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Removing Paint
Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 4:55 pm
by nimrod
I'm not sure exactly what kind of paint that SS used in the early 60's (gold), but it is some outstanding stuff. I'm doing some repairs to a jointer, and having a heck of a time getting it cleaned off.
I've tried commercial paint stripper, which crinkled it a little bit in a few spots, but didn't actually remove it.
Sandblasting works, but it takes forever. Even after the stripper, it takes about 2 minutes to get a dime size spot down to bare cast iron. I did some other tools and car parts at the same time, so I know the nozzle was working. I didn't have any problems with those.
How do I remove this stuff?
Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 6:14 pm
by Bruce
If it's on that good, why remove it?

Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 9:06 am
by nimrod
There's a big ugly crack that needs welded.
Removing Paint
Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 9:36 am
by dusty
Can you accomplish a good weld without removing the paint?
It sounds like the original finish is a base you don't want to lose.
Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 9:42 am
by nimrod
Probably not. According to my welder, the whole thing has to go into an oven to pre-heat the iron so it doesn't crack more.
Removing Paint
Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:19 am
by dusty
I guess that's the price of doing it right.
Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 12:53 pm
by manvelar
I'll bet the pre-heating in the oven might remove a lot of the finish. After that, smooth it all out with a Sand-o-flex (google it).
Removing Paint
Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 12:57 pm
by billmayo
You stated that when sand blasting, about getting down to the cast iron. The few 60s Shopsmith I have worked on are all sheet metal and aluminium castings. Where is the crack in the Shopsmith. If it is a headstock, I would recommend buying another headstock from either jacobvb or ruggs59 on Ebay. I have brought from each seller. Yes, I had to have a couple of ears welded that holds the eccentric bushing. I was lucky to have a friend who is a aircraft welder that welds aluminium to do the job for $25.00 on each headstock.
I use a big 8" industrial 1 HP grinder that I put a 8" steel wire brush on the long shaft and a brass wire brush on the short end. The steel wire brush will actually remove paint plus aluminium if held too long in a spot. I use the brass one to remove corrosion and polish the aluminium surfaces. It takes about a hour to do a headstock including using a 1/2" wire brush, used for cleaning around values pockets in a engine head, to clean the little pockets of paint that the 8" did not get. A 6" wire brush took too long for me and not enought power. A 6" may work for you if you have the time and patience.
Bill Mayo
nimrod wrote:I'm not sure exactly what kind of paint that SS used in the early 60's (gold), but it is some outstanding stuff. I'm doing some repairs to a jointer, and having a heck of a time getting it cleaned off.
I've tried commercial paint stripper, which crinkled it a little bit in a few spots, but didn't actually remove it.
Sandblasting works, but it takes forever. Even after the stripper, it takes about 2 minutes to get a dime size spot down to bare cast iron. I did some other tools and car parts at the same time, so I know the nozzle was working. I didn't have any problems with those.
How do I remove this stuff?
Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 2:29 pm
by nimrod
This is on a jointer, not the headstock. Sorry if I wasn't clear on that.
I'd really like to know what kind of paint was originally used, so I can paint everything I own with it. This stuff is unbelievable.
Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 8:53 pm
by Bruce
It was probably powder-coated. There are home kits available now. There was a recent article describing the process in one of the woodworking mags. I think it was either Popular Woodworking or Woodworker's Journal.