Greetings and question

riffplayer · Post by **riffplayer** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 12:39 pm

I recently purchased a "Greenie" that I believe dates back to 1953 (I checked the serial number on the website awhile ago, but I don't have the serial number on hand right now).

I have been doing a bit of work on it. So far I've replaced the motor bearings and cleaned and lubed every other part inside the headstock so everything appears to be working well. I am waiting for a new power cord and drive belt from the company which I hope to install sometime later next week.

I noticed a problem on my control sheave. The collar portion of the sheave has a hairline crack running from the bearing toward the part of the sheave that contacts the belt. I am concerned that this crack will get larger and larger with usage, but I really can't afford a new control sheave at this point.

I'm wondering if there is any way to reinforce this part. I'm thinking about putting two small hose clamps on the collar with the screws opposite each other to maintain balance. Will this be OK? My other thought is to wrap the collar with a wire and use epoxy to hold. This method might give me strength without anything sticking out from the collar, but I'm not sure about being able to keep it tight.

My other question is in regards to saw guards - mine doesn't have any. Are there any other options other than the $184 ones that shopsmith is selling? This seems awful steep for a set of guards!

I'm excited about using this tool soon!

nuhobby · Post by **nuhobby** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 1:37 pm

I suspect Bill Mayo will chime in shortly with a great answer.

I might mention for the following tinkerer:
http://www.shopmachineadventures.com/in ... &Itemid=54
He had had a few control-sheave failures over his 45 years of Shopsmithing. In the last installment he changed the bearing on his control sheave to something different. Also, due to the original sheave bearing's failure, his control sheave had a crack of a roughly circular shape between the 'keyed barrel' and the 'conical sheave'. He epoxied that and it has been working ever since. He also added dual (for balance reasons) grease zerks to the 'keyed barrel' for (1) bearing lubrication and (the other) balance.

For a budget repair you may do just fine as you've proposed. If the diameter clearance between sheave and idler shaft is very large, you'll hear more vibrations than usual. Sounds like you'll keep a close eye on it until you have the opportunity to get a new sheave. Good luck!

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 3:53 pm

nuhobby wrote:I suspect Bill Mayo will chime in shortly with a great answer.

I might mention for the following tinkerer:
http://www.shopmachineadventures.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=54

.....

nuhobby....where do you go within that link for info? Are you talking about the volumes that they sell?

navycop · Post by **navycop** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 4:02 pm

I can not help you w/a greenie. I have the Mark 5. I just wanted to welcome you to this forum and the vast knowledge base we have. I take it your forum name has to do with playing the guitar?
Welcome and Have a Happy Thanksgiving.

nuhobby · Post by **nuhobby** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 4:44 pm

mickyd wrote:nuhobby....where do you go within that link for info? Are you talking about the volumes that they sell?

Mike, yes, I am paraphrasing part of the fellow's article in the 4th Home Shop Machinist magazine cited there. The article itself is not visible on line. I bought those back-issues recently out of curiosity.

P.S. Nice Christmas colors!

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 5:39 pm

nuhobby wrote:I suspect Bill Mayo will chime in shortly with a great answer.

I might mention for the following tinkerer:
http://www.shopmachineadventures.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=54
He had had a few control-sheave failures over his 45 years of Shopsmithing. In the last installment he changed the bearing on his control sheave to something different. Also, due to the original sheave bearing's failure, his control sheave had a crack of a roughly circular shape between the 'keyed barrel' and the 'conical sheave'. He epoxied that and it has been working ever since. He also added dual (for balance reasons) grease zerks to the 'keyed barrel' for (1) bearing lubrication and (the other) balance.

For a budget repair you may do just fine as you've proposed. If the diameter clearance between sheave and idler shaft is very large, you'll hear more vibrations than usual. Sounds like you'll keep a close eye on it until you have the opportunity to get a new sheave. Good luck!

How many issues of this magazine are required to have the entire set on the Shopsmith redesign.

It seems that there are six and yet #4(Nov/Dec 2007) seems to close out the article.

nuhobby · Post by **nuhobby** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 6:57 pm

As far as I know, Prof. Bailey put 4 installments in Home Shop Machinist.

Two more .pdf installments are listed on his web-site for sale outside the magazine, yet they do not yet get to matters such as his beefed-up Quill spindle. I'm not sure how many in total he will do.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 7:28 pm

nuhobby wrote:As far as I know, Prof. Bailey put 4 installments in Home Shop Machinist.

Two more .pdf installments are listed on his web-site for sale outside the magazine, yet they do not yet get to matters such as his beefed-up Quill spindle. I'm not sure how many in total he will do.

Thank you for the info.

I have three of the four magazine editions. I was never able to find the first one.

nuhobby · Post by **nuhobby** » Tue Nov 24, 2009 4:12 am

riffplayer wrote: My other question is in regards to saw guards - mine doesn't have any. Are there any other options other than the $184 ones that shopsmith is selling? This seems awful steep for a set of guards!

Back to your question on guards:

Sometimes you can find upper and lower metal guards in the market. Here are some of the oldest ones:
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=4518
These just use the Quill for mounting.

The plastic ones also show up occasionally. If you get a set you'll need to be sure you have the dovetail mounting block which attaches with screws to the rear-leg casting of the table tie-bar.

riffplayer · Post by **riffplayer** » Tue Nov 24, 2009 11:27 am

I have put two hose clamps onto the control sheave. Looks like it will work - at least there seems plenty of clearance so they won't contact the speed control. I'll have to wait until I can get the motor hooked up to see if there is any wobble.

I checked my serial number on my Mark V and it is 276974 which, if I'm reading the list correctly, dates this unit to 1954 - the first year for the Mark V.

Someone asked about my screen name - yes, I am a guitar player. It is a dream to someday build my own guitar. I don't even care if it sounds great - just to hang it on a wall would be cool. Someday I'll work on that dream but for now I just need to get some furniture built for my kids!