How do I Dismantle a Quill?

[PG-Zac]

I have tried to dismantle my Goldie's quill with zero success, and need some pointers please. I trawled through previous posts here, but was not able to find any details. I seriously want to dismantle this to clean it up properly - I'm sure a bath in degreaser would not be good for the bearing.

First I removed the whole quill form the headstock.

Next I removed the set screw from the spindle knob, but I can't take the knob off the spindle. I managed to turn the knob on the spindle with tools, but it is very tight, and won't pull off.

Am I missing something, or is it maybe just held on by rust?
Am I supposed to use a bearing puller?

All advice would be helpful.

[mikelst]

The spindle knob should pull off. In my case there were burs on the quill shaft where the setscrew dug into the spindle and I sanded them clear after I had it all apart. It has been pointed out (rightly so) that I should have filed them instead of sanding:p.

You will have to get the spindle knob off one way or another, you might try by using a bearing puller if one is available. For me worked to grip the spindle knob (with a rag wrapped around it to protect it) with a set of channel locks and tap the spindle with a wood mallet. This allowed me to work the spindle knob off the shaft. Be sure you clean the spindle and the id of the spindle knob of any burs before reassembly.

This should expose a snap ring that needs to be removed before the spindle and bearing can be removed. Once it is out the bearing and spindle can be removed from the quill housing. Mine was a snug fit but I was able to remove it by hand.

Once this is done the bearing will probably need to be removed, I had to use a press to remove the old bearing and install the new one.

Hope this helps.

[wa2crk]

Zac;
Penetrating oil, penetrating oil and some more of the same. The knurled nut should slip off after the set screw is removed. The nut I don't think can rust because I think it is non ferrous, however the quill can rust and cause the knurled nut to freeze to the housing. Be patient and it will come off.
Bill V

[PG-Zac]

For me worked to grip the spindle knob (with a rag wrapped around it to protect it) with a set of channel locks and tap the spindle with a wood mallet.

Mike - please explain "channel locks". If I knew what those are, I might succeed in pulling this baby apart.

I have oiled and pulled and oiled some more and pulled myself blue in the face. I have taken a pipe wrench and vice grip to the unit and only succeeded in turning the knob. Then I oiled some more. I just can't get a decent grip behind the knob for more forceful pulling.

[dusty]

Mike - please explain "channel locks". If I knew what those are, I might succeed in pulling this baby apart.

I have oiled and pulled and oiled some more and pulled myself blue in the face. I have taken a pipe wrench and vice grip to the unit and only succeeded in turning the knob. Then I oiled some more. I just can't get a decent grip behind the knob for more forceful pulling.

http://images.google.com/images?q=chann ... CDIQsAQwAw

[PG-Zac]

OK I know those - We call them adjustable pliers.
I'm using a vice grip so no advantage from your tip, except for adding to my vocabulary.

Thanks.

[dusty]

OK I know those - We call them adjustable pliers.
I'm using a vice grip so no advantage from your tip, except for adding to my vocabulary.

Thanks.

I'm sorry that did not help!

But you did ask - please explain "channel locks". If I knew what those are, I might succeed in pulling this baby apart.

Maybe these will help you to visualize what you are up against:

[billmayo]

Mike [/BI have oiled and pulled and oiled some more and pulled myself blue in the face. I have taken a pipe wrench and vice grip to the unit and only succeeded in turning the knob. Then I oiled some more. I just can't get a decent grip behind the knob for more forceful pulling.

If you do not have a double bearing quill, I set the splined end quill shaft down between the jaws of a vise with the quill body setting on top of the vise jaws. The quill shaft should have an center indent facing up now. I remove any raised metal edges on the shaft with a flat metal file. I place a punch in this indent, you do not want to hit the quill shaft end with a hammer, and pound/hit the punch quite hard with a large hammer to drive the quill shaft through the alluminum knob and the quill bearing until the quill shaft falls out. You must replace the bearing after doing this task. You do not want to mushroom the end of the quill shaft by hitting directly on it.

Then I remove the snap ring holding the front bearing which can be quite hard to do. If the snap ring is difficult to remove with snap ring pliers, then I get one end of the snap ring out of the groove. I place a thin flat blade screwdriver behind the lifted snap ring end and slowly and carefully work the screwdriver around the snap ring until it pops out. I keep my hand over the end of the quill housing to catch the snap ring as I have lost a few of them doing this task. This normally takes many tries to be successful. I then use a larger punch to tap out the bearing.

You can see if you have a second bearing by looking at the splined end and rotating the shaft. The second bearing seal will not rotate. Single bearing quills has a retaining ring that turns with the shaft. You can see the front bearing if the retaining ring is missing so make sure this is not the bearing you are looking at by using the "L" allen wrench to see where the bearing is located. The second bearing will be at least 2" behind the front bearing. The retaining ring is to help center the single bearing quill shaft when installing the quill.

[JPG]

OK I know those - We call them adjustable pliers.
I'm using a vice grip so no advantage from your tip, except for adding to my vocabulary.

Thanks.

Groove joint pliers is another name, but 'channel locks' is a trademarked name.

You did remove the setscrew! Can you see the shaft through the set screw hole?

[PG-Zac]

Yup Red, the set screw is out & I can see the rusted shaft inside. I also squirted a lot of penetrating oil into the hole to get better distribution.

Bill, this is definitely a single bearing quill, and I doubt that I'll be able to get the shaft through the bearing if I can't even get the shaft through the knob. I may have to try this approach tomorrow.

Thanks guys.