Shopsmith Forums

I was using my saw and then switched to drill press mode (vertical) and now nothing happens when I flip the power switch.

I tried removing the 5 motor pan screws to look for a lose wire but realized that would just drop the motor.

Is there any way to figure out where the problem might be? I notice 4 wires going to the switch and they are all tight. How can I check the other ends of the wire. The circuit is fine when I plug a light into it, so it is something on the Shopsmith side.

Her yu go, Paul! I don't have 4 wires on my switch, but this instruction talks about a switch with 4 wires.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/productmanuals/InstallPwrSwitch.pdf

This is for the newer plastic switch, I have the older toggle switch. It has four wires (Black, White, Blue and Beige).

I also don't know if the switch is broken more likely something came loose but I don't know where to look. On the back of the switch the wires are tight.

paulmcohen wrote:This is for the newer plastic switch, I have the older toggle switch. It has four wires (Black, White, Blue and Beige).

I also don't know if the switch is broken more likely something came loose but I don't know where to look. On the back of the switch the wires are tight.

Do you have an ohmmeter, or some way to check 'continuity'?

Does the motor hum when you flip the switch. My SS did this and I took the motor to a repair shop all they did is blow the motor out with an ai hose. Try to blow it out if it is humming

I am having the exact same problem that you described. What was the solution? Thanks.... Jeff

JDSCHIMMER wrote:I am having the exact same problem that you described. What was the solution? Thanks.... Jeff

First, welcome to the forum.

Since you posted to an older thread, it is possible the original poster isn't actively watching the forum or will see your question, but you have come to the right place for advice and suggestions.

I second some of the comments from the original post ... have you been able to check the switch itself for continuity? If the motor hums but won't start, it is possibly just a build up of sawdust inside the motor. If, like the original poster, your problem developed when machine was raised to vertical, then maybe the sawdust shifted.

I have had to clean the sawdust out of my motor several times. The first time a friend helped me, and he suspected the capacitor was bad, so I replaced it. I have since learned that the capacitor is seldom the culprit, and the good blowing out may have been all it needed the first time this happened to me.

I have my own method for dropping the motor pan and removing the motor, and I'm sure there are several ways to do it. The belt can be slipped off once the motor pan is loose, but supported from trying to fall. Hint: I have found it easier to remove the switch than to try and un-hook and re-hook wires thru the small access hole. Removing the fan sheave is more work with the dangerously high-powered spring, but its removal is not always necessary to get motor working. Just remove the cover on the other end of the motor and clean out as much dust as you can using compressed air. Be mindful of the centrifugal switch and its contacts.

Here are a few pictures of what mine looked like last time I had it apart: On this occasion, I had removed the fan sheave and armature as well, and that's how I learned to be careful with the centifugal switch :-)

I'm sure others will chime in who have more experience than me, but again welcome, and explore all this site has to offer.

It has been my experience that switches fail abruptly. As a guess I would replace the switch. Get one from an electrical supply house that deals with electricians. You should get better quality. If that does not fix your problem at least you will have a new switch but you will have to look further. This assumes that there is no HUM when you try to turn it on.
Bill V

Before doing major disassembly, did you check the obvious? I.e., is there power to the wall plate, or do you have a tripped breaker?

If you have the Rectangular safety switch, the tab on the safety key insert will sometimes break off, rendering it secure, in-operable.

If that's what you have, pull out the security key and check to see if the tab, which actually trips the switch isn't broken off.

Everett

If you have that switch, and don't need the safety key, there's one at Grainger that works, and it is rated at 20A and 2HP.

Ace Sells one that has a lock-out, but I have not found it stocked locally in Lubbock. It may be in larger market areas.

Yes you can buy it from the Mother Ship (as always), but bypassing order processing and shipping delays you may get back into service today, if finding a functional one locally is possible.