Shopsmith Forums

I had a Capital Machinery lathe and after about 4 years it gave up the ghost. The wheels where the drive belt rode shattered. My dad had a Shopsmith that has been in his garage for 25 years - it's been idle all that time. together we knocked off most of the rust and he turned it on and it works!

My old lathe was a MT2 and I have a nice expensive chuck for it. Is there an adaptor that let's me use the mt2 stuff? I also have a pen mandrel for the old one that I'd like to use to.

beeg wrote:You can buy a 5/8's plain adapter for your chuck.

Beeg, thank you so much for your answer but I don't have a clue what a 5/8's plain adapter is. Can you help me just a little more?

I guess I should have mentioned, I'm a rank amateur. I'm a computer programmer by trade and just picked up woodworking a couple of years ago. It's just a hobby for me. I've made some really nice pens from deer antler, some gavels with sounding blocks, recently started making covered boxes and I made my first bookshelf a couple of weeks ago.

By the way, sorry if I'm asking too many questions but the rails on the machine have a lot of rust on them. I've sanded them smooth and the head device thingey moves freely but something makes me want to get all the rust off. I'm using Naval Jelly, is there a better way to get rust off?

rikbrooks wrote:Beeg, thank you so much for your answer but I don't have a clue what a 5/8's plain adapter is. Can you help me just a little more?

I guess I should have mentioned, I'm a rank amateur. I'm a computer programmer by trade and just picked up woodworking a couple of years ago. It's just a hobby for me. I've made some really nice pens from deer antler, some gavels with sounding blocks, recently started making covered boxes and I made my first bookshelf a couple of weeks ago.

By the way, sorry if I'm asking too many questions but the rails on the machine have a lot of rust on them. I've sanded them smooth and the head device thingey moves freely but something makes me want to get all the rust off. I'm using Naval Jelly, is there a better way to get rust off?

The quill spindle on the shopsmith is a plain 5/8" shaft with a blind tapered flat. Any chuck/arbor/.... must have a straight 5/8" bore to insert over the shaft. It is then secured with a set screw tightened on to the flat. The flat is tapered such that tightening the setscrew will pull the chuck/arbor away from the open end. The tapered flat does not go all the way to the end of the shaft so as to create a 'stop' for a loose chuck/arbor. Hopefully by that time an operator will have realized it is loose. BTW the set screw should have a smooth round domed end, NOT a cup or serrated end.

There are better ways to remove the rust, but they be a poor fit for your 'tentative' abilities. Use the search function and look for 'electrolysis' and 'evaporust'. In your case I think the sewer pipe/evaporust would be preferable if rust is not too severe.

P.S. Do NOT be reticent re questions, and WELCOME to this ZOO!


P.P.S Here is a good starting place!

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... =evaporust

beeg wrote: 5/8's adapter that screws onto your chuck. This allows ya to attach it to the 5/8's spindle. At least that's the way my talon attaches.

Where do I find a 5/8's adapter?

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/L5818.html

I got mine here.

rikbrooks wrote:My old lathe was a MT2 and I have a nice expensive chuck for it. Is there an adapter that let's me use the mt2 stuff? I also have a pen mandrel for the old one that I'd like to use to.

the tailstock on the SS is an MT2 so any live centers that you have will probably move right over.

if you can figure out the make and model of your chuck, someone here probably has one and can tell you how to remove the MT2 adapter and what specific 5/8-smooth adapter you need in its place.

the SS probably has significantly more horsepower than your old lathe. while you are getting used to that, you might want to be extra careful about adjusting the toolrest and staying out of the line of fire of chisels flying from hard catches.

also, ask your father if he picked up a speed reducer for the SS. the lower speed is a great help when roughing out bowls.

Ivan

Looks like I need to buy a manual. I don't have whatever piece I need to make use for the drill press so I need to buy that. I need to buy a new pen mandrel since mine is for mt2 and penn state industries sells one specifically for the SS.

My chuck is a Barracuda sold by Penn State Industries. I know an adapter came with it. I'm going to have to check it out.

That's about it though. Looks like I can get fully functional for less than $100. That's so cool.

I'm very impressed with the quality of this machine. Reckon I'm not the first to mention that though.

I'm very impressed though with all the plans I can get for free and such. Amazing.

Is it a 10ER or a Mark 5? I was thinking 10ER for some reason but realized my assumption could be (and probably is) wrong.