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Jerry's 1955 "Greenie" Serial No. 293506
Posted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 11:43 am
by bluekayak
Here are some pictures from the Greenie that I picked up last weekend. Thanks everyone for your tips on how to transport it. This Shopsmith was the one on eBay with the thread name, "Great deal, wished I lived closer!" Thanks buck50mg for starting that thread.
Several members had suggestions for loading it, and there were quite helpful.
My son and I loaded it into the mini van.
Lots of room.
Here is the serial number (293506):
I think Mike had some questions about the Warning decal for the speed control on the beautiful restoration of his Greenie. Here is a picture of my decal.
I was so concerned about the rust that I almost did not bid. However, Mike and all of you other restorers gave me hope. I'll post some pictures of the rust clean up in a minute.
Cleaning up the tubes
Posted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 12:00 pm
by bluekayak
Here it is, safely in our basement. The rust on the lower tubes really concerned me, and the upper tubes had some light rust.
Thinking about cleaning up the rust took more time than the actual cleaning and polishing. I started with WD-40, a razor blade, and a brass brush (hand powered). After about a 1/2 hour, there was not much to show for my efforts.
I sprayed the tubes with WD-40 and let them sit for a couple of nights so I could ponder my next rust removal option. Electrolysis looked promising, but I did not want to do that in the basement. I also was not real keen on taking the machine apart without a manual.
Tools for the next phase:
Jerry Floren
St. Peter, Minnesota
Cleaning the front tube
Posted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 12:03 pm
by bluekayak
I'd put a line of Brasso on the tube and smooth it out with the drill. Then turn on the drill and let it do the work. Note the time/date sequence in the next series of photos.
This section only took about eight minutes to remove the rust. On to the back tubes.
Jerry Floren
St. Peter, Minnesota
Rust removal back tubes
Posted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 12:12 pm
by bluekayak
Cleaning up the back tube.
A final polishing with a rag to clean up the Brasso.
I had about 1/2 of the front tube cleaned when I started taking the pictures. It only took about one hour to finish up with the rest of the rust removal on the lower tubes. It would have been much easier if I would have put the Shopsmith into the vertical, drill press position right from the start.
I wish I would have done this a little more scientifically. Brush only. Brush with WD-40 sprayed on the day before. Brush with only Brasso. Finally, the way I did it for the whole project. Spray on WD-40 a couple of days before then use the brush and the Brasso.
The Weiler brush is coarse, and it is quite aggressive. I tried it on a corner of an aluminum table with the Brasso and felt it left too many scratch marks. Weiler makes a fine brush, and I will get one of those next time I have a chance.
Thanks everyone for all the tips on how to work on a project like this. I never would have tried this without this forum.
Jerry Floren
St. Peter, Minnesota
Posted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 1:12 pm
by paul269
thanks for the photos, I enjoy seeing what others are doing and what methods work. I hope to see more.
Posted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 1:27 pm
by mickyd
VERY respectable job on those tubes bluekayak (Jerry??). They look great! You've added a new method (at least I haven't seen it since being on this site). Describe the cup brush you used.
Do you plan on disassembling and inspecting / lubing the headstock components? It's a good idea if you feel comfortable. The sawdust sessions on the ShopSmith site guide you through the process.
PM your address to me and I send you a new caution label.
Congrats on your purchase. I love seeing the Greenie's in good hands.
Is your forum name too simple to have to explain or is there a hidden interpretation?
Cup Brush Description
Posted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 1:50 pm
by bluekayak
I purchased the brush at Menards for $6.98. The package says, 3" Weiler Vortec Abrasive Nylon Cup Brush coarse."
I'm pretty sure the tubes on this Shopsmith were not as bad as the ones you have restored. However, I was surprised at how quickly the rust removal went using this brush. I'm going to get some similar tools that are fine instead of coarse and see how they work on the aluminum.
Your work on your Greenie and the ER-10 inspired me to purchase this machine. However, I know that I won't be taking the restoration to your exacting standards. Thanks for the tip to check out the Shopsmith site on the headstock components. I'll be doing that soon.
I use "Blue Kayak" on a fishing forum, and decided to stay with it.
Jerry Floren
St. Peter, Minnesota
Posted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 2:05 pm
by mickyd
You mention using the fine brush for the aluminum. Do you mean the painted aluminum parts or the aluminum knobs / dials etc.? If your talking about the painted aluminum, what are you plans after paint is removed?
The cosmetic restoration means little. It only matters to you so take it to the level you want to see it at. It's beautiful the way it is. I took mine all the way only because........it was fun. I like restoring stuff.
Posted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 2:31 pm
by JPG
bluekayak wrote: . . .
Jerry Floren
St. Peter, Minnesota
WAX THEM - Johnson's paste wax(original formula) upc - 46500 00202).
Looking good! Keep it up!
I am going to suggest this b4 Mike jumps all over you for not doing it(I am surprised he has not already done so!).
Put 'St. Peter, Mn' in yer profile!!!]HIM [/B]if ya do not know how!:D
Posted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 4:21 pm
by judaspre1982
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