Shopsmith Forums

While learning to use my SS 510 I found some difficulty in regulating the main table to make common depth cuts with blades and dadoes.

In all cases it would mean to release the table height lock (34), raise or lower the table (23) and then apply the table height lock again. All this while checking the depth of cut, etc.

Looking for a quicker and more precise method to set the table height at known depths of cut with my blades and dadoes I made a simple jig of scrap wood to place around each of the table support tubes and then drop the table till it made contact simply tightening the table height lock.

I made a "U" shaped jig (could be square) to fit tightly around each of the table support tubes and then cut it to length so when compressed between the Carriage (35) and the table bar support the blade or dado protruded the desired depth.

Using a basic jig that set the blades or dadoes flush with the table top, it was then only a case of inserting different thickness shims (1/4", 3/8", etc.) to set any depth I required.

In the case of common repetitive cuts I simply made a jig for that depth of cut so as not to play with shims or inserts.

I made similar stops to quickly set the headstock on the way tubes to attach accessories or prepare for vertical drilling to allow for the most common positions.

I think that you have been most innovative in your attempt to resolve a need for "fine, repeatable depth-of-cut adjustments".

Shopsmith, as they so often do, has also seen the need and provided a fine solution. Please refer to the Accessory Catalog for a description of the Adjustable Stop Collar, part number 555937.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... collar.htm

Can you post a pic or two jcbrowne?

Will get down to pictures as soon as I have the next break in my real work.

Here are some photos of the jigs I made to quickly set the table height for a particular blade. (you need to make different jigs for different blades if they are not all the exact same diameter. The same with dado blades).

In one you can see the jigs for 1/2", 1", 2" 1nd 3 1/2" protrusion of the blade.
One shows you how the jig is set under the table, and the third photo shows the jig and a 1/2" plywood on the table top so you can see how it works.

I used my adjustable support roller to hold the plywood down against the blade. It is an old car jack with a roller attached to the top. I can regulate the roller height micrometrically (Ha, Ha) and of course can load half a ton. Very handy when I want to change the table height and quickly adjust the roller height for the task.

Thanks! I wonder how many times in the last 50 years I've set the SS table for a 1/4" cut? I'll certain make two, one from 1/4" cut with the standard (10") blade and one for a 1/4" cut with my 1/4" dado blade (8").

jcbrowne wrote:"Here are some photos of the jigs I made to quickly set the table height for a particular blade. (you need to make different jigs for different blades if they are not all the exact same diameter. The same with dado blades). ..".

This is actually brilliant, J.C.!! At first I didn't see the value, as I had become so accustomed using the adjustable collar. The collar is still very useful for fine adjustments when drilling, routing, and setting fine adjustments other than "spacers".

BUT!! for quick setups for normal operations, your invention is invaluable! I put it in the same category as the adjustable stop collar! THANKS FOR SHARING!

It appears to me that the 3 1/2" block is smaller than the 1/2" one?