Quill bearing question

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hobbydad
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Quill bearing question

Post by hobbydad »

I have found that I have considerable runout, and I am trying to determine the cause. I have removed the quill and am working on disassembling it, but I cannot get the shaft out of the quill housing. It will move about an inch in (as in toward the drive sleeve), then stops.

Here is my question. The shaft is moving inside of the bearing inner race and the bearing is stationary. Is this normal, or should the bearing stay with the shaft?

Thanks.

Loren
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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »

Loren - On both my old Greenie and ER, the bearings are pressed on to the shaft. The Greenie with the single bearing doesn't need a bearing puller to remove the shaft from the quill (see attached) but my ER with the double bearing does, as show in this post. Wait for verification from others to make sure on your unit. My guess is you have the double bearing quill and thus need force (via puller or hammer) to remove the shaft.
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Mike
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

hobbydad wrote:I have found that I have considerable runout, and I am trying to determine the cause. I have removed the quill and am working on disassembling it, but I cannot get the shaft out of the quill housing. It will move about an inch in (as in toward the drive sleeve), then stops.

Here is my question. The shaft is moving inside of the bearing inner race and the bearing is stationary. Is this normal, or should the bearing stay with the shaft?

Thanks.

Loren

Question one - What model are you working on? Single bearing Mark 5/V two bearing Mark V or a model 10???

Question two - Have you removed the retaining ring?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
hobbydad
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Post by hobbydad »

mickyd wrote:..The Greenie with the single bearing doesn't need a bearing puller to remove the shaft from the quill...
Mike,

Thanks for the info. I had already identified my quill as the single-bearing species, so I went ahead and kept fiddling with it. I was able to get the whole shaft out, bearing and all. The bearing slides fairly easily along the shaft until it reaches where the shaft is chewed up a bit from the retaining collar set screw. I'm hesitant to use force to remove it.

There was a LOT of fine brown sawdust that came out while I was working on the shaft. I think the space between the bearing and the washer (spacer? the thing farther toward the drive sleeve end) was completely filled with it.

Now that I have the whole thing apart, what should I look for to determine the cause of the runout? I was hoping to roll the shaft on my bench to make sure it wasn't bent, but I can't do that unless I can remove the bearing and washer/spacer. The bearing seems to have play in it between the inner race and the middle of the bearing.

JPG, I'm working on a laptop that is missing the 'e' and 'd' keys, so I took forever typing my post and you replied in the meantime. I have a Mark V with a single bearing quill and had removed the retaining ring and the washer behind it. Thanks for the reply.

Loren
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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »

hobbydad wrote:...
Now that I have the whole thing apart, what should I look for to determine the cause of the runout? I was hoping to roll the shaft on my bench to make sure it wasn't bent, but I can't do that unless I can remove the bearing and washer/spacer. The bearing seems to have play in it between the inner race and the middle of the bearing.

...
Any reason to think the shaft somehow got bent? Was the runout OK "before"? How much runout are you estimating you had?

It would take a noticeable incident to bend that shaft. If you can feel play up and down (radially), the bearing is NG.
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hobbydad
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Post by hobbydad »

I got the SS used so I don't know the full history. I didn't know where to start checking, so I'm looking at everything.

With the sanding disc installed, I would get about 3/64" of lateral movement at the edge of the disc. I first noticed the problem when I tried to make a 3/4" dado, and it came out about 1/16" oversize.

I would like to see how the SS runs/sounds without the quill. Is it safe for the machine to run without the quill installed?

Thanks,

Loren
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

hobbydad wrote:I got the SS used so I don't know the full history. I didn't know where to start checking, so I'm looking at everything.

With the sanding disc installed, I would get about 3/64" of lateral movement at the edge of the disc. I first noticed the problem when I tried to make a 3/4" dado, and it came out about 1/16" oversize.

I would like to see how the SS runs/sounds without the quill. Is it safe for the machine to run without the quill installed?

Thanks,

Loren
Re buggered shaft - judiciously file down the burr. Just enough the get it back to original size. The bearing should then slip off as easily as it moves before bumping up against the burr. File in the direction around the shaft. BTW any burr should be on the flat(s).

Ok to run without quill, but I doubt the quill is adding much sound of its own.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
hobbydad
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Post by hobbydad »

It looks like at one time the retaining collar was installed incorrectly, because there is a gouge from the serrated set screw that is half on the flat and half off. I don't have a file, but I used some emery cloth to smooth it out. I still didn't get the bearing off.

I still need to use my SS for now, so I cleaned everything up, took the opportunity to wax the quill, and put it all back together. The runout is the same. The bearing had the ID 6202Z. I don't know much about bearings, so I would appreciate a suggestion for a replacement. Hopefully a new bearing will take care of the runout, otherwise I will keep investigating.

I appreciate the help.

Loren
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Post by beeg »

SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Post by JPG »

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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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