Shopsmith Forums

I just purchased a MarkV for a bargain. Of course, there is tremendous and I mean a boatload of rust on all of the tools. The unit was stored near the Texas coast and I need some advice on rust removal and salt deposits. I have tried Naval Jelly, works great on screws, but I need something for larger areas like the leg stands, way tubes etc.. SS Customer Help told me to use 0000 wool & WD40 & elbow grease. There has got to be something easier but not as damaging as sandblasting, right ? Help !!

Electrolysis would do the trick. You can probably use a large, sturdy (think Rubbermaid 'Brute' like janitors use) trash barrel for your 'vessel' . . . your way tubes will have to be done one end at a time, but other than that, all the pieces should fit in there.

More on the process over here . . .

http://wiki.owwm.com/ow.asp?RustRemovalByElectrolysis

It's worked wonder for me on some small projects.

I use the T-9 product from Boeshield. It does a great job.

http://www.boeshield.com/

I use an item called Abrasive Eraser. There is also a product from Klingspor called "Sandflex". It is a rubber block with grit built in. It is the same as the Abrasive Eraser. As you use it, it wears down. You can use it with a solvent if you with. Really works well on Cast tops too. Comes in three different grits.

Hi Folks !

Here's my process: Spray on 3 or 4 coats of WD-40 letting each set over night. On the next day after the 3rd or 4th coat spray on a fresh layer of WD-40. This will loosen the first several coats. Then bring on the sandpaper. Depending on the amount of rust I start with 400 grit. Knock off the rough rust & then wipe the surface down. Spray on a light coat of WD-40 & use something like a 600 grit. Repeat with 1000 grit finish up with 1000 grit. Wash the surface down with meneral spirits, dry & apply several coats of wax letting each one harden before putting on the next coat.

Hope this helps.

Bill G.

When the rust is really bad, you can first go over the surfaces with a single edge razor blade and scrape most of it off. This greatly reduces the amount of work the abrasives have to do.

If you've a lot of rusty parts, I'd go with electolysis, as Mark (deathwish2) suggests.

Here is the site that I got my information on electrolysis. It really works and A&H washing soda was available at local supermarkets.
http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

Bill Mayo

Just had to add this- Hopefully, I won't start another "Liquid Duct Tape" thing. This is just fact! I have no 'before' photos, because I didn't know how this would work. Can post an 'after' pix, but that would prove nothing.

I recently got our two bicycles out of the storage shed. They had been there for 4 years, ever since we moved from TX. They were covered wit a coating of dust/sand and when brushed off, were also covered with rust on the non-painted metal parts. Mostly affected with rust were the kick stands and chromed handle bars. Looked like some bad pits. They are now rust free. Here's the fix I used;

Sprayed a rag with WD-40 and spread on a liberal coating - one part at a time. Then too after the part with a Dremel brass brush. Used a steel brush on the kick stand and pedal cranks this worked good. also tried the steel, for a trial, on the chromed surfaces, but this, even with a light touch, created a brushed change in sheen. Went to a Dremel brass brush and a hand held brass brush which worked wonderfully. Finished by wiping down with a new WD-40 soaked rag - then wiping with a clean, dry towel. This operation only took about an hour and 1/2. The WD-40 softened the rust very quickly.

Although, I don't have rust on the Mark V - I wouldn't hesitate to use this method on it. I would use a brass brush first!

This was a shorter version of Bill G.'s (popstoyshop) method. Perhaps the brushing cut down on the soaking time!?

Check Evapo-Rust. Hit their website. Big hit with military users. We know rust.

Doc, retired GI Joe.