Shopsmith Forums

Went for a trip to PC Florida to check out my prospect, and based upon the "what to look for in a used machine" video....Smitty passed the entry level test. Belts are nice, chuck was in good shape, speed control works well, spring action in handle was excellent and spindle is tight.

I got the table-saw, lathe, drill press, looks like shaper/router bits and a bucket of extra stuff. The contents were laid on the floor and pics taken. The best and coolest part is a binder with all the original manuals, price lists, receipts and a bunch of Shop Mags starting with Fall 1 1956, a Magna Sprayer manual, and a bunch of ShopSmith Shavings and other original goodies with excellent tips.

Obviously for a '54 model we have some cosmetics to deal with, but after seeing the electrolysis process shown here, that should be taken care of as soon as I can get a swinging bench or glider made for the wife.

Here are some pics for your review and thanx for all the pointers I got from the many pros here.

Vladimir

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa99 ... e293-1.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa99 ... ure290.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa99 ... ure291.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa99 ... ure292.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa99 ... ure294.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa99 ... ure297.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa99 ... ure298.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa99 ... ure296.jpg
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Nice pix; where's the Cobra??
Bill V

Nice "GREENIE", and I do mean Greenie. Congratulations. But, is it possibly a Goldie in disguise. The pictures taken with the belt cover removed reveal a different color.

However, it does appear as though one of your first tasks, after clean, lub and wax, should be the replacement of a power cord.

I do something without thinking about it that would get me hurt on your machine. I often grab the arbor (drill press or horizontal boring) to slow it down. That allen screw sticking up there would do me in but good.

dusty wrote:I do something without thinking about it that would get me hurt on your machine. I often grab the arbor (drill press or horizontal boring) to slow it down. That allen screw sticking up there would do me in but good.

That setscrew caught my eye right off too.
I tend to do that with the left end stub shaft... I often keep a small face-plate on the left end to use as a hand wheel.
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[quote="wa2crk"]Nice pix]

Hey Bill thanx....I figured the SS specialists would enjoy any new addition to the family, now I have to decide between wood projects or this refurb project. Maybe a little of both and then when winter comes....go crazy on this thing with a full rebuild.

BTW the Cobra reference is to an aircraft I used to fly and by chance I'm back in...I wish I could afford driving one

Vladimir

You've got a nice machine and a fun project in re-furbing it. My only advice is to upgrade to the new 500 upper and lower saw guards. This essential safety equipment is usually missing on the older machines.

dusty wrote:I do something without thinking about it that would get me hurt on your machine. I often grab the arbor (drill press or horizontal boring) to slow it down. That allen screw sticking up there would do me in but good.

Dusty Farmer
You guys are kidding aren't you? You can't wait until the SS slows down itself? Guys relax slow down you are going to kill yourselves your type "A" personalities are messing with your woodworking.

You are not back in a production shop you are in you HOBBY workshop

I have an old Sears Radial Arm that doesn't have internal braking when you shut it off it spins down forever. On the right output shaft Sears did include a friction brake that you can use by squeezeing it. I rarely if ever use it. You guys would go nuts with that RAS. The brake pads would probably have to changed every other project.

cobra.driver wrote:BTW the Cobra reference is to an aircraft I used to fly and by chance I'm back in...I wish I could afford driving one

And I was thinking of GI Joe's enemy.

Ed in Tampa wrote:Dusty Farmer
You guys are kidding aren't you? You can't wait until the SS slows down itself? Guys relax slow down you are going to kill yourselves your type "A" personalities are messing with your woodworking.

You are not back in a production shop you are in you HOBBY workshop

I have an old Sears Radial Arm that doesn't have internal braking when you shut it off it spins down forever. On the right output shaft Sears did include a friction brake that you can use by squeezeing it. I rarely if ever use it. You guys would go nuts with that RAS. The brake pads would probably have to changed every other project.

My old Craftsman table saw is the same way. Takes about 30 seconds to stop spinning. I used to get impatient and try to stop it with a piece of wood. A kickback incident (not from doing that) was a nice little reminder to just slow down and take my time. I don't let the wait bother me anymore. The SS, by comparison, seems to stop right away. That's true for the 10ERs and the Mark V.

Wow. That certainly gives new meaning to the term 'Greenie'!

All those slightly rusted arbors etc. will clean up real nice with evaporust. Put some in a small bowl(disposable) and soak em for a couple of hours(more rusty ones longer).

The way tubes look good, the bench tubes are less critical, and can wait until 'winter'.

Absolutely get a shorter set screw for the drill chuck. If you cannot find a rounded end one, grind the cup off a cup end one. That is an accident waiting to bite you!!!!! It looks big in the pix, so it may be a 3/8-16 rather than a 5/16-18 thread. If so, it would have a 3/16" socket rather than a 5/32" socket(Model 10 vintage chuck). IF it is 3/8 with a 5/32 socket, carefully preserve it! They be almost extinct!

The 'arbor' next to the two router adapters is a screw center(lathe) with the screw broken off. It takes a #12 wood screw. About 3/4" to 1" exposed thread. The round shank resides inside the arbor. There is a set screw on the outer surface that holds the screw.

Make sure the control and motor sheaves are correctly lubricated before extensive use. DoNOT turn speed control knob unless the sheaves are rotating(either by hand or running).

You have a collection from more than one original Mark 5(not a bad thing!:)) It appears to be a Greenie with an early(Gilmer) Goldie headstock.

I do not know why Dusty is concerned re power cord, unless it is small gauge wire. The motor is probably a 3/4HP so the need for #14 or larger is less likely. In this case though bigger is always better(up to a point)!

Interesting receptacle(outlet TIM) addition on the left leg!