All - in addition to purchasing the old (1953?) Greenie under the "Mysterious Headstock" thread, I went a little crazy and bought a 1993 510 this week as well. First 510 I've had, excited about the larger tables and improved carriage!
Only thing this unit needs is to replace one of the caster housings - the casting holding in the "kick-down" lever has broken. Here's what I'm talking about:
[ATTACH]6119[/ATTACH]
Does anyone know if this part is replaceable? I've scoured the Shopsmith site with no luck looking for parts for the caster pack.
Certainly appreciate any leads - thanks!
Matt
Caster parts
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Caster parts
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- Caster 002.jpg (72.28 KiB) Viewed 9820 times
Lost count, over a dozen rebuilt/repaired/restored
Personal equipment: 510 made in 1993, belt sander, jig saw, band saw, planer and jointer
Matt in GA
Personal equipment: 510 made in 1993, belt sander, jig saw, band saw, planer and jointer
Matt in GA
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recurvearcher
- Gold Member
- Posts: 159
- Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2008 2:06 am
The SS website does show that part under the numbers 514058(left hand) and 514059(right hand). They are 28.73 each. Here's the link http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/item ... =Find+Item. Pretty handy link to have to find parts by part number. Give them a call to verify if in stock or on back order.
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JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34643
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
You WILL find "LH" or "RH" on the inside of the casting.recurvearcher wrote:The SS website does show that part under the numbers 514058(left hand) and 514059(right hand). They are 28.73 each. Here's the link http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/item ... =Find+Item. Pretty handy link to have to find parts by part number. Give them a call to verify if in stock or on back order.
That 'socket' only provides a pivot for the camshaft. The two sides are held together by the tie rod and the ss legs.
You MAY be able to repair that one with jb-weld or by some other method.
It DOES support the SS entire weight(both sides) so any 'fix' needs to be strong in the vertical direction.
Only rarely does separate caster set parts appear on e-bay(but it has happened). They either languish or go too high!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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robinson46176
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:00 pm
- Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)
I react with a few thoughts just quickly. One is maybe putting a small "U" bolt around it and filling in between it and the shaft with some JB Weld. That way the U bolt would carry the load and the JB would just be a bearing surface. You could form the JB by slipping some aluminum foil over the end of the shaft and slipping it in place to fill the hole first.
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The second thought would be to have the shaft extended by about an inch with a flange by welding and boring the hole on through the housing.
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Both of these are "make do" repairs to bring the unit back in service and are hardly "restoration" type repairs. I realize that some would rather do without than make a less than perfect repair but most of those people have never been really poor...
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Another possibility might be to cut a bushing to fit on the shaft tight and boring the hole carefully out big enough to mount the sleeve in the hole.
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I have a neighbor who rebuilds boat propellers who could easily build that broken spot back up and finish it down to look original. His prop work is really beautiful but then again he makes about $100 an hour for doing it.
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The second thought would be to have the shaft extended by about an inch with a flange by welding and boring the hole on through the housing.
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Both of these are "make do" repairs to bring the unit back in service and are hardly "restoration" type repairs. I realize that some would rather do without than make a less than perfect repair but most of those people have never been really poor...
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Another possibility might be to cut a bushing to fit on the shaft tight and boring the hole carefully out big enough to mount the sleeve in the hole.
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I have a neighbor who rebuilds boat propellers who could easily build that broken spot back up and finish it down to look original. His prop work is really beautiful but then again he makes about $100 an hour for doing it.
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farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
Thanks! After following the link, I scratched my head on why I couldn't find it. Even put "Caster Bracket" under keyword search and this part number didn't appear. How did you know the part number?
Lost count, over a dozen rebuilt/repaired/restored
Personal equipment: 510 made in 1993, belt sander, jig saw, band saw, planer and jointer
Matt in GA
Personal equipment: 510 made in 1993, belt sander, jig saw, band saw, planer and jointer
Matt in GA
How about having it welded? Or check with Bill Mayo to see IF he has that part.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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recurvearcher
- Gold Member
- Posts: 159
- Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2008 2:06 am
I had an old caster assembly sheet that came with my scroll saw. It had an exploded view listing individual part numbers. The number for the right didn't work. The number for the left came up as the part with the new number. I just added a digit until the part for the right came up. I don't know of a web based parts list or data base with the exploded views. Maybe another member does?
Caster parts
Yes, I have plenty of the older caster parts. I just brought a 510 that has a screw from the outside that goes into the lifting rod at each end. First one I have seen. So I do not have any parts for this type of caster. I would assume that this is an upgraded/later set of retractable casters. Contact me off-line.beeg wrote:How about having it welded? Or check with Bill Mayo to see IF he has that part.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)