Shopsmith Forums

I've got it almost completely apart now. Surprised to find a 2 bearing quill (not sure if it is good or not). Also, what looks like an almost new gilmer belt. On the bad side, the quill feed lever is missing and the speed dial is missing some teeth, time to check ebay.
I have one question tonight. I cannot figure out how to get the headstock lock handle off of the threaded rod. Figured I'd ask before cranking on it and breaking it.
Man, this is fun. It will be a true test of my patience to get this baby restored.

nils wrote:I've got it almost completely apart now. Surprised to find a 2 bearing quill (not sure if it is good or not). Also, what looks like an almost new gilmer belt. On the bad side, the quill feed lever is missing and the speed dial is missing some teeth, time to check ebay.
I have one question tonight. I cannot figure out how to get the headstock lock handle off of the threaded rod. Figured I'd ask before cranking on it and breaking it.
Man, this is fun. It will be a true test of my patience to get this baby restored.

It is retained by a 'spring/tension/roll' pin. Ya need to 'drive it ' out. It will then screw off.

BTW, iff a gilmer drive, a two bearing quill would be a modified quill since the ss two bearing quill and a gilmer drive are 'not' compatible due to the nylon coupler and the splines.

Never heard of a roll pin. I was searching old posts for it when i saw your reply.
I've nerver heard of a gilmer belt until 4 days ago, but I think it's the one with all the ribs on the inside. I'm still a far way from dealing with the headstock rebuild. That seems like it will be a challenge.

http://allinonewood.com/?page=shop/serv ... 26e639a3b9

Nils, go here and copy all the links and your worries for working on you MKV will be answered. This has saved a lot of us a lot of work.

nils wrote:Never heard of a roll pin. I was searching old posts for it when i saw your reply.
I've nerver heard of a gilmer belt until 4 days ago, but I think it's the one with all the ribs on the inside. I'm still a far way from dealing with the headstock rebuild. That seems like it will be a challenge.

A gilmer belt is a cogged belt. It has grooves running across the belt.

A Poly-v belt has the grooves running parallel to the sides of the belt)like a automobile 'serpentine belt'(multiple v shaped grooves).

I am guessing that the previous user on my machine installed a new gilmer belt and stopped there when it wouldn't work.
That allinonewood web site looks it might be my new best friend. At least it should eliminate me asking some elementary level questions to you all.
Thanks again
Joe

nils wrote: I have one question tonight. I cannot figure out how to get the headstock lock handle off of the threaded rod. Figured I'd ask before cranking on it and breaking it.

Here's a pic from my disassembly:

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpos ... stcount=18

I ground a small nail to make a punch and drove the pin out. Easy enough to do. The real trick is putting it back in as the hole appears to be drilled after the handle is assembled and may be off-center. Being off-centered means you have to have the handle spun back on at the right starting point in the threads so that the hole in the handle aligns with the hole in the all-thread. You can check this by using the "punch" or a small drill bit of slightly smaller diameter than the pin to see if it will go all the way thru without obstruction. (Hope this is clear)

fiatben wrote:Here's a pic from my disassembly:

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=62808&postcount=18

I ground a small nail to make a punch and drove the pin out. Easy enough to do. The real trick is putting it back in as the hole appears to be drilled after the handle is assembled and may be off-center. Being off-centered means you have to have the handle spun back on at the right starting point in the threads so that the hole in the handle aligns with the hole in the all-thread. You can check this by using the "punch" or a small drill bit of slightly smaller diameter than the pin to see if it will go all the way thru without obstruction. (Hope this is clear)

Screw the 'wingnut' onto the threaded shaft until you can see all the way through both the hole in the wingnut AND the shaft. You should see a totally round opening all the way through when it is properly aligned. There is only one position where is IS correct, and the 'roll' pin can then be reinserted relatively easily. Do that AFTER inserting the shaft and wedges back into the headstock!!!!!!!!!! If yer gonna file the wedges, do not over do it. Try to just take the depression out of it and maintain the original angle. Use a flat file!