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picked up another one today, one of mine will end up being a shorty. This is another 510

Also came with a band saw, hope to be able to swap or sell and buy or swap it for a belt sander.

quick question, don't want to tie up everybody's time because I will do some research on the site.

It's still in my truck, but when I started it up at the P.O. place it seems to start in a higher speed, not router speed and not jig saw speed. Dial went around super easy, but no change in speed.

This weekend I will start the clean up and and oil and look and see if the dial is even connect and everything else that will be done before I decide which one of mine get cut up.




TIA

I'm pretty sure you'll find that the loop on the end of the sheath will not be attached to the end of the pork chop. I forgot the real name for the pork chop.

All the 'loop' does is keep the button in the center of the bearing on the end of the control sheave from rotating. It will not contribute to speed changing ability.

I would suspect the floating sheave(motor pulley) is sticking.

lets see if I can explain this right.

what is broke is the bearing that goes into the top of the sheave.

one piece is hooked to the spring/loop that attaches to the porkchop.

It has a smaller shaft the goes into the sheave, this looks like it snapped off from inside the bearing that goes to the sheave

attached pix.

what will be involved in the fix?

the hole in this pix, (not my machine) where we put oil, shows how the part is supposed to be.

How is that inner shaft connected to the Pulley?
TIA/

farley, here are a couple of links that give information on how to remove and replace the drive sheaves and control sheaves. You should be able to get the pin back into the small bearing but if the small bearing is bad, you will most likely need to replace at least that half of the control sheave.

The first thing I would do is to verify that both the floating motor sheave and control sheave slide freely on their shafts. I would suspect that the pin came out of the bearing because one or both of the sheaves are sticking.

If everything is working right, the sliding part of the control sheave will move as the speed is adjusted and the small pin will stay in the little bearing.

I had the same problem on one of my old greenies but I still was able to make it work once everything was everything was taken apart and cleaned up. The pin was a little tricky to get back in place but it works for now. I still plan on replacing the parts sometime in the future.

I hope this is helpful. I am sure you will more specific advice from others. Good luck, John McCrossen

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/prod ... cement.pdf

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... _Index.htm

thanks for those links. Will get on it today.

I think my control sheave will have to be replace, because the little pin that the spring loop is hooked to appears to be broken from the bearing which I think is permanently hooked to the control sheave.

SDSSmith wrote:Are you sure about this information? I always thought the clip/loop was used by the quadrant to pull the sheaves apart to increase speed. The quadrant pushes up against the button to close the sheaves and decrease speed. I would expect that the control sheave is sticking and needs lubrication and contributed to the failure (button pulling out of the control sheave).

I have been with you on this but I believe there is a posting to the contrary and if memory serves me it was by Bill Mayo. I will search for it. My recollection is that the speed should be adjustable up or down without the loop attached.

dusty wrote:I have been with you on this but I believe there is a posting to the contrary and if memory serves me it was by Bill Mayo. I will search for it. My recollection is that the speed should be adjustable up or down without the loop attached.

I would not disagree that when the machine is clean and properly lubricated the tension in the belts caused by the motor's spring loaded floating sheave would cause the control sheave to open when the quadrant is moved away from the button. However, those conditions are often not the case and the loop provides a positive way to ensure the speed will be increased.

ok starting on the next step.

I removed the pulley, dropped the motor, wires are long enough for bench tubes to hold motor, but it looks like I have to disconnect the wires from the switch as there are no quick release for the wires. (there will be when reinstalled).

Once I can get the motor out of the way, I need to removethe idle shaft and get top sheavess out to see what is holding back the control sheave. I am sure it stuck, there's been no maintenance on this for awhile.

johnmccrossen

set me a link to how Nick takes apart the upper sheaves, so I do that next.
thanks all for the help