Someone mentioned how much they liked the Rip or fence scale on the 520's.
I have a 520 upgrade and the rip/fence scale but I find I usually don't adjust it to my blade and continue to use a rule to set my fence.
I was wondering how many of us that have a 520 with the rip/fence scale uses it or do you measure with a rule between the blade and fence?
If you do use the rip/fence scale how do you go about zeroing it to the blade?
Ed
520 Rip scale
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Ed in Tampa
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How about a political answer? I use it sometimes and sometimes I don't. But the more I use it the more I like using it.
For sure I like having it but after having and using my shopsmith since 1976 until just a few years ago without, well old habits are hard to stop. As far as when I tend to use it and when I don't I guess I do have a few trends developing.
One is if I will be makeing a number of cuts at different dimensions, once zero is established you can do width changes to well within 1/32"... and if you are going to joint the board afterwards that is when the critical dimensions come anyway. I also like it when using my wobble dado, once you know where the edge is you have it... if you use a ruler it is harder to find that far/near point each time. Also when the distance is greater then 12" which is the length of the favorite ruler that I like to use. (Please note you can use your favorite metal ruler as long is it is not too wide in place of the scales that comes with the shopsmith).
This might be a little confusing to some people but here goes. I also like it when using the miter gauge. Now that I've said that I better explain. You never use the miter gauge AND the rip fence at the same time to make cuts. What you can do however is to clamp a short board to the rip fence (spacer) well back from the blade making sure the stock you are cutting is not touching blade and the spacer at the same time. If this is not clear please ask about it before you try it!! Now with the scale off-set for the spacer on the rip fence you can do crosscuts at say 10" then move the ripfence to a scale reading of say 15-1/2" or 7-13/16.... Bingo no need to measure (this is best done for 90 deg cuts but you can play with angle cuts if you know what you are doing). Yes the old spacer on the rip fence trick with rip scales... Now do they show that in the PTWFE? I'm sure they do but it way to late for me to dig my book out and find the pages. And even with that they most likely don't add the scales part as they are newer then the book.
I tend not to use it when I'm just doing "eye balling" for cuts. In fact I may not use a scale at all some times, but rather a story stick or brass bars or in some case the piece "looks" about 2" wide or 4" wide and it just doesn't really mater what the true width is.... Sometimes I'm only makeing one or two cuts and don't want to take the time to set-up the scales.
If I have a very critical cut I may want more then depending on looking at the edge of the rip fence and a scale a little bit away... think parallax. A ruler to tooth tip is hard to beat.
Ed
For sure I like having it but after having and using my shopsmith since 1976 until just a few years ago without, well old habits are hard to stop. As far as when I tend to use it and when I don't I guess I do have a few trends developing.
One is if I will be makeing a number of cuts at different dimensions, once zero is established you can do width changes to well within 1/32"... and if you are going to joint the board afterwards that is when the critical dimensions come anyway. I also like it when using my wobble dado, once you know where the edge is you have it... if you use a ruler it is harder to find that far/near point each time. Also when the distance is greater then 12" which is the length of the favorite ruler that I like to use. (Please note you can use your favorite metal ruler as long is it is not too wide in place of the scales that comes with the shopsmith).
This might be a little confusing to some people but here goes. I also like it when using the miter gauge. Now that I've said that I better explain. You never use the miter gauge AND the rip fence at the same time to make cuts. What you can do however is to clamp a short board to the rip fence (spacer) well back from the blade making sure the stock you are cutting is not touching blade and the spacer at the same time. If this is not clear please ask about it before you try it!! Now with the scale off-set for the spacer on the rip fence you can do crosscuts at say 10" then move the ripfence to a scale reading of say 15-1/2" or 7-13/16.... Bingo no need to measure (this is best done for 90 deg cuts but you can play with angle cuts if you know what you are doing). Yes the old spacer on the rip fence trick with rip scales... Now do they show that in the PTWFE? I'm sure they do but it way to late for me to dig my book out and find the pages. And even with that they most likely don't add the scales part as they are newer then the book.
I tend not to use it when I'm just doing "eye balling" for cuts. In fact I may not use a scale at all some times, but rather a story stick or brass bars or in some case the piece "looks" about 2" wide or 4" wide and it just doesn't really mater what the true width is.... Sometimes I'm only makeing one or two cuts and don't want to take the time to set-up the scales.
If I have a very critical cut I may want more then depending on looking at the edge of the rip fence and a scale a little bit away... think parallax. A ruler to tooth tip is hard to beat.
Ed
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dusty
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520 Rip Scale
reible hit it right on, that's exactly how I feel.
It's a neat thing to have available but so are my trusty steel rule and pocket tape measure. Many, many years of habit are hard to break.
I have a trust issue also. I have set the rip scale and later found that it has been moved. I tend to snag it and slide it just enough to make it out of adjustment.
Which leads me to the next part of the question. How do you align it?
I use the ever available 18" steel rule or my 2' level as a straight edge. I slide the rule up against the edge of the saw blade (gently, so as to just touch the edge of the teeth at both the infeed and outfeed side of the blade). I then slide the rip scale to the proper zero reading, the edge of the straight edge.
As reible said, parallax is a potential contributor to a bad setting - especially at the age of some of us.
It's a neat thing to have available but so are my trusty steel rule and pocket tape measure. Many, many years of habit are hard to break.
I have a trust issue also. I have set the rip scale and later found that it has been moved. I tend to snag it and slide it just enough to make it out of adjustment.
Which leads me to the next part of the question. How do you align it?
I use the ever available 18" steel rule or my 2' level as a straight edge. I slide the rule up against the edge of the saw blade (gently, so as to just touch the edge of the teeth at both the infeed and outfeed side of the blade). I then slide the rip scale to the proper zero reading, the edge of the straight edge.
As reible said, parallax is a potential contributor to a bad setting - especially at the age of some of us.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
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dusty
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
520 Rip Scale
Being a creature of habit, I use my steel tape measure almost exclusively.
My 520 rip scale hardly ever gets used. If I was new to the Shopsmith, I would probably use the rip scale rather than any other measuring device but many years of habit has won out.
The short rip scale is always there and occasionally I use it. The longer rip scale (44" I believe) has never been used. It is more of a storage issue than a tool. I tend to use my Shopsmith for small projects and therefore don't need the long rip scale frequently. Someone building larger projects, like furniture, may find use for the longer scale.
As far as alignment goes, it is easy and accurate if you are careful. I use my 24" aluminum level as a straight edge.
With the blade set for about a 3" depth of cut, slide the straight edge, lightly, up against the blade. Take care to just touch the edge of the teeth on both the infeed and outfeed side of the blade (do not flex the blade).
Sight down the edge of the straight edge while sliding the rip scale into the proper (0 reading) position. Parallax is the issue. Careful alignment results in a "right on" adjustment.
However, alignment is now done but for one side of the saw blade only. How often have I set up very accurately only to make a cut that is off by the width of the kerf; more than I want to admit.
I also find that the rip scale gets moved inadvertently; therefore, I must make a deliberate effort to confirm alignment right before I rely on the rip scale.
Clean the magnetic tape and the rip scale with mineral spirits. I suggest doing this right before any project where you are going to be dependent on the rip scale for accurate readings. I believe the rip scale will be held in place more securely.
My 520 rip scale hardly ever gets used. If I was new to the Shopsmith, I would probably use the rip scale rather than any other measuring device but many years of habit has won out.
The short rip scale is always there and occasionally I use it. The longer rip scale (44" I believe) has never been used. It is more of a storage issue than a tool. I tend to use my Shopsmith for small projects and therefore don't need the long rip scale frequently. Someone building larger projects, like furniture, may find use for the longer scale.
As far as alignment goes, it is easy and accurate if you are careful. I use my 24" aluminum level as a straight edge.
With the blade set for about a 3" depth of cut, slide the straight edge, lightly, up against the blade. Take care to just touch the edge of the teeth on both the infeed and outfeed side of the blade (do not flex the blade).
Sight down the edge of the straight edge while sliding the rip scale into the proper (0 reading) position. Parallax is the issue. Careful alignment results in a "right on" adjustment.
However, alignment is now done but for one side of the saw blade only. How often have I set up very accurately only to make a cut that is off by the width of the kerf; more than I want to admit.
I also find that the rip scale gets moved inadvertently; therefore, I must make a deliberate effort to confirm alignment right before I rely on the rip scale.
Clean the magnetic tape and the rip scale with mineral spirits. I suggest doing this right before any project where you are going to be dependent on the rip scale for accurate readings. I believe the rip scale will be held in place more securely.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
[quote="dusty"]I also find that the rip scale gets moved inadvertently]
This has been my delimma in deciding whether to purchase the rip scale. I can't help but thinking that I will always be double checking with my ruler, so why not just use it from the start.
Is there anyone out there who has the rip scales and uses them with complete confidence? Having owned and used them, would you buy them again or continue to use your own ruler?
This has been my delimma in deciding whether to purchase the rip scale. I can't help but thinking that I will always be double checking with my ruler, so why not just use it from the start.
Is there anyone out there who has the rip scales and uses them with complete confidence? Having owned and used them, would you buy them again or continue to use your own ruler?
Alan
'Baking The World A Better Place'
'Baking The World A Better Place'
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dusty
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- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
520 Rip Scale
alan
I don't doubt its' usefullness or its accuracy. I have just used a measuring device that I carry in my shop apron for so long that the habit over rules.
If I was just getting into shop work or getting back into after a period of nonuse - the rip scale would be great. It is difficult to teach or reteach an OLDE DOG.
I don't doubt its' usefullness or its accuracy. I have just used a measuring device that I carry in my shop apron for so long that the habit over rules.
If I was just getting into shop work or getting back into after a period of nonuse - the rip scale would be great. It is difficult to teach or reteach an OLDE DOG.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
I ordered the 520 upgrade today and plan to give the rip scale a try. I believe it will just be a starting point for me. After calibrating it, I'll probably set up for a cut using the rip scale, then double check it with my ruler. If I don't find errors after doing this for a while, I may go to checking it every other time, or every third. Time will tell.