Rust Removal Part 1

[horologist]

My perception is that Evaporust is good with lightly rusted(even that which is pitted) and electrolysis is good for larger more heavily rusted items. The electrolysis is much cheaper, the 'electrolyte' is completely reusable(non consumed in the process) and very inexpensive to begin with. The electrolysis is self limiting(only alters the rust and 'stops' when there is no more). The evaporust is similarly self limiting.

Both procedures leave a slight discoloration(blox) and are quick to begin rerusting immediately.

The electrolysis create considerable 'gunk' which can safely be disposed of in just about any manner. It is one of the iron oxides and is non harmful environmentally.

The electrolysis does simultaneously produce both hydrogen and oxygen so care must be taken to provide sufficient venting of those 'products' as they can become an explosive mixture.

JPG,
I agree that electrolysis has some advantages. One reason for my experiment was to test the claim that ER doesn't harm other materials. Periodically I run into rusty clock movements and am concerned the electrolysis would hurt the brass.

You apparently also have to be careful to avoid usoing stainless steel as your anode. Rumour has it that it can release toxic chromium compounds into the solution. I believe I have forgotten more chemistry than I ever learned so I will leave this part of the discussion to those who have done better at retaining this knowledge.

I do have a rusty jointer to clean up and will try to get to part 2 of my rust removal experiments in a couple weeks.

Troy

[horologist]

Evapo-Rust claims to be environmentally friendly as well. And I have had great success using it on HEAVILY rusted items. Remember this drill chuck?


After soaking about 24 hours in Evapo-Rust:


But I would absolutely concur that electrolysis is better suited for larger items (due to the cost of the Evapo-Rust and having to submerge the part).

Heath,

Thanks, I had forgotten about that photo. You and Mike will have to thrash out who will win the title of Rust Removal King. I give up!:D

Troy

[JPG]

Heath,

Thanks, I had forgotten about that photo. You and Mike will have to thrash out who will win the title of Rust Removal King. I give up!:D

Troy

Heath for Drill Chucks!

Mike for Way/bench Tubes.

[heathicus]

Mike's work on those tubes is truly inspirational. But, heck, so is his work on everything else!

[foxtrapper]

JPG,
I agree that electrolysis has some advantages. One reason for my experiment was to test the claim that ER doesn't harm other materials. Periodically I run into rusty clock movements and am concerned the electrolysis would hurt the brass.

It hasn't in my experience. Acid dips have though. Brass copper and solder were all unaffected by the electrolysis.

Stainless in the anode will not come off during rust removal. It can if you reverse the electrical connections, such as what you will often times do to clean the anode (when it's crudy, the system doesn't work as well). The release of hexavalent chrome into the solution is minute and does not pose a threat while in the water. It's when it is bubbled up in the foam and released to the air that it creates a danger. You mitigate the danger with air flow over the container and away from your face.

[rdubbs]

But I would absolutely concur that electrolysis is better suited for larger items (due to the cost of the Evapo-Rust and having to submerge the part).

I've never used electrolysis, but I did use Evapo-Rust to remove rust I stupidly let build up on the tables of my Shopsmith jointer. I borrowed a long shallow tray from school (I teach middle school math/science), and placed the jointer top down in the solution. a day later I was amazed at the transformation. I've kept the jointer in good shape ever since. Evapo-Rust works wonders!