I have a Mark II that was used mainly as a table saw. I tried to use the drill press recently and I could not advance the quill. I know it worked at one time but has not been used for several years. I made sure the quill lock was loose and I used liquid wrench on the quill inside and outside of the housing and also in the quill lock hole. It won't budge. The quill advance handle rotates a little bit due to backlash on the pinion so I know it isn't the pinion. I figure that:
A) The quill lock has jammed somehow. Never overtightened - seems unlikely.
B) It is rust/corrosion between the quill and the headstock quill bore.
C) It is rust/corrosion on the drive shaft splines - can't see in there.
Since everything inside the housing looks shiny, I have to guess "B".
From the pictures I have seen the Mark II and the Mark V are very similar as far as the quill goes. They both have the rubber washer 'bumper' and circlip and the arbor piece looks identical. My first thought is to heat up the housing in some non-damaging way. Possibly I could remove the pinion and use a propane torch from inside the pinion bore. What do you think?
Stuck quill on mark II
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I am not near my machine but on the Mark 5 I seem to remember a set screw what could be used to tighten the quill. It was on top just to the left of the silver ring that surrounds the quill.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
- dusty
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Stuck Quill On Mark II
Try putting out in the sun. If it gets as hot as mine did, you won't need any additional heat applied. Your profile hasn't been completed/updated so I can't tell what part of the country you are in.
Based on your description of the remaining parts, I sort of doubt you have a rust problem. It could very well be a accumulation of something like wax and dust that has been compacted there and left to harden.
Based on your description of the remaining parts, I sort of doubt you have a rust problem. It could very well be a accumulation of something like wax and dust that has been compacted there and left to harden.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
I don't think the Mark II has the set screw you are taking about. There is a small allen setscrew on the pinion boss, but I think that keeps the pinion assembly in place. There is a glue covered setscrew on the aluminum ring at the exposed end of the quill. I think this ring is what keeps the drive shaft from sliding out of the ball bearing when you extend the quill. There is no other setscrew that I see, just the quill lock which is really a machine screw with a handle on it.
There is some rust on the 1" of exposed quill that protrudes from the headstock. What is the headstock made of anyway? It looks like it could be aluminum, but seems heavier. Setting it out in the sun is a good idea - I am over in San Diego and it is toasty right now.
There is some rust on the 1" of exposed quill that protrudes from the headstock. What is the headstock made of anyway? It looks like it could be aluminum, but seems heavier. Setting it out in the sun is a good idea - I am over in San Diego and it is toasty right now.
Stuck quill solved
I finally got around to it and left it out in the sun. After the housing got warm and it still wouldn't budge, I took off the circlip and rubber bumper and using a piece of hardwood to protect the end of the shaft, I smacked it a couple of times with a hammer. I had soaked the obvious places with penetrant and I could see the quill retract very slightly with each blow. A bit more worrying and it loosened up completely. Now I have a drill press again.