I have recently begun working with a scroll saw. Does anyone have tips to prevent the following: blade breaking and preventing breaking pieces which have already been cut out/around? By the way it is a Dewalt scroll saw.
Thanks,
BPR
Scroll saw tips
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JPG
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Sharp Blades, Slower Feed! Do not try too small a radius. Hold down tightly!ryanbp01 wrote:I have recently begun working with a scroll saw. Does anyone have tips to prevent the following: blade breaking and preventing breaking pieces which have already been cut out/around? By the way it is a Dewalt scroll saw.
Thanks,
BPR
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
First and absolutely most important...Don't give up. Scrolling can be fun relaxing and rewarding, but it is truly an art form and does require practice. I can personally attest to times I regretted the purchase.
Now for your question:
Avoid breaking blade by have the right tension. To soft and the blade bends and cuts mushy. To tight and it breaks. I tighten the blade till it makes a nice musical tinging sound. (not real scientific but it works) Too tight will not sing, and too loose will not ping.
Avoid breaking woodit takes practice to make clean tight cuts. Try to make the smallest cuts first, so that a large wood mass supports the work. When you make a cutout, try to catch the cutout. Then replace the cutout and tape in into place with some scotch tape. Top and bottom if possible. This will allow you to make the next cut with a support piece in place.
[ATTACH]6938[/ATTACH]
I am working on this UCLA sign for my granddaughter. (work in progress)
The center of the "L, A & C" were cut first. I stuck the center of the L back in for the photo. These were taped back in, then the blue UCLA was cut. This was again taped together, a sacrificial back was taped on, and the thin yellow UCLA was cut.
When making a tight outside cut (the waste are is being discarded) if you go beyond the cut, make a little circle and come back at the cut you can create a sharp point in the project.
Hope this helps. Remember it takes time and practice.
Now for your question:
Avoid breaking blade by have the right tension. To soft and the blade bends and cuts mushy. To tight and it breaks. I tighten the blade till it makes a nice musical tinging sound. (not real scientific but it works) Too tight will not sing, and too loose will not ping.
Avoid breaking woodit takes practice to make clean tight cuts. Try to make the smallest cuts first, so that a large wood mass supports the work. When you make a cutout, try to catch the cutout. Then replace the cutout and tape in into place with some scotch tape. Top and bottom if possible. This will allow you to make the next cut with a support piece in place.
[ATTACH]6938[/ATTACH]
I am working on this UCLA sign for my granddaughter. (work in progress)
The center of the "L, A & C" were cut first. I stuck the center of the L back in for the photo. These were taped back in, then the blue UCLA was cut. This was again taped together, a sacrificial back was taped on, and the thin yellow UCLA was cut.
When making a tight outside cut (the waste are is being discarded) if you go beyond the cut, make a little circle and come back at the cut you can create a sharp point in the project.
Hope this helps. Remember it takes time and practice.
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- ucla.JPG (118.29 KiB) Viewed 4123 times
Gary Kalyn
Kalynzoo Productions
Woodworking
Porter Ranch/Northridge
Los Angeles, CA
Kalynzoo Productions
Woodworking
Porter Ranch/Northridge
Los Angeles, CA
Hey that's great Gary, but your only making a LITTLE sawdust.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
Hi again, I don't want anyone to think I'm just showing off. Really not my intent. Just got back to the computer, and this is another example of making tight inside cuts. After cutting out a section, like under the arm, even if you feel you need to nibble out some of the points, tape the remaining discard wood back into the hole. This will act as a support for the next cut. I often have 5 or six overlays of tape that I cut through on a project. I have been told, and read, that the tape lubricates the blade...don't know, but it works to hold the project together. In this project the golf club is the last cut as the unit is cut from the frame. I try to cut the frame in one piece. I can then slip it all back together to support tiny parts, like the club, while I finish sand, and clean the tape and pattern away.
Although I have blades all the up to 12 I seldom use a blade larger than 5 usually reverse tooth, and on a project like the two shown I use a 2/0 or 1.
Not unusual to use 2 or 3 blades on the golfer and I used four of the #1 blades on UCLA. A sharp fresh blade tracks better. I purchase from http://www.wildwooddesigns.com they offer gross pricing.
Do enjoy, and ask further questions if you wish.
[ATTACH]6945[/ATTACH]
Although I have blades all the up to 12 I seldom use a blade larger than 5 usually reverse tooth, and on a project like the two shown I use a 2/0 or 1.
Not unusual to use 2 or 3 blades on the golfer and I used four of the #1 blades on UCLA. A sharp fresh blade tracks better. I purchase from http://www.wildwooddesigns.com they offer gross pricing.
Do enjoy, and ask further questions if you wish.
[ATTACH]6945[/ATTACH]
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- golfer.JPG (122.54 KiB) Viewed 4108 times
Gary Kalyn
Kalynzoo Productions
Woodworking
Porter Ranch/Northridge
Los Angeles, CA
Kalynzoo Productions
Woodworking
Porter Ranch/Northridge
Los Angeles, CA
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judaspre1982
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Last edited by judaspre1982 on Sun May 14, 2017 12:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
The golfer is fret, guess you could say the same for UCLA. I always work from a pattern, using the photocopier to size the project then using spray adhesive to hold the paper pattern to the wood. Often covering the pattern with clear packaging tape to keep the pattern from lifting and to hold the surface firm. Patterns come from Wood and Woodworker and Craft magazines. Also I purchase some from Wildwood and other on line places. Sometimes I will use a coloring book or a photo. The photo is changed to black and white, then traced, then scanned and copied to size. Photoshop also helps to combine patterns.
It's a fun hobby that can be followed in a small shop. If you do decide to purchase a scroll saw look for quality or you will be sadly disappointed. Like Shopsmith, a steady platform with minimal vibration makes finishing a project without breaks make easier.
Enjoy. Now I have to get back to helping my wife wrap.
Merry Christmas
It's a fun hobby that can be followed in a small shop. If you do decide to purchase a scroll saw look for quality or you will be sadly disappointed. Like Shopsmith, a steady platform with minimal vibration makes finishing a project without breaks make easier.
Enjoy. Now I have to get back to helping my wife wrap.
Merry Christmas
Gary Kalyn
Kalynzoo Productions
Woodworking
Porter Ranch/Northridge
Los Angeles, CA
Kalynzoo Productions
Woodworking
Porter Ranch/Northridge
Los Angeles, CA
