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Honing planer blades and cool-block question
Posted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 9:02 am
by tsaguy
I have a planer on a power-stand, inherited from my grandfather. Operation is flawless, but I want to know about hining the blades. Grampa had no documentation for any of the equipment. I have done well so far, but sharpening, as most may find, is a trait you must practiced to be honed at such... pun intended.
As far as the cool blocks, are they supposed to be touching the bandsaw blade? Mine do not...
Posted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 12:05 pm
by Gene Howe
Can't advise on the planer blades but, the cool blocks should be touching. I set mine just behind the teeth. With 1/8" blades, I bury them in the cool blocks.
Posted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 12:26 pm
by heathicus
I don't know how the cool blocks differ from the standard blocks in this aspect, but the bandsaw user manual says the blocks (I'm assuming referring to the standard ones) should have about .003"-.005" clearance. Here's the "Adjusting the Blade Guides" section from the user manual:
Set the front-to-back position of the guide blocks
Turn the blade guide adjusting knobs until the front edges of the guide blocks are just short of the bottom of the gullets between the teeth. If the guide blocks extend beyond the gullets, the teeth will nick the sides of the blocks, wearing away the blade guides and dulling the blade.
Set the side-to-side position of the guide blocks
With the locking screw loose, push each of the four guide blocks - two in the upper blade guide and two in the lower blade guide - toward the blade until they just barely clear it on each side. This clearance should be about .003"-.005".
An easy way to gauge the distance of the blades from the blocks is with tape. Put a piece of cellophane tape on each side of the blade, then push the blocks in until they touch the tape. Tighten the locking screws and remove the tape. Many woodworkers use tissue paper or a crisp dollar bill to gauge the guide clearance, but you'll find tape is easier. Be careful that the guide blocks do not press the blade to one side or the other. The blade should not be deflected when the blocks are properly set.
Posted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 3:23 pm
by JPG
Posted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 5:32 pm
by dusty
I watched the whole thing and did not see or hear one mention of cool blocks.
Posted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 8:20 pm
by JPG
dusty wrote:I watched the whole thing and did not see or hear one mention of cool blocks.
If you were looking for cool block info, you misunderstood the real purpose!;)
But you be correct!:D
Posted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 10:13 pm
by charlese
I use my cool blocks exactly as Gene Howe does (Post #2) They wear fairly quickly, so they need to be checked and squared several times during their life. I use the belt sander to square and flatten the ends.
Posted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 11:22 pm
by riot_nrrd
tsaguy wrote:Operation is flawless, but I want to know about hining the blades.
Hey TSAGuy - Shopsmith sells a
conical sander and a
grinding jig that you can use to regrind the planer blades if they need it (and you can use it to grind jointer blades, too). Make sure there is enough metal left to grind though...
RiotNrrd
Posted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 12:13 pm
by mickyd
riot_nrrd wrote:Hey TSAGuy - Shopsmith sells a
conical sander and a
grinding jig that you can use to regrind the planer blades if they need it (and you can use it to grind jointer blades, too). Make sure there is enough metal left to grind though...
RiotNrrd
Anyone able to get to the
Shopsmith Tools in Action video at the bottom of the griniding jig photo in the link above? It says it's not available and to check back later.
Posted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 2:42 pm
by dusty
mickyd wrote:Anyone able to get to the Shopsmith Tools in Action video at the bottom of the griniding jig photo in the link above? It says it's not available and to check back later.
I get the same from here.