Shopsmith Forums

Just putting the finishing touches on my OEM stand. Im thinking that the tool is a little low for long periods of turning. I used the piece of junk the 10E came on and had no back fatigue what so ever. There is about 5 inches of difference.
Im 6' 1 and I had to put some 4x4's under the casters of my Greenie. Im wondering what everyone else does?
Im planning on laminating some Doug Fir blocks and tapering them to make them look sanitary on my 10E as it is equipped with a speed control and a reversible motor. Im looking forward to making a lot of shavings with this thing.

tkhudson wrote:Just putting the finishing touches on my OEM stand. Im thinking that the tool is a little low for long periods of turning. I used the piece of junk the 10E came on and had no back fatigue what so ever. There is about 5 inches of difference.
Im 6' 1 and I had to put some 4x4's under the casters of my Greenie. Im wondering what everyone else does?
Im planning on laminating some Doug Fir blocks and tapering them to make them look sanitary on my 10E as it is equipped with a speed control and a reversible motor. Im looking forward to making a lot of shavings with this thing.

WHASSAT?

Do Not comprehend!

JPG40504 wrote:WHASSAT?

Do Not comprehend!

Sorry... my mind got ahead of normal conversation. All that comment referenced was making some visually pleasing cuts on the "blocks" so that they dont look like blocks.

My main question was... does anyone else see it fit to raise the tool center line height up to make work easier?

beeg wrote:The tool rest needs to be at a height that the lathe tool is at center of the work. Just raise the SS, till it's comfortable for ya.

I totally agree! Put whatever decorative touches you want on the 'blocks' that raise it to a comfortable height. One on each end will make it happen.

Do not skimp on the screws(Mickyd made me call them screws)(Most of the rest of the world refers to them [incorrectly] as bolts). If they be 'carriage bolts' or non-machined heads, they are bolts, but if they have a machined surface under the head creating a plane perpendicular to the central axis of the thread, they be screws.

Sorry Mike I just got carried away(had a recent 'discussion' with a HF employee over what is what)!He is not privy to 'our' understanding. You would not believe his convuluted 'understanding'(screws have threads, bolts do not!???).

Hopefully the rest of y'all learned something here. If you have any questions, see MICKYD!:D

JPG40504 wrote:I totally agree! Put whatever decorative touches you want on the 'blocks' that raise it to a comfortable height. One on each end will make it happen.

Do not skimp on the screws(Mickyd made me call them screws)(Most of the rest of the world refers to them [incorrectly] as bolts). If they be 'carriage bolts' or non-machined heads, they are bolts, but if they have a machined surface under the head creating a plane perpendicular to the central axis of the thread, they be screws.

Sorry Mike I just got carried away(had a recent 'discussion' with a HF employee over what is what)!He is not privy to 'our' understanding. You would not believe his convuluted 'understanding'(screws have threads, bolts do not!???).

Hopefully the rest of y'all learned something here. If you have any questions, see MICKYD!:D

Good to see you reciting the fastener gospel. Screws vs. bolts were confused in the USA up until the mid-60's until they standardized the criteria. Took 3 winter ASME subcommittee meeting (Miami, San Diego, Hawaii) for them to all agree!!

I still get call an occasional call from US Customs agents on occasion asking me to interpret their documentthey wrote up trying to 'clarify'.

Easiest first question to ask is does it have the capability to be used in a tapped hole? If yes, it 'could' be a screw. If not, it is a bolt (i.e. carriage bolt, plow bolt since you can't turn 'em). If it 'could' be used in a tapped hole, there is a whole bunch of secondary questions to ask. Those are the ones you need to have some experience in since they relate to the design intent.

JPG40504 wrote:Do not skimp on the screws(Mickyd made me call them screws)(Most of the rest of the world refers to them [incorrectly] as bolts). If they be 'carriage bolts' or non-machined heads, they are bolts, but if they have a machined surface under the head creating a plane perpendicular to the central axis of the thread, they be screws.

Sorry Mike I just got carried away(had a recent 'discussion' with a HF employee over what is what)!He is not privy to 'our' understanding. You would not believe his convuluted 'understanding'(screws have threads, bolts do not!???).

Hopefully the rest of y'all learned something here. If you have any questions, see MICKYD!:D

I DID learn something! I always thought the difference was that screws were pointy at the end and didn't require a threaded hole while bolts were blunt and required a nut or a threaded hole.

heathicus wrote:I DID learn something! I always thought the difference was that screws were pointy at the end and didn't require a threaded hole while bolts were blunt and required a nut or a threaded hole.

Machine screws, not pointy. Socket cap screw, blunt. Lag screw (formally known as lag bolt) has pointy tip but won't accept nut but needs a threaded hole that it makes itself. Hex bolt blunt, can accept a nut but....underside of head isn't machined plus design tolerances are crude, thus it's a bolt. Hex cap screw blunt, can look just like a hex bolt except machined under it's head and tighter tolerances.

We'll be testing tomorrow!!:D

When in doubt call them all "thingy's". That is what my wife does and it seems to work for her...
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