Speed dial and sheave calibration
Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 6:23 pm
I sent this as a private message to Bill Mayo, but thought I'd also post it to the forum (just trying to get the fastest response since the shop is already heated up:)
I'm converting the wiring on the headstock of my M5 (1954 w/ updated 1 1/2 HP motor) to #12 wire. I mistakenly pulled both wires from the switch when I dropped the motor. How can I tell where the hot and neutral wires go (I have a multimeter, if needed)?
While I was in there, I am cleaning and oiling everything. I had the speed dial handle off and the idler gear out and on reassembly am having trouble recalibrating the dial with the sheeves. How do you do this? The internal worm gear and quadrant assembly has some play in it when the sheaves are fully separated (high speed) and also when they are fully compressed. Therefore the dial can be turned somewhat either way before the sheaves actually start moving. I think this is what is keeping the actual speed from corresponding with what is shown on the dial. I have tried adjusting from both ends (slow and high speeds) and when the dial handle is replaced it is calibrated OK on the speed I set it, but the dial lettering is quite a bit off at the other end. I've done this 5 or 6 times and I guess my common sense is not working:). I probably have screwed this up when I found the nut holding the idler gear on was loose. When I set the sheaves and speed dial where I think they should be and then tighten the idler nut; I end up being quite a bit off at the other end of the speed spectrum.
I hope this makes some sense and I REALLY appreciate any help you can give!
Thanks, Monte
I'm converting the wiring on the headstock of my M5 (1954 w/ updated 1 1/2 HP motor) to #12 wire. I mistakenly pulled both wires from the switch when I dropped the motor. How can I tell where the hot and neutral wires go (I have a multimeter, if needed)?
While I was in there, I am cleaning and oiling everything. I had the speed dial handle off and the idler gear out and on reassembly am having trouble recalibrating the dial with the sheeves. How do you do this? The internal worm gear and quadrant assembly has some play in it when the sheaves are fully separated (high speed) and also when they are fully compressed. Therefore the dial can be turned somewhat either way before the sheaves actually start moving. I think this is what is keeping the actual speed from corresponding with what is shown on the dial. I have tried adjusting from both ends (slow and high speeds) and when the dial handle is replaced it is calibrated OK on the speed I set it, but the dial lettering is quite a bit off at the other end. I've done this 5 or 6 times and I guess my common sense is not working:). I probably have screwed this up when I found the nut holding the idler gear on was loose. When I set the sheaves and speed dial where I think they should be and then tighten the idler nut; I end up being quite a bit off at the other end of the speed spectrum.
I hope this makes some sense and I REALLY appreciate any help you can give!
Thanks, Monte