Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.
I have thought about this a little and am trying to figure a way to utilize the miter slots and some t-nuts but can't have anything projecting beyond the working surface of the fence?????
I use my fence extension quite a bit on my 520. Just 36 x 8 x 3/4 plywood. I've rounded over the in-feed edge just a wee bit so stock doesn't catch on it. I attach it using "T" bolts that I shortened with a hack saw. They go into the "t" slot on the fence. On the extension I drilled a hole and inserted a rosen insert so it's just flush with the face of the extension. The male portion of the "T" bolt matches the female portion of the insert. I leave the bolts in position with just enough play to slide the extension into place on the fence. When it's in position I turn the insert 1/4 turn and it tightens up against the slot very nicely.
I like using an extension because IMHO it provides greater surface are, hence stability . It's easy to clamp hold-down feather boards on the extension. I have a second that I use as a "sacrificial" fence for dadoing.
"How do you plan to attach your extension to the existing fence? The plan in PTWFE calls for two carriage bolts through the fence but the new SS rip fence has no holes. I was bummed by that and had to part with a couple jigs because of it."
I have used the sliding t-nuts for many jigs. All you need to do is counter sink the head just below the surface of the wood fence and have the right length fasteners. The length needs to let you tighten it to the rip fence and not extend so far as to hit inside the t-slot. (I have had to resort to buying stainless steel parts sometimes to get the right length and have the same size allen wrench as the shopsmith uses... but with the added cost I now sometimes cheat and use philips head.) The 520 pro fence has the feature so use it!
In case you are not sure what the sliding t-nuts are you can see them by using part number 514491. They are on sale at $2.17 each in the sawing and drilling sale catalog (page 9 ). They are useful for many many things so buy a few if your machine uses that method...
Based on your recommendations, I now have all of the hardware required to mount several accessories using the t-nuts that I have.
I don't think I even need to buy bolts. I scoured through the coffee cans and found many that I think might do the trick.
Ed, You said, "(I have had to resort to buying stainless steel parts sometimes to get the right length and have the same size allen wrench as the shopsmith uses... but with the added cost I now sometimes cheat and use philips head.)" Is this because stainless are the parts that are more readily available to you or is there a preference to stainless?
My coffee cans yielded a goodly supply of black, steel, flathead, allen head, countersunk bolts of various lengths. Is there any reason why these are less suitable than stainless?
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
On the issue of what fasteners to use, the length is normally the issue. The hardware stores I go to have a set selection and in most cases everyone carries the same selection as far a lengths go. The typical bright zinc stock is limited to 1/2" then 3/4" then 1" and the heads are either slotted or philips. The stainless or black oxide may have additional lengths like 5/8" and 7/8" and you can often find allen head... something I like to use especially if is the same size that the shopsmith uses.
So it is personal preference and availability that often leads me to stainless steel besides I like the idea of ss for the ss. But when cost is factored in using other flavors of fasteners happens.
How come you are so lucky as to find things that actually fit in your coffee cans?? Mine seem to contain every know fastener to mankind except the ones I need??
The T-slots are nice but they require each jig, fixture or aux fence have their own hardware. I have taken a modified approach. I saw a fence clamp made for biesmeyer fences and adapted it to my use.
[ATTACH]351[/ATTACH] http://www.grip-tite.com/
Here is a diagram of the clamp [ATTACH]352[/ATTACH]
Instead of being out of metal I built mine from wood and used a wooden dowel to insert into the jig, fixture, or aux fence.
I just glued some MDF (top piece and right side) and using a dowel (left side or piece that goes into the jig/fence) works just as well. For the tightening mechanism I simply used a generic t-nut and a bolt with a plastic knob on it.
I like this idea for two reasons
1. There is absolutely no metal anywhere near the blade. Even a huge oops doesn't allow metal to blade contact.
2. I built two and I can use the clamps on many different things. saving me having to have hardware for every jig/fixture/aux fence I want. All I need to do is drill a hole in the jig slide the dowel into it and tighten the clamp agains my fence.
Ed
Attachments
biesholeclamp.jpg (82.05 KiB) Viewed 21044 times
MVD%20HoleClamp2.png (714 Bytes) Viewed 21043 times
This is a great idea! Maybe a little more $$ then I want to spend but adapting as you have would be a way to go. I have ideas sprouting in my mind as I'm typing this... Thanks for the posting!
I red an article in a woodworking magazine a few years ago about a guy that used a piece of Aluminum U-channel extrusion 8" long or so for a fence extension, he claimed it worked very well. There was a followup several months later where he built an even longer one.
These photos remind me of some clamps that I have somewhere in the shop that were, in their original life, thumbscrew clamps for relocatable desk lights. Finding them shall be the trick.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
How do you plan to attach your extension to the existing fence? The plan in PTWFE calls for two carriage bolts through the fence but the new SS rip fence has no holes. I was bummed by that and had to part with a couple jigs because of it.
I have thought about this a little and am trying to figure a way to utilize the miter slots and some t-nuts but can't have anything projecting beyond the working surface of the fence?????
Any jig or extension that fits over the top of the fence or can be made to fit over the fence can be attached to a top T-slot with a T-slot bolt and Through Thumb nut, or locked on with one of the expandable plastic bars that come under the feather boards.
Just acquired the Nick Engler book on Jigs, Fixtures and Shop Furniture He describes a 4 foot one that has triangular braces on the back side of the overhang. I think I will adapt his design for my recently upgraded 520.
