Shopsmith Forums

I have a Greenie that I am thinking about turning in to a mini. I would like to be able to use it as a table saw and maybe a disk sander, as well as a power station for all my attachments. I will most likely use it for a power station most of the time. To through of you that have built a mini, how long do you recommend that I cut the tubes to be able to do this. I would keep it the full size but have limited room in my shop with 2 shopsmiths. I need to move out my stand alone band saw to make room for the full size shopsmith and a mini. I have already sold the radial arm saw that I had, just to make more room in the shop. My shop is small, about 12' X 12' with cabinets on two walls, so not a lot of floor space. Thanks in advance for you advice.
Mark

The way I see it, the most you want to shorten it and still use it as a table saw is 20.5". This gives you just enough room to mount 1 1/4" saw blades(the shorter Mark 5 version) with the table carriage all the way to the right, and the headstock all the way to the left.

Just to be cautious, I would not cut off more than 20".

In order to attach an spt to the left end, the headstock must be able to slide under the table.

Keep in mind the way tubes are 3/4" shorter than the bench tubes. On a greenie, the bench tubes are 1 7/8" od and the way tubes are 1 3/4" od. Do not get them mixed up. Make sure the bench tubes are 3/4" longer than the way tubes after being cut. All 4 tube cutoffs should be the same length.

I cut 26 3/8" off mine, but table saw function was not a prerequisite. It CAN be used as a saw, but the table must be removed to change the blade. At least that is/was my plan. Final assembly about to occur. We shall see how successful my 'plan' is shortly. Initially the mini was to be used as storage only, but I have decided to add a headstock to it.

The reason for '26 3/8" shorter way tubes' is that a 52" way tube cut 26 3/8" leaves a 26 3/8" tube and a 25 5/8" tube. Thus from one 52" way tube you get a new 25 5/8" way tube and a new 26 3/8" bench tube. This can be done with a later model since both the bench and way tubes are 1 3/4" od. They could be made 3/8" longer if bench tubes(52 3/4") were used.

That's the way I currently see it, and the parts are cut! That is the way it shall be!

Hi, JPG
The table saw is not that important to me. Would like to be able to have a back up. So if I understand you right, you cut the tubes in half and will be able to set it up as a table saw but have to remove the table from the carriage to change blades? Something similar to that would work for me as it will be use primarily for spt. The shorter the better with my limited space. Thanks for your input.

Mark

wingrider wrote:Hi, JPG
The table saw is not that important to me. Would like to be able to have a back up. So if I understand you right, you cut the tubes in half and will be able to set it up as a table saw but have to remove the table from the carriage to change blades? Something similar to that would work for me as it will be use primarily for spt. The shorter the better with my limited space. Thanks for your input.

Mark

Since you have a greenie, the bench tubes are a different od than the way tubes.

Keep in mind the 3/4" difference in lengths(bench 3/4" longer).

If you cut ONE bench tube in half(26 3/8"), you could cut ONE way tube to have two 25 5/8" + 1 scrap piece 3/4" long.

Keep in mind I have not completed this scenario, but I do believe all I have said is accurate. Satisfy yourself that my information is accurate and that we have a common understanding b4 doing it!

Realize that disc sanding with the MAIN work table will not be possible, but an extension table can be used. A disc sander/main table IS possible with the 20" shortening!

Make sure you really need to cut off that extra 'half foot'!

JPG- Shopsmith sells a table insert for use with the disc sander. If you use the table insert rather than sanding off the edge of the main table, I think you can still use the disc sander with the shorter tubes.

I made a table insert for my conical disc as well. I like using featherboards in the left miter slot when using the conical disc.

Gary

JPG
You are right. Six inches is not that much. I will go with cutting off 20". Don't know what I was thinking. I hope to get started on it soon.
Gary,
Didn't think they made a table insert for the greenie. Thought only for the 510.

wingrider wrote:JPG
You are right. Six inches is not that much. I will go with cutting off 20". Don't know what I was thinking. I hope to get started on it soon.
Gary,
Didn't think they made a table insert for the greenie. Thought only for the 510.

Correct! They do not make one for other than 510/520(larger table)

greitz wrote:JPG- Shopsmith sells a table insert for use with the disc sander. If you use the table insert rather than sanding off the edge of the main table, I think you can still use the disc sander with the shorter tubes.

I made a table insert for my conical disc as well. I like using featherboards in the left miter slot when using the conical disc.

Gary

You mounting the disc backwards???????

JPG- No, the conical disc is mounted normally, through the table insert, with the fence to the right of the conical disc. The fingers of the featherboards are pointed to the right, pushing the stock against the fence.

I was having a problem keeping long/heavy boards tight against the fence near the end of the sanding pass- a consequence of being too short to easily reach the far side of the table with my left hand.

Gary

greitz wrote:JPG- No, the conical disc is mounted normally, through the table insert, with the fence to the right of the conical disc. The fingers of the featherboards are pointed to the right, pushing the stock against the fence.

I was having a problem keeping long/heavy boards tight against the fence near the end of the sanding pass- a consequence of being too short to easily reach the far side of the table with my left hand.

Gary

So they are between both the front and rear of the table and the disc?