Shopsmith Forums

Looking for hints, tips, suggestions for removing the u-drive screws holding the SS nameplate on my 10e. I've gotten some info searching the forum, but thought it'd be quicker to consolidate those tips/suggestions into one thread.

Thanks!

Post 51 and 52 should get you through the task.

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=40523#post40523

You don't need the special tool shown. Anything to get you into the u-drive hole from behind will work.

mickyd wrote:Post 51 and 52 should get you through the task.

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=40523#post40523

You don't need the special tool shown. Anything to get you into the u-drive hole from behind will work.

My 10E did not have 'thru' holes! I did not remove them for that reason!

Underdog, a trick that we used in the Army, working on helicopter sheet metal to remove rivets, (and basically, this is a rivet) is to drill a hole through the center of the head to pop it off. That way you can get the nameplate off without hurting it or the headstock. If you're lucky, the holes are through-drilled, and you can push the u-drive rivets out from the back, which would be even easier.

steve

MickyD, the wedge was brilliant!

I located the appropriately shaped scraps in the garage, ground a long bolt down so it had flat sides, and within 3-5 hits the u-drives were standing proud of the headstock. Managed to get under the head and pry it off without
damaging the name plate. Thank you!!! Now I can continue on in the restoration.

So, can I reuse these u-drives or should I be looking for replacements?

Thanks again!

Glad to help underdog!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fcjOi_3H7gw

JPG40504 wrote:My 10E did not have 'thru' holes! I did not remove them for that reason!

Ditto with mine.

skou wrote:Underdog, a trick that we used in the Army, working on helicopter sheet metal to remove rivets, (and basically, this is a rivet) is to drill a hole through the center of the head to pop it off. That way you can get the nameplate off without hurting it or the headstock. If you're lucky, the holes are through-drilled, and you can push the u-drive rivets out from the back, which would be even easier.

steve

I tried that. I don't know about the u-drive screws in general, but mine are hardened steel. A drill bit didn't even make a scratch in them.

skou wrote:Underdog, a trick that we used in the Army, working on helicopter sheet metal to remove rivets, (and basically, this is a rivet) is to drill a hole through the center of the head to pop it off. That way you can get the nameplate off without hurting it or the headstock. If you're lucky, the holes are through-drilled, and you can push the u-drive rivets out from the back, which would be even easier.

steve

Typically, U-drive (aka metallic drive screws) are made of hardened steel, somewhere in the hardness of Rockwell C30....very hard. Drills that can get through this material are either cobalt, titanium, diamond tipped, or carbide tipped, all used at a low RPM's.

Some drive screws are made from low carbon steel. Those can be drilled out with a standard high speed steel drill bit.

heathicus wrote:Ditto with mine.



I tried that. I don't know about the u-drive screws in general, but mine are hardened steel. A drill bit didn't even make a scratch in them.

The u-drive pins are more akin to a spiral shaft nail than they are a rivet. They be quite hard. You might break or grind the head off, but ya ain't gonna drill it out. Twist drill bits do not like to bite into hard convex surfaces.

Unless you can get under the head to pry it out or drive it out from a through hole, they are best left alone(assuming ya want to salvage that which it is securing).

Well! Today I learned they can be 'soft' enough to drill!

JPG40504 wrote:The u-drive pins are more akin ......

Well! Today I learned they can be 'soft' enough to drill!

Just follow me jpg....you'll go places!!