Shopsmith Forums

I have been going over the standalone overarm router I acquied a week ago and discoved that I am missing the deflector (514915) that mounts under the router motor. Is this something I really need? It looks like it would make bit changes more difficult than it needs to be.
Also, in one of the Sawdust sessions, Nick showed that screwing in the depth control handle locks the router in position. But on this one that doesn't seem to work. The router doesn't drop down on it's own, but it doesn't seem to matter if the handle is tight or loose.

Sincerely,

Ron309753

Ron309753 wrote:I have been going over the standalone overarm router I acquired a week ago and discovered that I am missing the deflector (514915) that mounts under the router motor. Is this something I really need? It looks like it would make bit changes more difficult than it needs to be.
Also, in one of the Sawdust sessions, Nick showed that screwing in the depth control handle locks the router in position. But on this one that doesn't seem to work. The router doesn't drop down on it's own, but it doesn't seem to matter if the handle is tight or loose.

Sincerely,

Ron309753

Although I don't have the stand lone model, I think the unit on the arm is the same. I'll comment on the issues you mentioned.

a) Tightening the depth control handle doesn't seem to lock the depth:
There are two things that can cause this -
1) The Nut on the left side of the clutch shaft is loose - this allows the entire shaft to rotate just as if the control handle is not tightened. - Also the splines on the clutch shaft can get leveled (ground down) to not make good contact with the control arm. A little file work will fix this.
2) Or the control handle has become rounded, of somehow does not make a good seat with the shaft.
b) The deflector - Some say (including Shopsmith) this deflector is necessary to prevent chips from flying into the router motor. I had originally removed the deflector - then because of warnings form forum member, I modified the deflector to allow easy bit changes.

here's the end of the control handle before fix
[ATTACH]7774[/ATTACH]

Here's the smashed splines on the clutch shaft
[ATTACH]7776[/ATTACH]

Here's after the filing job - not perfect, but works
[ATTACH]7777[/ATTACH]

Here's the modified deflector
[ATTACH]7775[/ATTACH]

Thanks Charlese! That's exactly what I needed to know. I think the problem is that the control handle has become rounded. The jam nut was tight on the shaft and the splines on the clutch look fine. I'll grind the end of the shaft flat this weekend.
Also looks like I'll be ordering a deflector shield (and some photon torpedoes) soon.

Sincerely,

Ron309753

Ron - I forgot to address your note that the router didn't drop down on its own. This may mean that the previous owner had a lighter weight router. It may also mean the brass gibs are adjusted perfectly for your router. Since the gibs are the most difficult and touchy thing to adjust on the OPR - maybe they are set too tight.

The gibs have to be adjusted to hold the router in position but not so tight as to prevent accurate adjustment. A 1/8" allen key is used to make these adjustments. And MAN!!! In my opinion, it's really touchy! But rewarding when it is just right.

Sounds like you have had some sound advise already but I wanted to add that you might want to pull the dovetail/gib area apart and check to make sure you have no galling going on. This is also a very good time to do some lubrication and clean up.

I was able to clean the galling up on my machine and it made a big difference with how smooth it operates and easy of adjustment.

If you don't have the manual then I would suggest give shopsmith a call and seeing if they still sell them. Some good information about getting started and adjustments and jigs you might want to build.

You might also like to look at a collection of photos I have online at:
http://s589.photobucket.com/albums/ss33 ... %20Router/

Nice to see one of these being put back in use. I know you are going to enjoy it.

Ed