Shopsmith Forums

Needing input please. My blade is binding while ripping 1 inch oak. Also, I'm getting burning on the edge of the wood.

The causes would seem to be:

1. The fence and blade are misaligned.
2. The edge of the wood is not straight and creating a binding
3. The SS is not powerful enough to handle the 1 inch oak.

I rechecked my alignment and am not seeing any variance between the blade and the fence, though I did not recheck alignment with a dial indicator, just a ruler. Perhaps I should do so.

Do you think the binding is a result of alignment issues or is the SS underpowered? I cannot believe the SS cannot cut 1 inch oak, so it must be my alignment, but I've checked it fairly carefully.

Perhaps I need to clean my blade.

My edge of the board checked out as straight.

Surely the problem is operator caused, I just cannot figure this out.

I have had the same issues on the hardwoods myself. Always use a sharp blade and a slower feed rate. Is the SS underpowered?! In some cases, yes! but it can be overcome.

If alignment is good and feed rate is slow and steady, a sharp blade will usually do the trick.

Hi,

I'm not normally up this early but I have a few things that come to mind.

To rip wood you need a rip blade, this blade needs to be sharp and clean.

Your machine needs to be in alignment, the table needs to be at adjusted so the miter slots are perpendicular blade. The fence needs to be parallel to the blade. If you normally rip with the fence set to the left then you want to be sure the fence is either right on or the the out feed side is slightly wider then the in feed side.

You should be using the guard system that is designed to work with your model which should have some form of splitter involved. This is a good time to make sure the splitter is correctly adjusted.

You need to use the correct speed setting or slightly below that. If I recall this is in the O setting for hardwoods, best check that in the book to be sure.

Now I'm sure the other folks here can pass on a few other things, I'm off to repair my cistern pump (rain water system).

Ed

I have NO new advise to give only to say that YES you should be able to cut 1" oak with only minimal strain. You will experience a difference when cutting hard woods as opposed to softer woods on the Mark V.

Table and fence alignment is critical and a sharp blade (I prefer a thin kerf blade) is imperative. Slow the feed rate (creep to begin with) and make certain that you have the proper splitter (upper saw guard) installed BEFORE cutting anything.

AFTER THOUGHT: Is it green or wet wood. If so, set it aside and let it dry.

I also think that you have an alignment problem. Check out Nick Engler's "Hands On" video clip on aligning the main table; ( http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... gnment.htm ) I've never regretted the investment in precision alignment and measuring tools.

The Shopsmith has plenty of power to rip almost any type of 1" thick wood. I also advise getting the 24T rip blade (blades are on sale at this time). One of the nice advantages of the Shopsmith as a saw is the variable speed. By cranking the speed down to around "M" or "N" you will gain cutting torque and avoid "burning"

I don't think your problems are caused by micro-misalignment, lack of power or any other tool related issue. You've cut lots of oak before and you've obviously gone through that stuff and not found the problem. I think it's probably the wood. Oak, particularly (but not only) when a little green, can have a lot of tension in it and it may well be squeezing your blade, maybe a little which would cause slow down and some burn or maybe a lot which would cause stall or if you're not in control, kickback. I don't know if you're using a splitter or not but if you are and it is as wide as the blade it will still not completely solve your problem. While it should prevent the wood from binding on the blade and causing kickback, the wood can still pinch the splitter. Oak can have a lot of tension. I'd try driving a small wedge in the kerf past the blade and then keep checking for tension as the cut progresses, moving the wedge back toward the blade as necessary.

Paul M

I've been cutting some 5/4 black walnut lately with no problem either.

I'vw ripped lots of red oak and some white. If I can, I would like to ditto what shipright said - + assuming your speed control is set right, set the speed at the lower edge of "O".

Be careful with the operation. Don't force the wood into the saw and --Good luck!

Thanks everyone on analyzing my problem on ripping oak.

I harvested this oak from my place, early last year. Absent a moister meter, I do not know the moister level in the oak, but it has been drying under roof, stickered, for over a year. Other wood species (ash, pecan) in the same cut is dry. But, absent a meter, I cannot say.

All other issues are noted and off I go.

Great group to draw on for expertise. Thanks so much.