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Restoring Black Oxide
Posted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 5:10 pm
by nuhobby
I'm pretty sure this technique was at least mentioned on one forum topic, but I haven't seen it used by our resident restoration purists yet.
Recently I got a small bottle of blu(e)ing liquid, and so far I can say it really works. I had a quill shaft that was all 'silver', no black left. Just tried this stuff and it's black now:
http://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-P ... B000TTIHH0
I am not so deep in as to go try the advanced boiling techniques for more durable finishes, but so far I was impressed!
Posted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 6:15 pm
by doug45601
Don't know of a specifc thread or posting on the subject but several months back I restored a SS planer and mentioned that I used the gun blueing kit to recoat all the screws, shafts etc. I was also pleased on how well it worked out for me.. Parts still look as new. Preping the parts are key for seccess.
Posted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 9:35 pm
by cincinnati
So what does bluing do?
Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:59 am
by mickyd
nuhobby wrote:I'm pretty sure this technique was at least mentioned on one forum topic, but I haven't seen it used by our resident restoration purists yet.
Recently I got a small bottle of blu(e)ing liquid, and so far I can say it really works. I had a quill shaft that was all 'silver', no black left. Just tried this stuff and it's black now:
http://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Perma-Blue-Liquid/dp/B000TTIHH0
I am not so deep in as to go try the advanced boiling techniques for more durable finishes, but so far I was impressed!
Quill supposed to be black on all Mark 5 (V) models?
Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 12:36 pm
by JPG
mickyd wrote:Quill supposed to be black on all Mark 5 (V) models?
Many things now produced by SS Inc. are blox that were not when produced by Magna et al. The quill is one. Arbors are another.
Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 6:25 pm
by nuhobby
cincinnati wrote:So what does bluing do?
It produces Black Oxide, which is prettier than "natural rust oxide." However it isn't impenetrable; the finish needs to be kept either dry or oiled. But anyway, this is one way to keep late-model Shopsmith parts looking sharp.