Screw extractor - Pilot hole size and which size extractor to use

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 2:30 pm

I am having trouble locating on-line info on proper screw extractor procedure regarding what size pilot hole to drill and which size extractor to use on given size fasteners. I have #8 and #10 broken screws to remove. I can't locate the instruction that came with my extractor set. The style I have is like this and I have sizes 1 thru 5.

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 2:34 pm

For a #1 the hole size is 5/64.

johnmccrossen · Post by **johnmccrossen** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 2:47 pm

Scroll down the catalogue page to see the drill sizes for your extractors.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/vi ... tPage=2983

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 3:22 pm

beeg wrote:For a #1 the hole size is 5/64.

johnmccrossen wrote:Scroll down the catalogue page to see the drill sizes for your extractors.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/viewCatalogPDF.shtml?browserCompatable=true&adobeCompatable=true&toolbar=true&CatPage=2983

I hope I am not making a mountain out of a mole hill here but you guys sure these numbers apply to spiral fluted style similar to the ones I have...(long gradual spiral vs. the steep one shown on the catalog page?)

Where you from John....catalogue?:D

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 3:50 pm

That size is what mine says to use.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 4:40 pm

:DJohn is from the olde school! Its a generational thingie. Like miter and mitre...

As far as the bit size is concerned. it needs to be big enough for the extracter to get a good bite, but not so big as to get into the hole threads.

WHY is a Bolt Expert asking this question? Maybe yours do not break or corrode? Yeah right!

The olde timey way was to drill it out and chase what is left with a tap. It still works, but does require accurate drill bit positioning!:eek:

If you have an acetylene cutting torch, there is a much quicker way!;)

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 6:09 pm

JPG40504 wrote::DJohn is from the olde school! Its a generational thingie. Like miter and mitre...
......
WHY is a Bolt Expert asking this question? Maybe yours do not break or corrode? Yeah right!

.......

Does the dental hygienist do the extractions? Does the structural design engineer set the charges for demolition? Is the tightrope walker versed in disassembly of the rigging and high wire platform?

Need I go on??

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 6:47 pm

mickyd wrote:Does the dental hygienist do the extractions? Does the structural design engineer set the charges for demolition? Is the tightrope walker versed in disassembly of the rigging and high wire platform?

Need I go on??

If I were a tight wire walker, I would be very involved in all aspects of my 'rigging'! Point made re other 'professions'. FWIW the demolition guru better have an expert knowledge of structural engineering if implosion is involved!

johnmccrossen · Post by **johnmccrossen** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 8:31 pm

mickyd, It seems my fingers forgot to stop after the "g" in catalog. Anyway, your reference link "here" shows a Westward #1, part number 2RUL8. If you scroll over to the "Bosch" column and check the specs on those, they are listed as "Vermont-American" brand. Maybe these are more like what you are referring to.

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Tue Dec 01, 2009 1:24 am

I sure wish they provided a maximum recommended torque to safely apply to those extractors. On my #8 (.164") screws, I used the #2 extractor with a 7/64" (.109") pre-drill. #2 extractor covers a screw range of 5/32" - 7/32" (.156" - .219") (screw sizes #8 [.164"] thru #12 [.216"]).

The broken fasteners wouldn't budge and I was hesitant to snap the extractor. Then I'd need to get a screw extractor extractor!!!:p I timidly applied heat with a propane torch but that didn't help.

Any suggestions?