I finally got around to doing the 520 upgrade of my 500. What an incredible difference. The pro fence system is much more substantial. I have a few questions for those with the 520.
It seems like it could become a PIA to do anything. Even adjusting the height of the blade (or more acurately the depth of the cut) would require disconnecting the bars between the extension table and the main table, adjusting the height of the main table. adjust the height of the extension table, reconnect the bars, and set the floating table where you want it.
Changing to another tool would be even more steps. Does this just become second nature? or am I looking at it wrong?
They sent along a new arbor for my blades and sanding disc. These are longer and I suspect they are so to fit with the blade guard. I have many arbors with blades on them and 3 sanding discs with different grit papers. Is there any problem just not pushing them in all the way and tightening them down? They seem pretty stable.
The change-over was pretty easy except for aligning the extension table. I can get everything lined up and the nuts hand tightened and recheck and everything is aligned, then when I tighten up the nuts the table comes out fo alignment. Has anyone found an easy way to do this?
I think I will really like the up-grade once I start using it.
Thanks.
JeffG
520 Upgrade
Moderators: HopefulSSer, admin
Congrats on your upgrade Jeff!
I don't have a 520 but the issue of raising the table on my 510 is the same as you describe. Yes, the change will soon become second nature. If you have the 5' connecting tubes, just loosen the tube tightening screws - slide the connecting tubes out of the extension table while leaving them in the main table - raise or lower the main table - slide the connecting tubes part way back and adjust the extension table to align with the tubes - insert the tubes in the extension table - tighten the screws again and GO.
This reads like a big problem, but it takes only about the same time as reading the above description.
The second thing is really more important! Never insert the saw arbors just part way and try to tighten them. Unless,of course, you have real good hospital insurance and a burning desire to use it.
The spindle has a tapered flat spot and the CORRECT arbor must be on the saw blade and/or the sanding disk for safe use. If the tightening nut is tightened part way up the sloped flat, the blade can come loose (and probably will) causing a bad situation. The blade can work inward toward the headstock cutting into your saw insert, come completely loose and leave the spindle. A free spinning blade is not something you want to have.
Danger for machinery and you.
I don't have a 520 but the issue of raising the table on my 510 is the same as you describe. Yes, the change will soon become second nature. If you have the 5' connecting tubes, just loosen the tube tightening screws - slide the connecting tubes out of the extension table while leaving them in the main table - raise or lower the main table - slide the connecting tubes part way back and adjust the extension table to align with the tubes - insert the tubes in the extension table - tighten the screws again and GO.
This reads like a big problem, but it takes only about the same time as reading the above description.
The second thing is really more important! Never insert the saw arbors just part way and try to tighten them. Unless,of course, you have real good hospital insurance and a burning desire to use it.
The spindle has a tapered flat spot and the CORRECT arbor must be on the saw blade and/or the sanding disk for safe use. If the tightening nut is tightened part way up the sloped flat, the blade can come loose (and probably will) causing a bad situation. The blade can work inward toward the headstock cutting into your saw insert, come completely loose and leave the spindle. A free spinning blade is not something you want to have.
Danger for machinery and you.Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Hi Jeff,
I'll start with the "bad news". The saw arbors and sanding arbors all need to be updated. You could get away with not doing the sanding disks if you wanted to deal with the limited use they still have... if how ever you want to take advantage of the dusk collection and use the disks with the saw table they will not work. If you want to use them with an extension table off the aux. top shaft they will work there. I too had to deal with this and I had a pile of arbors and lots of sanding disk..... good thing you still have a few days left to get the sale prices.... sorry but it has to be done.
As far as doing setups with the extension tables and bars it will take a bit of getting use to. Remember you don't have to use them all the time, remember that pre-planing operations can save you time in the long run. And the more you do things the easier it gets. If you have someone else with a 510/520 that you know ask them to stop over and learn a few tricks they might have to pass on.
As far as alignment it should also go fast. I just did one a few days ago so I'll tell you what I did. If you are setting the table up so it is to the right side things go something like this:
Make sure the bottom nuts are a few turns off from touching. I take a weight (actually it is 10 pound weight off a dumb bell set) and "center" it on the table (centered between the four studs). Silde the top left and right to find the center in that direction then move the main table (the main table should already be done and set and locked, make sure it is not tilted) over so they touch. Make sure you lock the carriage. Next using a long rule or roofing square or ?? do the front alignment. At this point the table should just slide into position. make sure the side is touching the main table and the extrusions are aligned along the front of the machine.
Now comes the part where you have to get the tops flat. Using the rule/square/?? start getting rid of the high/low spots using the top nuts. I like to get them set so they put the extension table just below the main tables height and the gap even left to right. Then check that you are sill touching the main table on the side and the extrusions are still aligned. Now you do the final adjustment and get the extension table flat with the main table. The weight makes you work on it but I find it is not as "tippy" this way. Once you are sure it is "just right" do the side and front check again. Now you can bring the bottom nuts up into contact. One more check and then tighten finger tight. Do a little bit to each one when doing this (you should have a washer between the nut and the bracket). Now get out the wrench and snug them up... do not over tighten. Check one more time. Should be right on the money.
Ed
I'll start with the "bad news". The saw arbors and sanding arbors all need to be updated. You could get away with not doing the sanding disks if you wanted to deal with the limited use they still have... if how ever you want to take advantage of the dusk collection and use the disks with the saw table they will not work. If you want to use them with an extension table off the aux. top shaft they will work there. I too had to deal with this and I had a pile of arbors and lots of sanding disk..... good thing you still have a few days left to get the sale prices.... sorry but it has to be done.
As far as doing setups with the extension tables and bars it will take a bit of getting use to. Remember you don't have to use them all the time, remember that pre-planing operations can save you time in the long run. And the more you do things the easier it gets. If you have someone else with a 510/520 that you know ask them to stop over and learn a few tricks they might have to pass on.
As far as alignment it should also go fast. I just did one a few days ago so I'll tell you what I did. If you are setting the table up so it is to the right side things go something like this:
Make sure the bottom nuts are a few turns off from touching. I take a weight (actually it is 10 pound weight off a dumb bell set) and "center" it on the table (centered between the four studs). Silde the top left and right to find the center in that direction then move the main table (the main table should already be done and set and locked, make sure it is not tilted) over so they touch. Make sure you lock the carriage. Next using a long rule or roofing square or ?? do the front alignment. At this point the table should just slide into position. make sure the side is touching the main table and the extrusions are aligned along the front of the machine.
Now comes the part where you have to get the tops flat. Using the rule/square/?? start getting rid of the high/low spots using the top nuts. I like to get them set so they put the extension table just below the main tables height and the gap even left to right. Then check that you are sill touching the main table on the side and the extrusions are still aligned. Now you do the final adjustment and get the extension table flat with the main table. The weight makes you work on it but I find it is not as "tippy" this way. Once you are sure it is "just right" do the side and front check again. Now you can bring the bottom nuts up into contact. One more check and then tighten finger tight. Do a little bit to each one when doing this (you should have a washer between the nut and the bracket). Now get out the wrench and snug them up... do not over tighten. Check one more time. Should be right on the money.
Ed
Since I also posted on the "other" shopsmith site the other day about why not to spend money on piece meal upgrades to a 500 like I did... you might find a few other things that you have that need to be upgraded.......
Check out:
http://www.ssug.org/forums//viewtopic.php?t=1672
I think it is like the 4th post down.
Ed
Check out:
http://www.ssug.org/forums//viewtopic.php?t=1672
I think it is like the 4th post down.
Ed
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james.miller
- Gold Member
- Posts: 303
- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 2:16 pm
Ed,
I did get the full upgrade to the 520. I can see now that that was the best way to go. I started going through my boxes of stuff and I found some of the longer arbors there. One of my sanding discs had one also. So I guess I will just change over. As Jim mentioned, I can sell the others on ebay.
JeffG
I did get the full upgrade to the 520. I can see now that that was the best way to go. I started going through my boxes of stuff and I found some of the longer arbors there. One of my sanding discs had one also. So I guess I will just change over. As Jim mentioned, I can sell the others on ebay.
JeffG
My 520 upgrade is on order. I have a 510 now, so the arbor problem won't affect me. I do have a few 500 arbors that I should clean up and sell on eBay, if I can just find the time. Work really infringes on my woodworking time.
If you upgrade to the 510 or 520 and have the shaper fence for the 500, be aware that it can be modified to work with the new table. You just have to drill a couple of holes in it. Shopsmith mailed me instructions on doing the modification. Be sure to get their instructions, because drilling in the wrong place can weaken the shaper fence base.
If you upgrade to the 510 or 520 and have the shaper fence for the 500, be aware that it can be modified to work with the new table. You just have to drill a couple of holes in it. Shopsmith mailed me instructions on doing the modification. Be sure to get their instructions, because drilling in the wrong place can weaken the shaper fence base.
I was going to mention the modification to get the old shaper/sander fence to work on the new machine but then I didn't want to get in to the differences between the old and new fences.... and well I still don't want to. But I will say they are not the same in more ways then mounting. However if you are happy with the old one and want to save some money it is an option.
If this is an issue for someone I can try and find the postings listing the differences or re-create it. I think it was over at the ssug.org site???
Ed
If this is an issue for someone I can try and find the postings listing the differences or re-create it. I think it was over at the ssug.org site???
Ed