Shopsmith Forums

So if you had to choose only one which would you choose? I really need one, but I'm not sure which is a better purchase. Doesn't a planer do basically the same thing as a jointer only on a grander scale?

It seems to me that a jointer is limited to about 6" while a planer can handle up to 12" (for a bench top model), wouldn't it be better to have a planer and use it as a jointer?

Most planers can't really be used as a jointer. A jointer is used to get the first two sides of rough stock flat and square. A planer will flatten the opposite side IF the first side is flat, otherwise it will just transfer any twist or cup to the second side.

There are ways to use a planer as a jointer but you have to build a sled and shim the stock so it won't rock as it passes through the planer.

If you buy your lumber already surfaced on one side, then you can probably skip the jointer. But, if you get completely rough cut lumber, you might could still get by without a jointer, but you'll want to have both.

A planer surfaces one side to be flat and parallel relative to the opposite side. So, like tdubnik said, if the opposite side is twisted or cupped, that twist or cupped will be transferred. That's because the rollers flatten the board while it's being planed, but once the board is out of the planer, it springs back to its previous twist, cup, etc.

The jointer is used to get one face flat and one edge flat and perpendicular to that face. The opposite face and edge are then surfaced relative to those using the planer and table saw.

That being said, I bought a vintage Delta jointer earlier this year from an elderly man who bought it about 20 years ago and never used it. He uses a planer exclusively for preparing his wood. And the stuff I saw that he made was some very fine craftsmanship. But I don't know if he bought rough lumber or lumber that was already surfaced on at least one face/edge.

If you routinely purchase rough sawn lumber, you really need both. If you purchase lumber surfaced on at least one side, you can skip the jointer. One big use of a jointer is to true up edges for gluing up panels. This can be done on the router table and even on the SS disc sander. In a perfect world, both make life easier. I ran into a deal on a 50's jointer with a frozen bearing early in my woodworking career. I think I paid 10 dollars.(that was a long time ago) There are deals out there.

Roger

If you want flat surfaces, get a planer and learn the tricks for dealing with warped boards. If on the other hand you want to "joint" edges, get a jointer. It doesn't have to have a motor though. My first "jointer" was made by Stanley. Actually it was a fore plane, the next size down from the jointer, the longest of the hand plane family, but it works as well. What a jointer (power variety) won't do is give you parallel flat surfaces. What a planer won't do is joint edges.

Hope this is some help.

Paul M

I'm with Paul as per hand planes. That said, I have also used the conical sanding disc as a jointer of sorts. Assuming your stock is small, it works! As for me, I have both the SS jointer and planer. If I could only have one, it would be the jointer. Alec

easterngray wrote:I'm with Paul as per hand planes. That said, I have also used the conical sanding disc as a jointer of sorts. Assuming your stock is small, it works! As for me, I have both the SS jointer and planer. If I could only have one, it would be the jointer. Alec

When using the conical disk to true an edge, do you not need to have a true edge to start with. The conical, it seems to me, simply provides an edge that is parallel to the fence when used with a conical disk.

Yes - hence my "of sorts".

dusty wrote:When using the conical disk to true an edge, do you not need to have a true edge to start with. The conical, it seems to me, simply provides an edge that is parallel to the fence when used with a conical disk.

Maybe I am misunderstanding what you are saying. Doesn't the edge that goes against the fence need to be true? If it isn't, wouldn't any irregularities passing along the fence be reflected by the conical disk sander?

dusty wrote:When using the conical disk to true an edge, do you not need to have a true edge to start with. The conical, it seems to me, simply provides an edge that is parallel to the fence when used with a conical disk.

You really don't need a true edge to start with. If using the conical disk (or flat disk for that matter) to sand to width, your actually sanding the edge perpendicular to the table surface. If you using it to sand to thickness, your sanding the surface parallel to the fence. This really needs a picture to explain clearly.

EDIT - To be clear, if your entire part is resting against your table or fence at the same time, it doesn't matter if you start with true edges / surfaces. You'll end out making them that way.