Bandsaw Question

curiousgeorge · Post by **curiousgeorge** » Thu May 24, 2007 11:30 pm

I just received my new SS bandsaw today. I got it set up according to the book and did the test cut to align the fence and the cut came out fairly straight but very ragged or rough looking. I assumed the cuts should be much smoother. I am using the 1/4" blade that came with the saw. Can anyone tell me what would cause this?

manvelar · Post by **manvelar** » Fri May 25, 2007 12:38 am

For what it's worth, I get the same results so I don't use the bandsaw except for rough cutting that I am willing to sand. Good news is that I have the SS Belt sander and it makes quick work of smoothing things out. The only things I can think of is for you to make sure the blocks that hold the blade steady are adjusted properly so the blade can't "wander" and maybe look for a finer tooth blade. In my experience, most all band saws produce similar results. Good luck!

curiousgeorge · Post by **curiousgeorge** » Fri May 25, 2007 1:00 am

Thanks for the comeback Andy. I guess I will just do some tinkering with the adjustments and/or try a different blade. It just seems that if you pay that kind of money for a tool you would get better results. I have a ($100) bench top bandsaw that cuts smoother, so maybe it's just the blade. (I hope)

Thanks again,
George

paulmcohen · Post by **paulmcohen** » Fri May 25, 2007 2:33 am

curiousgeorge wrote:I just received my new SS bandsaw today. I got it set up according to the book and did the test cut to align the fence and the cut came out fairly straight but very ragged or rough looking. I assumed the cuts should be much smoother. I am using the 1/4" blade that came with the saw. Can anyone tell me what would cause this?

What are you trying to cut? It sounds like you are using the wrong blade for what you are trying to do.

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Fri May 25, 2007 10:27 am

curiousgeorge wrote:Thanks for the comeback Andy. I guess I will just do some tinkering with the adjustments and/or try a different blade. It just seems that if you pay that kind of money for a tool you would get better results. I have a ($100) bench top bandsaw that cuts smoother, so maybe it's just the blade. (I hope)

Thanks again,
George

A bandsaw like most any tool will only cut as good as the blade. If your using a blade with a fair amount of set in the teeth and a low number of teeth the cut will be rough. If you using a blade with miminal set and a high number of teeth the cut will be smoother. Also your feed rate will effect the cut.

Bandsaws aren't known for their finish cuts, almost with any bandsaw and any blade you are going to need to sand or joint the edge before use.

Many people are now using their band saws for ripping and cut 1/32 wide which they then joint off producing a smooth ready to glue or finish edge.

I assure you the Shopsmith bandsaw is a fine machine and a useful addition to any shop.
Ed

scottss · Post by **scottss** » Fri May 25, 2007 11:40 am

The shopsmith bandsaw is a very fine saw. I have used delta and jet and prefer the shopsmith hands down. The things you can do with it are just like what a book or video tells you. You do have to have the right blade as stated earlier. I have the video mastering your bandsaw by Mark Duginski and he demos how to do all kinds of things with your bandsaw. In his book he even uses a shopsmith amoung others. I made the jig he describes for making through dovetails and it was a joy to make the drawers for our kitchen island. Don't give up on the saw just be willing to experiment with different blades and techniques.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Fri May 25, 2007 2:39 pm

I agree with the folks above. Originally - like you - I used the 1/4" blade for re-sawing with the same results. When I had to do some serious re-sawing I got a 5/8" blade from Shopsmith. The resulting re-saw cuts are quite smooth and outstandingly un-marred with saw marks. I am using oak - don't know how that compares with other woods, but would expect even better cuts with tighter grained woods.

Incidentally, I looked in my Sears book on band saws, by Duginske ("BAND SAW HANDBOOK WITH PATTERNS" - Sears number 25065 published 1997)- it also has a 17 page section on dovetails with a band saw.

Also, I now use "cool blocks" 100% of the time. I snug these into the blade (no spacing) The results are excellent, whether using a 1/16" or a 5/8" blade (or in between).

scottss · Post by **scottss** » Fri May 25, 2007 3:07 pm

Hey Charlese, Mark uses an old sears bandsaw in the some of the video demos also along with the inca with a 1/16" blade and does some fine fretwork. He shows a lot of technique that has been very usefull to me. I watched a shopsmith demo about 15 years ago and when the instructor cut out the small 3-d dear I was amazed. I couldn't do that with my old saw but I have done that and more with my shopsmith bandsaw.

curiousgeorge · Post by **curiousgeorge** » Sat May 26, 2007 2:49 am

Thanks everyone. I was just doing some test cuts on some pine while setting the saw up. Since then I have done some adjusting on the blocks and tried some oak and the results were a lot better. I also ordered the cool blocks, 1/16" and 5/8" blades.

Thanks again,
George

john · Post by **john** » Sat May 26, 2007 7:53 pm

Chuck:

I have used cool blocks for some time now and thought I would try your method of zero clearance from the blades. In resawing some oak for the doll cradles, I must admit it did produce a smoother cut. Thanks for the tip.

John