Shopsmith Forums

This thread is for discussion of anything. Changing subjects is expected and/or encouraged!

Last one was Feb. 22, 2010 and can be found:

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=5283

I didn't notice this one. Can someone answer my questions on the Feb 22 2010 thread?

do any one know anything about milling and tuning custom parts for shopsmith 10 E and ER
i know that some one said something about some one who does and cant recall
im thinking about having some custom parts made... like the left pully with the shaft on it
another point would it be better to put 2 single pullys on my moter and head stock rather than useing the current one ( i have a speed changer on it now)

is there a list of what custom parts can be made or have been made

and who does powder coating, i have a small kiln that most of the parts will fit in except the head stock ( it might fit or not ) i still need to get a pyrometer ( i think that it... i have it written down some where ).... or would a kit be better to do it with???

navycop wrote:I didn't notice this one. Can someone answer my questions on the Feb 22 2010 thread?

No, I did not see the article about the stolen Public Service vehicle.

BUT maybe you are asking about the request for help with the crown moldings. I have done crown moldings but I would not pretend to know what I am doing. Crown moldings are real tricky and if you are not working in a perfectly square room they are even more tricky. Each and every cut can be a custom cut. The only advise that I can give is "buy extra molding".

I suspect that you didn't get the usual response because there are very few of us that can give you good advise on this subject (especially long distance advise). Sure wish I could jump in the truck and come over to help. I might learn something while cutting up your molding.

kameljoe21 wrote:do any one know anything ......

and who does powder coating, i have a small kiln that most of the parts will fit in except the head stock ( it might fit or not ) i still need to get a pyrometer ( i think that it... i have it written down some where ).... or would a kit be better to do it with???

You could.....
http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/main/w ... video.html

kameljoe21 wrote:do any one know anything about milling and tuning custom parts for shopsmith 10 E and ER
i know that some one said something about some one who does and cant recall
im thinking about having some custom parts made... like the left pully with the shaft on it
another point would it be better to put 2 single pullys on my moter and head stock rather than useing the current one ( i have a speed changer on it now)

is there a list of what custom parts can be made or have been made

and who does powder coating, i have a small kiln that most of the parts will fit in except the head stock ( it might fit or not ) i still need to get a pyrometer ( i think that it... i have it written down some where ).... or would a kit be better to do it with???

If your motor shaft is long enough, you could add an additional pulley to drive spt's. This arrangement was used with the model 4E jointer made for the model 10E/R.

kameljoe21 wrote:do any one know anything about milling and tuning custom parts for shopsmith 10 E and ER
i know that some one said something about some one who does and cant recall
im thinking about having some custom parts made... like the left pully with the shaft on it
another point would it be better to put 2 single pullys on my moter and head stock rather than useing the current one ( i have a speed changer on it now)

is there a list of what custom parts can be made or have been made

and who does powder coating, i have a small kiln that most of the parts will fit in except the head stock ( it might fit or not ) i still need to get a pyrometer ( i think that it... i have it written down some where ).... or would a kit be better to do it with???

There's a guy on the 10ER Yahoo group that makes the pulleys with the SPT drive hub integrated. I think his name/username is "Zeev" or something like that. I don't recall right off, but you could ask there. I don't know how much he charges for them. I stopped researching using the 10ER for the Mark 5's SPTs when I got a Mark 5.

navycop wrote:I didn't notice this one. Can someone answer my questions on the Feb 22 2010 thread?

Are you attempting to cut in with the flat/back side setting flat on the table, and setting both the table and miter gauge for a compound cut? A recipe for seeking the impossible(almost) goal.

Consider doing it as if you were using a "miter saw". The old timey manually operated miter saws were only adjustable in one plane.

Place the workpiece with one edge against the table and the opposite edge against the miter gauge(the edges referred to are those which fit against the wall and ceiling). This places the workpiece in the same position on the miter gauge and table similar to the way it sits on the wall and ceiling, but inverted(ceiling 'edge' on the table and wall 'edge' against the vertical face of the miter gauge).

The miter gauge is set to the desired angle(45 +- corner deviation). It is a bit tricky determining which direction to set the miter gauge for inside/outside/left/right pieces.

Fit the pieces together with any 'error' resulting in a small gap behind the wall 'edge'. This is not noticeable unless looking from directly under it(like 'allowing' wall color on the ceiling, but avoiding ceiling color on the wall.)

Shim it if needed!

Another method is to cope it.

heathicus wrote:There's a guy on the 10ER Yahoo group that makes the pulleys with the SPT drive hub integrated. I think his name/username is "Zeev" or something like that. I don't recall right off, but you could ask there. I don't know how much he charges for them. I stopped researching using the 10ER for the Mark 5's SPTs when I got a Mark 5.

$85.00 .........

navycop wrote:I didn't notice this one. Can someone answer my questions on the Feb 22 2010 thread?

Don't have an exact answer for you, but I'd use a coping saw. You know, one of those hand held things.