Ripping 2x12x8 foot Boards

[djkhanson]

Hi guys, new user to these forums but it looks like they are very active which is very encouraging.

Background:
I inherited a Shopsmith model 500 with jointer, bandsaw and sander and now I want to make use of it to build simple furniture. I have requests from my wife and other ladies in the family for some sofa and armchair tables. Nothing too fancy but Arts and Craft styles to start with.

I've come here to this forum and have been reading and searching through the forums and learning about the Shopsmith. I've got it tuned and lubed up and running well after a number of years sitting idle. Got to love the internet!

I've decided that I want to build Fine Woodworking magazine's New-fangled Workbench and have the plans, bought the lumber and am ready to start. Google the name if you haven't seen it, very interesting!

To build the workbench I need to rip (Mill?) down the full length of 8 foot long boards (2x10 and 2x12s). The workbench is built from 1.5"x3"x8' boards ripped from the larger boards.

I'm wondering what the best and safest way would be to make these long rips. These are longer and heavier than anything I've ripped before.

I see three ways to do this long rip.

#1: Use the Shopsmith as a table saw (upper saw guard installed).
#2: Use the Bandsaw to make the long cuts.
#3: Use a circular Saw with a guide on sawhorses or even on the floor (with a foam board underneath)

I'm nervous about #1, it's a long heavy board but I do have a outfeed roller to help hold up the far end.

#2 is interesting, take a brand new wide blade that won't wander as much and run it through that.

#3 appeals because the boards will be supported and I can concentrate on handling the circular saw but seems like the least accurate and prone to wander even with an guide.

What are the more experienced woodworker's thoughts?

[8iowa]

For some reason I've been into a lot of 8' + boards lately. Many of my boards were cut on a WoodMizer sawmill and still have the natural edges. I take a long straightedge and draw a line the entire length close to the wavy edge. Then, with ball bearing roller stands placed on both infeed and outfeed sides, I carefully cut down the edge using a 5/8" wide bandsaw blade. It's amazing as to just how straight an edge I can cut. In fact, I can skip the table saw and go right to the jointer.

When my Shopsmith was still a 500, circa early 80's, I made a five foot fence extension out of 3/4" high grade plywood, and bolted it to the 500's fence with two 1/4" carriage bolts secured on the back side of the fence with washers and wing nuts. This fence also had additional support "lips" on the bottom on both infeed and outfeed ends, flush with the top of the table saw surface to provide additional support for the board. I cut a lot of 4x8 sheets sucessfully, although I always had a helper (usually my wife). Now that my Shopsmith has been upgraded to 520, the larger table and longer fence have negated the need for a fence extension.

If you are going to rip on the table saw, you will be really glad to use the 24T rip blade. In fact, I wouldn't rip a 1 1/2" thick board with any other blade. Roller stands on both infeed and outfeed sides will also be extremely helpful, to the point of necessity. It will also be a good idea to have a helper on the outfeed just to make sure that everything is OK on that end. You might also consider using a feather board placed just before the blade to help keep the board against the fence.

Obvious needs before you get started; two roller stands, fence extension, and a 24T rip blade.

[a1gutterman]

Hi guys, new user to these forums but it looks like they are very active which is very encouraging.

Background:
I inherited a Shopsmith model 500 with jointer, bandsaw and sander and now I want to make use of it to build simple furniture. I have requests from my wife and other ladies in the family for some sofa and armchair tables. Nothing too fancy but Arts and Craft styles to start with.

I've come here to this forum and have been reading and searching through the forums and learning about the Shopsmith. I've got it tuned and lubed up and running well after a number of years sitting idle. Got to love the internet!

I've decided that I want to build Fine Woodworking magazine's New-fangled Workbench and have the plans, bought the lumber and am ready to start. Google the name if you haven't seen it, very interesting!

To build the workbench I need to rip (Mill?) down the full length of 8 foot long boards (2x10 and 2x12s). The workbench is built from 1.5"x3"x8' boards ripped from the larger boards.

I'm wondering what the best and safest way would be to make these long rips. These are longer and heavier than anything I've ripped before.

I see three ways to do this long rip.

#1: Use the Shopsmith as a table saw (upper saw guard installed).
#2: Use the Bandsaw to make the long cuts.
#3: Use a circular Saw with a guide on sawhorses or even on the floor (with a foam board underneath)

I'm nervous about #1, it's a long heavy board but I do have a outfeed roller to help hold up the far end.

#2 is interesting, take a brand new wide blade that won't wander as much and run it through that.

#3 appeals because the boards will be supported and I can concentrate on handling the circular saw but seems like the least accurate and prone to wander even with an guide.

What are the more experienced woodworker's thoughts?

Welcome to these forums, David. Glad you joined us! If you use the bandsaw to make these cuts, you will still need some kind of infeed/outfeed support to help handle the length. As you have been lurking through the posts on these forums, you may have already come across some helpfull tips on how to keep your cut straight. Even so, I wood consider using one of the other methods first. Method one will also require infeed/outfeed support, and the thickness of the material will add to the difficulty, but it can be done; just make sure you are using a sharp blade and one that is specially made for rip cuts. IMHO, method 3 will give the best results. Use either a saw mounted guide or a long board attached to your 2"X10". Good luck.

[JPG]

I vote for #2. Use a blade suited for the task(coarse toothed, wide).

The main table and an extension table on the far end provide outfeed support(that is where it is really needed[the workpiece is now two pieces and gets far from the 'operator' controlling the infeed end]).

A rudimentary guide may be clamped to the extension table(a board and a c-clamp). The table will be far enough away so as to prevent the board teeter-tottering.

[pennview]

As posted by 8iowa:

For some reason I've been into a lot of 8' + boards lately. Many of my boards were cut on a WoodMizer sawmill and still have the natural edges. I take a long straightedge and draw a line the entire length close to the wavy edge. Then, with ball bearing roller stands placed on both infeed and outfeed sides, I carefully cut down the edge using a 5/8" wide bandsaw blade. It's amazing as to just how straight an edge I can cut. In fact, I can skip the table saw and go right to the jointer.

When my Shopsmith was still a 500, circa early 80's, I made a five foot fence extension out of 3/4" high grade plywood, and bolted it to the 500's fence with two 1/4" carriage bolts secured on the back side of the fence with washers and wing nuts. This fence also had additional support "lips" on the bottom on both infeed and outfeed ends, flush with the top of the table saw surface to provide additional support for the board. I cut a lot of 4x8 sheets sucessfully, although I always had a helper (usually my wife). Now that my Shopsmith has been upgraded to 520, the larger table and longer fence have negated the need for a fence extension.

If you are going to rip on the table saw, you will be really glad to use the 24T rip blade. In fact, I wouldn't rip a 1 1/2" thick board with any other blade. Roller stands on both infeed and outfeed sides will also be extremely helpful, to the point of necessity. It will also be a good idea to have a helper on the outfeed just to make sure that everything is OK on that end. You might also consider using a feather board placed just before the blade to help keep the board against the fence.

Obvious needs before you get started; two roller stands, fence extension, and a 24T rip blade.

I agree with the above suggestion about using the table saw mode with a fence extension and would add that the two roller stands need to be perpendicular to the saw blade/fence so they do not cause the boards to wander and pull away from the fence as you rip them. Also use a feather board in front of the saw blade to keep the stock you're ripping against the fence. I think this is the easiest way and will give you the most consistent 3" wide boards. A helper would be most helpful. With properly placed rollers, you won't even notice the weight of the boards while ripping.

On the other hand, ripping on the bandsaw is probably the safest.

[djkhanson]

Great replies, thanks!

After reading these I think I'm most comfortable at my skill level using the circular saw on top of saw horses for the long 8 foot rips. Option #3

I can clamp the boards down with a guide for the circular saw. The picture of the heavy long boards binding and wandering around on the bandsaw or table saw worries me.

I think buying a 24T blade just for ripping will help a great deal. Thanks for that advice, I believe in using the right tools for the job.

Once the really long cuts are out of the way I'll start playing around with the shorter cuts building my skills and experience with the bandsaw and table saw as I go. I love the band saw for some reason and I'm looking forward to more practice with it.

I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks again!

[JPG]

Great replies, thanks!

After reading these I think I'm most comfortable at my skill level using the circular saw on top of saw horses for the long 8 foot rips. Option #3

I can clamp the boards down with a guide for the circular saw. The picture of the heavy long boards binding and wandering around on the bandsaw or table saw worries me.

I think buying a 24T blade just for ripping will help a great deal. Thanks for that advice, I believe in using the right tools for the job.

Once the really long cuts are out of the way I'll start playing around with the shorter cuts building my skills and experience with the bandsaw and table saw as I go. I love the band saw for some reason and I'm looking forward to more practice with it.

I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks again!

A 'rip' blade for the smaller(?) hand circular saw will probably have less than 24T. Main thing is to get a RIP blade.(much set, deep gullets)

[SDSSmith]

FWIW, I would look at this as an opportunity to 'improve' your marriage. I would use the Mark V in table saw mode (upper saw guard in place) with a sharp blade and slow feed. Wife on the outfeed, you on the infeed......It's a beautiful thing. Plus if things do not go well, you are well on your way to justifying the upgrade to a 510 or 520.

[charlese]

Hi David! Welcome to the Forum! I think you have chosen the best way to rip these 2 bys, considering your comfort level.

This is the method I was going to recommend for you. Your post # 6 outlines my thoughts perfectly.

Best Wishes and stay safe.

[joedw00]

Welcome David! I would have to agree with going with what ever you are most comfortable with.