1/4 inch router attachment

[rkh2]

Bill
Thanks for sharing the information about the set screws. I have the help kit and not sure if I overlooked any written info about the flat versus the cupped ends and where to use them. I will have to check my removable tools in the morning to make sure I have the right ones. I learned about the makeup of the metal from SS compared to aftermarket ones in one of the TA's I attended, but don't recall anyone ever sharing the other info you mentiioned.

Ron from TN

[charlese]

Hi,

Maybe we should have done this post on arbor day??

Ed

Hey! That was funny!! Just love puns.

Brass tips make sense to me. They should hold a little better.

[Ed in Tampa]

I learned more today about the types of set screws used by Shopsmith. Linda in Customer Service at Shopsmith took some time to verify that there are two types of ends on the set screws. The flat end set screws are designed are arbors and anything that that is removeable/adjustable, can be reused and comes in different lengths. The cupped end set screws (502051) with the cuts/teeth are used for places that are not being removed/replaced like the way tubes, control sheave, fan sheave and drive sleeve pulley. The help kit (515714) does contain the various set screws used by the Mark V. No reference was noted for the type of set screw with the pointed tip.

I still only use the setscrews sold by Shopsmith as they are a softer material and will not damage the quill shaft. I found in my stock that quite a few of the saw arbors and drill chucks have the cupped set screws installed. I believe the cupped set screws may damage the quill shaft due to the cuts/teeth on the end of the set screw.

Bill Mayo

Bill forgive me but I'm confused?????
First we should only use Shopsmith set screws I think we all know that.

However I thought you said in your first post, that for arbors and such we should use the set screw that had a bottom with a ring and little cuts round it.
Now if I read your second post it seems your saying those set screws are for things that are never moved like way tubes.

I just went and checked all my arbors. I'm fairly certain I never changed a set screw in most of them and I found a fairly wide spread mix. In saw arbors (4)two had screws that were cupped and cut and one was a flat bottom and the main blade I can't tell it is shiney and flat but it may have had teeth.
In the special purpose arbors (shaper, router, moulding head, dado) they were all flat, on the sanding disks (3) two were cuped but only one of those had cut teeth and the third was a flat bottom. I went to my concial disk which I used once and it is flat. The drill chuck is flat and shiney I don't know if it was cupped and cut or not.

So it seems Shopsmith is mixing the set screws or I changed a lot more than I thought and did some wrong and some right.

Just to clear up all confusion which way should it be?
Cupped with slices in all arbors
or
Flat with smooth bottom in all arbors?

Frankly I like the brass ones pictured by the other Ed
Ed

[russw553]

I just checked the set screw and it is flat as a juicy cowpie.

I also checked the router bit and it shows marks where it slipped in the
arbor, possibly when it was carving the half-moon into my table insert. Yes, it's ready for the dustbin.

As far as using Loctite or something, I am a little jumpy now and the thing
will probably sit on the shelf along with the other dusty things I paid for and
don't use. Or maybe the nice folks at Shopsmith will refund my money. We'll see.

I am now in the process of building a nice router table and will use that for my projects. I have a whole house full of window casing and baseboard I am routing to a new profile.

Thanks so much for the replies.

[billmayo]

Sorry if I confused you. I was only stating what Shopsmith said about what to use in the second post. Since I normally set up a Shopsmith for only one task, I have never had a set screw come loose on any of my Shopsmiths. I have find problems with the set screw in the Drive Sleeve pulley during repairs. My best guess at this time is to use the set screw that currently in place. There are at least 8 different set screws in the headstock so take your pick as to what to use. I have used the cupped set screws as replacements all these years with no problem. I am trying to put together a list of all setscrews used in the headstock and for where and what purpose they serve.

I will try to get a shopsmith number for the brass tipped set screw (anyone have a number) as it looks like what I need for the quill stop. I find the extended steel tip one can put indents in the sides of the quill housing key way (long cut slot on top) to where I had to replace a few quill housings and quill stop set screws during repairs. Also, the steel tip can cause a lip to form on each side of the key way which can cause the quill housing to bind. I always file the lips of the keyway on any repair or rebuild. I believe the brass tip will help prevent these problems.

Bill Mayo

Bill forgive me but I'm confused?????
First we should only use Shopsmith set screws I think we all know that.

However I thought you said in your first post, that for arbors and such we should use the set screw that had a bottom with a ring and little cuts round it.
Now if I read your second post it seems your saying those set screws are for things that are never moved like way tubes.

I just went and checked all my arbors. I'm fairly certain I never changed a set screw in most of them and I found a fairly wide spread mix. In saw arbors (4)two had screws that were cupped and cut and one was a flat bottom and the main blade I can't tell it is shiney and flat but it may have had teeth.
In the special purpose arbors (shaper, router, moulding head, dado) they were all flat, on the sanding disks (3) two were cuped but only one of those had cut teeth and the third was a flat bottom. I went to my concial disk which I used once and it is flat. The drill chuck is flat and shiney I don't know if it was cupped and cut or not.

So it seems Shopsmith is mixing the set screws or I changed a lot more than I thought and did some wrong and some right.

Just to clear up all confusion which way should it be?
Cupped with slices in all arbors
or
Flat with smooth bottom in all arbors?

Frankly I like the brass ones pictured by the other Ed
Ed

[Ed in Tampa]

Sorry if I confused you. I was only stating what Shopsmith said about what to use in the second post. Since I normally set up a Shopsmith for only one task, I have never had a set screw come loose on any of my Shopsmiths. I have find problems with the set screw in the Drive Sleeve pulley during repairs. My best guess at this time is to use the set screw that currently in place. There are at least 8 different set screws in the headstock so take your pick as to what to use. I have used the cupped set screws as replacements all these years with no problem. I am trying to put together a list of all setscrews used in the headstock and for where and what purpose they serve.

I will try to get a shopsmith number for the brass tipped set screw (anyone have a number) as it looks like what I need for the quill stop. I find the extended steel tip one can put indents in the sides of the quill housing key way (long cut slot on top) to where I had to replace a few quill housings and quill stop set screws during repairs. Also, the steel tip can cause a lip to form on each side of the key way which can cause the quill housing to bind. I always file the lips of the keyway on any repair or rebuild. I believe the brass tip will help prevent these problems.

Bill Mayo

Bill
Nice dancing. However I think you were right in your first post. It seems the set screws that have a slight cup and some cut around it flatten out instead of digging into the shaft. I wish somebody like Nick would settle this. Since it seems I have a fairly good mix in the arbors I have.

If I knew which was right I would order enough for all my arbors and replace those I already have. Perhaps I'll wait to see if someone comes up with the brass end part number. I think that one is the winner.
Ed

[james.miller]

The brass tip set screws have to be in a thicker arbor because the brass tip takes up a fair amount of space at the bottom of the threads in the arbor. It is the least marring of the setscrews. I usually find them in the new style saw arbors.

I have filed the brass to half its original thickness and used them in the Jacobs chuck and some of the other attachments which have a thicker wall so it will have enough threads to engage safely.

Anyone know the number of threads that need to be engaged for it to hold securely and not risk stripping out the threads?

Hope this makes sense.

You can also order them locally from any nut and bolt store, just give them the thread size (5/16" x 18) and length.

Jim in Tucson

[charlese]

The first time I used my brand new router attachment, the arbor set screw came loose allowing the arbor and bit to drop down, grabbed the piece of trim, ripped it out of my hands, threw it across my shop and put a hole in the wall!

We all did a good job of having an enthralling discussion about set screws, but we never did come up with a plausible reason russw553's arbor came off. Since this Thread, I've been considering why every time I change arbors.

The only reason I could come up with is a failure to fully insert the spindle shaft into the arbor. Just a small amount of possible movement back toward the SS would loosen any arbor. It would be probably more likely to fail to completely "bottom out" an arbor if it installed in the drill press position.

That's my guess - and I'm sticking to it! (Country Western thang!);)