Rust Removal Part 1

[horologist]

After reading the reviews I bought a gallon of Evapo Rust at the local HF and this weekend I tried it out. I had been planning on setting up a tank to remove rust using electrolysis but this was much easier. I do plan on trying electrolysis and that will be Part 2.

To start I put...
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into a small Rubbermaid container with some ER and floated it in my ultrasonic tank. After an hour they looked like...
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The pliers were covered with an odd gray film. A little gentle wire brushing and I had...
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Encouraged I put...
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along with 50 or so small files and other tools into a larger Rubbermaid container. This container was too large to fit in the tank so I let it sit on the bench for an hour or so. (The ultrasonic tank doesn't seem to make any difference anyway.) Many of the tools had that odd film, some had a greenish film. Sorry no photo.
I rinsed off the ER and started cleaning the tools with the wire wheel. By the time I got to the end they were rusting already. The bottle claims it won't hurt non metallic objects. A couple of the tools had plastic handles and one of the files, to my shame, an ebony handle.

Fortunately as you can see, a coat of wiping varnish and the handle was good as new.
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The slip joint in the top of the saw frame had rusted solid. The ER took care of the rust and freed the joint.

In general I'm pretty impressed with the stuff, it is certainly the most effective and least destructive rust removal compound I have ever used. Although I don't think I would leave your items in any longer than necessary. It does leave an odd surface finish that appears to get worse with time.

Troy

[billmayo]

I also got a gallon of Evapo-Rust at HF last month. I have been using it to clean several hundred pounds of very rusty tools and sockets that was in a very large tool box and cabinet that I brought cheap. The tool box and cabinet appears to have been left open outside in the rain for several weeks. I soak the tools in a small pail of Evapo-Rust for a few days before removing any tool. I wash the Evapo-Rust off each tool as I remove it and blow dry the tool. Then using a small paint brush, coat the tool with a light coat of PeneTrol (Lowes). This coating takes several weeks to really dry but no tool has rusted in the past several months where I did this coating.

Evapo-Rust is the best rust removal solution I have found for smaller items. I find the PeneTrol does a nice job of keeping the 510 table rails from rusting once they are cleaned.

[JPG]

I also got a gallon of Evapo-Rust at HF last month. I have been using it to clean several hundred pounds of very rusty tools and sockets that was in a very large tool box and cabinet that I brought cheap. The tool box and cabinet appears to have been left open outside in the rain for several weeks. I soak the tools in a small pail of Evapo-Rust for a few days before removing any tool. I wash the Evapo-Rust off each tool as I remove it and blow dry the tool. Then using a small paint brush, coat the tool with a light coat of PeneTrol (Lowes). This coating takes several weeks to really dry but no tool has rusted in the past several months where I did this coating.

Evapo-Rust is the best rust removal solution I have found for smaller items. I find the PeneTrol does a nice job of keeping the 510 table rails from rusting once they are cleaned.

The evaporust will become depleted as used. Something is being consumed. Items left in a thin evaporust film will acquire a black oxide finish(thin). I believe the gray etc film referred to is a thin blkox layer. Other metals in tool steel allow may cause other colors????

As mentioned elsewhere, It works great on way/bench tubes!!(pvc drain pipe procedure)

BTW Is 'Penetrol' what Mr. White has been applying to some of his 'stuff'? It 'dries' slow!

[heathicus]

Thanks for the post, horologist. I'm glad the Evapo-Rust worked out for you. Reviews I read of it stated that it could be re-used until the liquid turns black. I've had success using it on lightly rusted items (like those in your first picture) even after it turns black - but the black film/residue becomes worse.

Flash rusting after rinsing off the Evapo-Rust is something to watch out for too. I've heard that after removing the part from the Evapo-Rust and cleaning it off, you can re-dip it and that will help protect it from rusting for a while until you can get back to it.

As big of a fan as I am of Evapo-Rust, I'd still recommend you try electrolysis. I think some parts are more suited for electrolysis and some are more suited for Evapo-Rust, but with those two options you can easily and safely remove rust from just about anything.

[charlese]

Thanks Troy!:D Super report on the use of Evapo Rust especially with your photos. Interesting pliers on the left in the first couple pics.

[JPG]

Thanks for the post, horologist. I'm glad the Evapo-Rust worked out for you. Reviews I read of it stated that it could be re-used until the liquid turns black. I've had success using it on lightly rusted items (like those in your first picture) even after it turns black - but the black film/residue becomes worse.

Flash rusting after rinsing off the Evapo-Rust is something to watch out for too. I've heard that after removing the part from the Evapo-Rust and cleaning it off, you can re-dip it and that will help protect it from rusting for a while until you can get back to it.

As big of a fan as I am of Evapo-Rust, I'd still recommend you try electrolysis. I think some parts are more suited for electrolysis and some are more suited for Evapo-Rust, but with those two options you can easily and safely remove rust from just about anything.

My perception is that Evaporust is good with lightly rusted(even that which is pitted) and electrolysis is good for larger more heavily rusted items. The electrolysis is much cheaper, the 'electrolyte' is completely reusable(non consumed in the process) and very inexpensive to begin with. The electrolysis is self limiting(only alters the rust and 'stops' when there is no more). The evaporust is similarly self limiting.

Both procedures leave a slight discoloration(blox) and are quick to begin rerusting immediately.

The electrolysis create considerable 'gunk' which can safely be disposed of in just about any manner. It is one of the iron oxides and is non harmful environmentally.

The electrolysis does simultaneously produce both hydrogen and oxygen so care must be taken to provide sufficient venting of those 'products' as they can become an explosive mixture.

[heathicus]

Evapo-Rust claims to be environmentally friendly as well. And I have had great success using it on HEAVILY rusted items. Remember this drill chuck?

Before:


After soaking about 24 hours in Evapo-Rust:


But I would absolutely concur that electrolysis is better suited for larger items (due to the cost of the Evapo-Rust and having to submerge the part).

[mickyd]

I just love seeing that photo!! I am still amazed each time I see it.

[osx-addict]

BTW Is 'Penetrol' what Mr. White has been applying to some of his 'stuff'? It 'dries' slow!

Penetrol is a paint additive -- some info can be found here.. I think we've discussed it's uses here in the distant past if I recall.. I've got a can of it and have used it on several tools as I recall..

[horologist]

Thanks Troy!:D Super report on the use of Evapo Rust especially with your photos. Interesting pliers on the left in the first couple pics.

Chuck,
Some time when I get a little more time I will try to identify what those pliers are for. I am an incurable tool junkie and as a member of the National Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC) I can attend Regionals (large shows of all things horological) and scour the bargain boxes. Tools with lots of sex appeal, like wheel cutting engines bring the big bucks but most tool collectors have little interest in pliers, hammers, files, etc. I have quite a collection of odd pliers and assorted hand tools, some have come in quite handy. I have also decided that you can't have too many small files.
Many of the tool I buy are from the late 19th to early 20th century and are of a wider variety and higher quality than the tools that are currently available to the trade.

Troy