Shopsmith Forums

JPG wrote: ↑Wed Jun 09, 2021 8:01 pm

mickyd wrote: ↑Thu Jun 03, 2021 4:10 pm Time will tell dusty. I retired last Friday so I am going to have to find SOMETHING to do with all my time besides vacations, mountain biking, and driving Mrs. Daigle crazy.

That last item is likely the easiest!

True. It's a short trip!

(On no honey, I wasn't talking about you. I was talking about my trip to go clean the bathroom, then fold the laundry, then vacuum the house....)

I'm the MAN of this house!!!
https://youtu.be/t7Y0I91rubg

LOL!!!

I'm about to completely disassemble my 10e headstock and I was noticing that the quill return on it is a bit on the weak side compared to my mark v. For the reassembly, what is the correct number of turns for preloading the quill return spring. I know that the spring is packed with sawdust and in need of a very thorough cleaning, along with everything else.

How ever many rotations it takes to provide the tension needed.

In the owners manual, in the section on the Headstock, it talks about the spindle, quill, and tensioning the spring return. and like JPG said, it says "Keep turning the feed lever until desired tension is obtained." I think mine is 4 turns.

There are a couple of things to keep in mind here though. First, you need to make sure the quill moves in and out freely, so you may need to clean and wax it, and make sure the feed mechanism is not binding. Second, you'll want to be careful of not over tensioning as the spring can disengage from the screw that holds one end to the pinion shaft. If it disengages, you will need to open it up to reconnect it. I found that I did not have to completely take it apart to reconnect it, I just had to be able to get a small screwdriver or scribe in there to reposition the hole in the spring over the screw and push it down so the spring catches onto that screw.

It is 'under' tensioning that causes the spring to slip off the headed stud on the shaft.

JPG wrote: ↑Thu Aug 12, 2021 10:02 pm It is 'under' tensioning that causes the spring to slip off the headed stud on the shaft.

That makes more sense, doesn’t it. Now that you mention it, I remember that is what I accidentally did the first time I removed the quill on my 10ER. I didn’t pay close enough attention to the feed handle and let it slip. I haven’t done that again. I now use a small 6” bungee cord that I wrap around the handle to maintain the spring tension.

I just had an idea --- I will take the belt from the very old 10E to an auto parts shop and get a spare now.

Bob T

Bob T,

If this helps, the standard single belt for the Model 10E and 10ER is 4L380. That's a 38" "V" belt and works with the 1/2 HP A. O. Smith motor common to Model 10's. Some motors may require a different size belt and most commonly a 39" belt (4L390) which is sometimes needed for a 3/4 HP motor. I also use a 39" belt for additional speeds besides the listed 3 speeds of the Model 10's to give a total of 7 speeds. See the attached chart for more information.
_ .
If normally using a 39" belt than add a 40" (4L400) belt for the additional speeds.

For anyone using the Speed Changer the belt sizes are 4L220 and 4L250 or 22" and 25". The original belts for the Speed Changer were 22.5" and 25.5" but those 1/2" size belts (4L225 & 4L255) are no longer found.

Thank you everybody for the incredible amount of information! I knew this forum was great but now that I have a rusty old, new to me, 10ER it has become spectacular! Can't wait to get started, and mickyd, what an inspiration to see your restored machines. This is gonna be some fun.
Thank you all so much and best regards, Mike