Shoprite wrote: ↑Tue Oct 11, 2022 11:44 amDoes anyone have a video of the A34 jigsaw running?
Shoprite,
I don't own and have never used the Shopsmith (Manga) jigsaw, but I have seen them in operation on YT. Scott did a few good videos on the jigsaw and I hope one of these videos answers your questions. He goes a into a little detail about the operation of the jigsaw and its internals. In the lower portion, the rotary force from the headstock shaft is translated into an up & down force to move the blade. The upper portion has a spring to help retract the blade on the up stroke as I understand it. Don't forget that it needs oil in that lower cavity/reservoir before operating it. Hope this helps.
Good luck with that attitude. Folks here do try to help. Educating the less knowledgeable becomes impossible unless a common language/terms is present. The initial steps require gaining that common language. Yes a somewhat painful experience. However, no pain, no gain.
BTW you are getting there re your last post.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
The videos RF Guy linked show the later Magna/Shopsmith Jig Saw but it works the same as the A-34 Jig Saw made for the Model 10's. The Upper Chuck Assembly should move freely out of the Spring Cylinder Assembly against the spring tension. They do get "froze" up in the Spring Cylinder Assembly which took the most work freeing up during the recent restoration I did. With the Spring Cylinder/Upper Chuck Assemblies removed from the upper arm you can start to dissemble it. Removing the lock nut, washer and leather pump seal will help in being able to get some penetrating oil into the area that is froze up. This can take some time to work it free. Also unscrewing to remove the Spring Guide part number 143-31 from the threaded shaft will allow removing the spring and gain even better access to the area that is froze up. Unscrewing the Spring Guide can be difficult if there is any corrosion since there is really nothing to grip it for turning it off the threaded shaft. Use care so as not to damage any parts as they can be difficult to find replacements.
If you need it the PDF below is the Owner's Guide for the early version of the A-34 Jig Saw. If yours doesn't look quite like the one pictured, it is the later version. Still not a problem as they both function the same and the difference is the Lower Frame Assembly, Drive Housing Cover and the number of screws to hold the cover on. The later Lower Frame Assembly has a partial belt cover built in.
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Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
chapmanruss wrote: ↑Wed Oct 12, 2022 2:26 pm
Shoprite,
The videos RF Guy linked show the later Magna/Shopsmith Jig Saw but it works the same as the A-34 Jig Saw made for the Model 10's.
Russ,
Thanks for pointing this out. I didn't mention there are different jigsaws that Magna and Shopsmith sold, I believe, so thanks for pointing this out and reminding me. Also, in at least one of the videos, Scott mentions that he is NOT using a Magna/Shopsmith jigsaw, but rather the Taiwanese clone/copy of one. He does this often in his videos...so anyone watching to compare against their own equipment needs to remember this, i.e. it might not match your model exactly because a ripoff company manufactured the one in this video.
It been a while since I watched those videos and I forgot Scott had used a clone Jig Saw.
For clarification the later version of the A-34 Jig Saw is shown below. The easy way to tell this later version from the early version is the partial belt cover.
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For reference the early version of the A-34 Jig Saw is shown below. There is no partial belt cover.
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Jig Saw V1.jpg (71.11 KiB) Viewed 11000 times
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As I said before there is very little difference between the two versions which are the Lower Frame Assembly, Drive Housing Cover and the number of screws to hold the cover on. I have both versions but prefer the later version for use. This is not just because it is a bit safer having the partial belt cover but is actually the difference between the construction of the Lower Frame Assembly. The Lower Frame Assembly in the early version is open throughout and saw dust can get into the gear box. I have found saw dust in the gear box of all 3 of the early version A-34 Jig Saw I have restored. The later version corrected this by closing the gear box off from the rest of the frame.
The biggest difference between the A-34 Jig Saw and the Magna/Shopsmith Model 610 Jig Saw made after the introduction of the Mark 5 is the A-34 uses the Model 10E or 10ER table while the Model 610 Jig Saw is a more complete unit only needing a power source.
The Model 610 Jig Saw is shown below for comparison. This Jig Saw has either the "Greenie", "Goldie" or gray paint scheme depending on when it was made. A "Greenie" painted one I restored is shown.
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610 - 76158.jpg (83.59 KiB) Viewed 10996 times
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
I finally got back to painting in the garage this fall, so got a few more accessories completed for the 10-E I showed here back in July. The original owner of the machine apparently really liked to add the latest gadgets when they were developed - lucky for me…!
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(“before” shot)
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John Dalton
Massachusetts
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1948 10E, S/N 5052 (restored)
1950 10ER, S/N 26473 (restored)
1952 10ER, S/N 51721 (restored as dedicated drill press)
1954 Mark 5, S/N 263334 (functionally restored)
1954 Mark 5, S/N 263705 (restored/PowerPro)
c1959 Mark 2, S/N 81940 (undergoing restoration)
chapmanruss wrote: ↑Sun Mar 27, 2022 1:30 pm
Something I have been looking at is recreating the label for the top of the compressor. Mine are a bit beat up and it will be better to remove the old label and replace it with a recreation to finish the restoration.
Russ - I recently topped off my restored Magna Sprayer compressor with a new recreation label. Pretty happy with the results. I have extra copies of this one if you’re interested.
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John Dalton
Massachusetts
*****************************************
1948 10E, S/N 5052 (restored)
1950 10ER, S/N 26473 (restored)
1952 10ER, S/N 51721 (restored as dedicated drill press)
1954 Mark 5, S/N 263334 (functionally restored)
1954 Mark 5, S/N 263705 (restored/PowerPro)
c1959 Mark 2, S/N 81940 (undergoing restoration)
I’ve finally had some time to work l on this Magna-Line stand I picked up last year. Still have a long way to go, but it’s starting to come together…
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The original Powr-Kraft branded motor that came with it still needs some work, so still missing from the last picture.
John Dalton
Massachusetts
*****************************************
1948 10E, S/N 5052 (restored)
1950 10ER, S/N 26473 (restored)
1952 10ER, S/N 51721 (restored as dedicated drill press)
1954 Mark 5, S/N 263334 (functionally restored)
1954 Mark 5, S/N 263705 (restored/PowerPro)
c1959 Mark 2, S/N 81940 (undergoing restoration)