Quill play
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Maybe I'm displaying my ignorance - but the spline should be only one piece. Just where is this "expansion pin"? There are a couple of clips, but think there should be no pin. Now I'm no expert at disassembly of the quill (in fact you really know more than I do) but when referring to the pictures in other posts showing a disassembled quill and a press (while exchanging bearings) The spindle (62) looks to be in one piece. It's hard to understand that it is two pieces held together with a pin. Was this SS previously owned?
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Charlese,
Yes the spindle (62) is in 2 pieces.
One piece corresponds to the spindle end proper with two steps to lodge the 2 ball bearings. The two bearings are of different sizes. The biggest being the one that is seen at the mouth of the quill behind the spindle knob (65).
To change the bearings you have to remove the spindle knob (65) and then extract the whole spindle assembly (62) out through the spindle end by driving the assembly from the splined end.
After you have removed the spindle assembly (62) the largest bearing can be extracted easily from the spindle end. To remove the smaller bearing (the one closest to the splined part of the shaft, you first have to extract an elastic pin that holds the splined end lodged in a cavity of the spindle end through the center of the small bearing. Once this elastic pin is extracted the two pieces come apart and then you can extract the smaller bearing.
The spindle therefore is made up of 5 components: a splined shaft, the spindle end, an elastic pin and 2 ball bearings.
I spoke with SS and they confirmed this assembly but also informed me that presently the spindle is one piece. Better said, the supplier only provides SS with a Quill assembly which includes the spindle assembly, the quill and the spindle knob (59 to 66). It does not include (57) the drive and ring assembly, which is supplied with the drive sleeve assembly (56).
So when your bearings are shot for any reason you have to change the whole quill. (here in Canada the price to change bearings was $33.00, a whole quill is $126.00 , both plus taxes).
One would imagine that if the spline is changed you would want to also change the drive (57) but this is purchased separately with the drive sleeve assembly ($90).
The model I have was manufactured in 1991. Till recently this is the way the spindle was assembled I understand.
Yes the spindle (62) is in 2 pieces.
One piece corresponds to the spindle end proper with two steps to lodge the 2 ball bearings. The two bearings are of different sizes. The biggest being the one that is seen at the mouth of the quill behind the spindle knob (65).
To change the bearings you have to remove the spindle knob (65) and then extract the whole spindle assembly (62) out through the spindle end by driving the assembly from the splined end.
After you have removed the spindle assembly (62) the largest bearing can be extracted easily from the spindle end. To remove the smaller bearing (the one closest to the splined part of the shaft, you first have to extract an elastic pin that holds the splined end lodged in a cavity of the spindle end through the center of the small bearing. Once this elastic pin is extracted the two pieces come apart and then you can extract the smaller bearing.
The spindle therefore is made up of 5 components: a splined shaft, the spindle end, an elastic pin and 2 ball bearings.
I spoke with SS and they confirmed this assembly but also informed me that presently the spindle is one piece. Better said, the supplier only provides SS with a Quill assembly which includes the spindle assembly, the quill and the spindle knob (59 to 66). It does not include (57) the drive and ring assembly, which is supplied with the drive sleeve assembly (56).
So when your bearings are shot for any reason you have to change the whole quill. (here in Canada the price to change bearings was $33.00, a whole quill is $126.00 , both plus taxes).
One would imagine that if the spline is changed you would want to also change the drive (57) but this is purchased separately with the drive sleeve assembly ($90).
The model I have was manufactured in 1991. Till recently this is the way the spindle was assembled I understand.
Wow! If I got this straight - the spindle used to be two pieces, held together by a plastic pin - now it is one piece. I can safely say, I don't want to take mine apart! Thanks for the info!
No relation to Kieth Wright (that I know of) but my Father was born (1898)and grew up in Dayton, OH. Lived down the street from the Wright Bro's. bike shop. My Grandfather's name was Orville. (He was a music prof at Ohio Wesleyan. Also had an Uncle named Orville. But no relation to those of flying fame. Closest we came was when Grandmother flew from Dayton to Chicago to visit and the Chicago Tribune went crazy with a front page story that Mrs. Orville Wright takes her first plane ride to visit family. (Still a small world!)
No relation to Kieth Wright (that I know of) but my Father was born (1898)and grew up in Dayton, OH. Lived down the street from the Wright Bro's. bike shop. My Grandfather's name was Orville. (He was a music prof at Ohio Wesleyan. Also had an Uncle named Orville. But no relation to those of flying fame. Closest we came was when Grandmother flew from Dayton to Chicago to visit and the Chicago Tribune went crazy with a front page story that Mrs. Orville Wright takes her first plane ride to visit family. (Still a small world!)
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Hi,
I'm just checking back in after a couple of weeks of, gee if I were still working it would be vacation but you can't really take a vacation from being retired????
Anyway could you get a couple of pictures of this assembly and send them to me?
I have a place on yahoo where I post pictures and would like your permission to post them there. I have a couple of shots already but since this was a shocker to me I'd like to document it.
I have a single bearing quill apart and in the process of replacing the bearing and was going to show the insides of that too (my old one that I replaced with the two bearing type, a back-up quill so to speak).
Take a look at:
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/elv60504@sbcglobal.net/album/576460762316215999
and see what I have so far. If we could see the details of this two piece design it would be great.
If it doesn't work out for you then thats fine too.
Ed
I'm just checking back in after a couple of weeks of, gee if I were still working it would be vacation but you can't really take a vacation from being retired????
Anyway could you get a couple of pictures of this assembly and send them to me?
I have a place on yahoo where I post pictures and would like your permission to post them there. I have a couple of shots already but since this was a shocker to me I'd like to document it.
I have a single bearing quill apart and in the process of replacing the bearing and was going to show the insides of that too (my old one that I replaced with the two bearing type, a back-up quill so to speak).
Take a look at:
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/elv60504@sbcglobal.net/album/576460762316215999
and see what I have so far. If we could see the details of this two piece design it would be great.
If it doesn't work out for you then thats fine too.
Ed
Reible,
You already have a photograph of what I am sharing. In fact I was going to refer you to your site because the illustration is there.
Look at the following pictures: DSCN4429, DSCN4430 and DSCN4431.
In all these photos you will notice an expansion pin that traverses the spindle about 1/4" from the smaller bearing.
To take the small bearing off you need to extract this pin since the spline end retains the bearing supported by this pin.
If you extract the pin you will see that the spline half inserts into the spindle half and can now be taken apart to allow the bearing to be extracted.
If the pin becomes loose or worn for any reason lag results, added to any that the driver and splines may allow.
You also have a two piece spindle like I do.
You cannot purchase a spindle alone nor the bearings to change them yourself. Instead SS sells the whole quill as a replacement part and you will not notice this construction of course.
If your bearings had been shot like mine you would have wanted to extract them and you would have discovered what I did.
In this case I would like SS to offer the option for each owner to either purchase the individual parts and play mechanic OR purchase the assembly as a whole replacement. Interesting also is the fact that unless you purchase a refit for older models, the driver of the spindle is sold as part of the driver assembly and not as a replaceable part (even though it is plastic and can wear out before the spindle spline does).
Marketing policies obviously vary from firm to firm.
You already have a photograph of what I am sharing. In fact I was going to refer you to your site because the illustration is there.
Look at the following pictures: DSCN4429, DSCN4430 and DSCN4431.
In all these photos you will notice an expansion pin that traverses the spindle about 1/4" from the smaller bearing.
To take the small bearing off you need to extract this pin since the spline end retains the bearing supported by this pin.
If you extract the pin you will see that the spline half inserts into the spindle half and can now be taken apart to allow the bearing to be extracted.
If the pin becomes loose or worn for any reason lag results, added to any that the driver and splines may allow.
You also have a two piece spindle like I do.
You cannot purchase a spindle alone nor the bearings to change them yourself. Instead SS sells the whole quill as a replacement part and you will not notice this construction of course.
If your bearings had been shot like mine you would have wanted to extract them and you would have discovered what I did.
In this case I would like SS to offer the option for each owner to either purchase the individual parts and play mechanic OR purchase the assembly as a whole replacement. Interesting also is the fact that unless you purchase a refit for older models, the driver of the spindle is sold as part of the driver assembly and not as a replaceable part (even though it is plastic and can wear out before the spindle spline does).
Marketing policies obviously vary from firm to firm.
J.C. - - Thanks for the education! Just reviewed Ed's pictures and could see the pin (this time) - Then reviewed the "Spindle Assembly Question" Thread (in General Woodworking by mandoboy 4/30/07). Nicks' post in this thread shows a quill without a pin in the 1st picture. I thought they were all like this. Thanks again for the education. I hope your problem is resolved soon.
Best Wishes!
Best Wishes!
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Charlese,
You are right. the photograph posted by Nick does not include a pin.
When I was told by SS that the spindle is one piece it is possible that they referred to a spindle of the kind Nick showed us.
Nevertheless, what surprises me is the case of the second bearing (not the one Nick shows and speaks about).
To change this second bearing it would seem to me way out of logic to extract the bearing sliding it all along the spline length. Very few if any extractors would reach this far.
Possibly both halves of the spindle are tight fit at the time the bearing is mounted which would explain why any change of such a bearing requires replacing the whole quill.
In my experience there are other more convenient ways to mount the spindle which would enable changing the bearings easily and enhance the operation of the SS. One such alternative would be to machine the spindle as one piece with the splines of a slightly larger diameter than the bearing mount (so it can be machined) and then slide a backup ring along the spindle till it leans against the spline ends. Then slide one bearing followed by a spreader tube and the second bearing. Both bearings could be of the same size.
Once this unit is assembled it could be inserted in the quill and retained with a ring (like 64). Any wear of the bearings could be resolved easily and economically. To enable quick solutions to normal wear and tear of components would greatly enhance the attractiveness of the SS, specially for those that live far from shops that can machine parts or offbeat for mail deliveries.
Downtime plays a very important role in the mind of the purchaser swaying his preference of any particular brand of machinery. We need to make the SS so user friendly that it becomes first choice when shopping for equipment.
The excellency of the design and workmanship of each SS I have seen and now operate is second to none. It is the minute that can destroy a reputation and I am all for caring for the dimes because the dollars will take care of themselves.
Presently my SS is dormant till I receive a new quill assembly and I am back to working with my old trustworthy equipment.
You are right. the photograph posted by Nick does not include a pin.
When I was told by SS that the spindle is one piece it is possible that they referred to a spindle of the kind Nick showed us.
Nevertheless, what surprises me is the case of the second bearing (not the one Nick shows and speaks about).
To change this second bearing it would seem to me way out of logic to extract the bearing sliding it all along the spline length. Very few if any extractors would reach this far.
Possibly both halves of the spindle are tight fit at the time the bearing is mounted which would explain why any change of such a bearing requires replacing the whole quill.
In my experience there are other more convenient ways to mount the spindle which would enable changing the bearings easily and enhance the operation of the SS. One such alternative would be to machine the spindle as one piece with the splines of a slightly larger diameter than the bearing mount (so it can be machined) and then slide a backup ring along the spindle till it leans against the spline ends. Then slide one bearing followed by a spreader tube and the second bearing. Both bearings could be of the same size.
Once this unit is assembled it could be inserted in the quill and retained with a ring (like 64). Any wear of the bearings could be resolved easily and economically. To enable quick solutions to normal wear and tear of components would greatly enhance the attractiveness of the SS, specially for those that live far from shops that can machine parts or offbeat for mail deliveries.
Downtime plays a very important role in the mind of the purchaser swaying his preference of any particular brand of machinery. We need to make the SS so user friendly that it becomes first choice when shopping for equipment.
The excellency of the design and workmanship of each SS I have seen and now operate is second to none. It is the minute that can destroy a reputation and I am all for caring for the dimes because the dollars will take care of themselves.
Presently my SS is dormant till I receive a new quill assembly and I am back to working with my old trustworthy equipment.
-
james.miller
- Gold Member
- Posts: 303
- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 2:16 pm
Just a few thoughts on quill bearings.
I purchased replacement bearings from the local Bearing Belt and Chain store. Just take the quill apart and remove the bearings, If you have access to a press use it, I used a metal vice closed loosely around the spindle to support the bearing race and a raw hide mallet and gently tapped the spindle out of the bearing. Be very careful that the spindle is going perfectly straight with the bearing and remember to catch the spindle before it hits the floor. If you use a press it won't take much pressure to remove them as they are a push fit and not an undersized press fit. A large arbor press should work, if you have access to a 10 ton hydraulic press, even better.
Install the new bearings by supporting them by their inner race and pressing or tapping them into place keeping everything square.
Jim in Tucson
I purchased replacement bearings from the local Bearing Belt and Chain store. Just take the quill apart and remove the bearings, If you have access to a press use it, I used a metal vice closed loosely around the spindle to support the bearing race and a raw hide mallet and gently tapped the spindle out of the bearing. Be very careful that the spindle is going perfectly straight with the bearing and remember to catch the spindle before it hits the floor. If you use a press it won't take much pressure to remove them as they are a push fit and not an undersized press fit. A large arbor press should work, if you have access to a 10 ton hydraulic press, even better.
Install the new bearings by supporting them by their inner race and pressing or tapping them into place keeping everything square.
Jim in Tucson