Shopsmith Forums

Hello,

This weekend I successfully did my first spindle type of turning. I have some walnut branches that I was able to take off a downed tree limb. I wanted to turn some small pieces that I could use for handles on some rasps. I was thrilled with how they turned out and am instantly hooked.

I would like to ask a really dumb question. I have a larger piece that is about 5 inches in diameter and maybe 4 inches long. I would like to use it to make a mallet. The piece of wood has relatively thick bark. Should I remove the bark first before I attempt to turn it? If so, are there any recommendations on the easiest way to get the bark off?

If it is okay to turn with the bark left on it, I assume that I should use the biggest gouge that I have with a "cutting" action and to be very careful to use a light touch. I had also pondered trying to use more of a scraping action.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Bruce

I believe that the best tool would be a 1" roughing gouge. A roughijng gouge has a different bevel angle and is used specifically for roughing cuts. The large gouge in the Shopsmith set would probably be OK if used for shallow cuts. However I would strongly suggest a face mask instead of the normal safety glasses. The pieces of bark will come of at a high speed and will probably cut unprotected skin.
Bill V

I fell that leaving bark on is inviting injury from that bark as it strikes you or another object.

Hello
The safest way is to take the bark off before turning.

The funny thing about this topic, is. Latter on when you have more turning experance you may want to keep the bark on for natural edged vaces. but then you will be conplaining that the bark will not stay on where you want it. ;-)

One small note. I was tought this attage when I started turning.
Green wood is FUN!
Dried wood is WORK!

Have Fun first! Work will always come latter ! ;-)
Good luck on your project.

C.A.G.

Thanks for all the advice. I ended up taking the bark off with a chisel and it came off relatively easily. I read other places on the web about using a high pressure washer to remove bark, but I didn't have access to one and I didn't want to get the wood wet.

I understand the truth about the adage of green wood is fun and dry wood is work.
This particular piece has been drying for about a year and it definitely was slower to turn to the required shape. But the piece came out looking nicely and I'm definitely jazzed that my second attempt at turning as come out as well as it did.

All the great advice has really helped. Thanks again

Bruce

having turned in years but I would think taking the bark off also keeps you tool a little sharper, I think bark might have some sand it it??

wa2crk wrote:...... However I would strongly suggest a face mask instead of the normal safety glasses. The pieces of bark will come of at a high speed and will probably cut unprotected skin.
Bill V

A full face shield is a must, bark or no bark. I recently bought a shield with ear muffs, designed for use when operating a chainsaw, that is great for turning. The problem I found with the face shield that is plastic is that it gathers dust. This thing has a wire mesh face shield but really doesn't get in the way of seeing what you're doing. At the risk of starting an off-topic discussion, I bought it at Harbor Freight for about $12, primarily for use with my chainsaw. The ear muffs work exceptionally well and the shield flips up and down easily.

http://www.harborfreight.com/ear-muff-m ... 99848.html

fiatben wrote:A full face shield is a must, bark or no bark. I recently bought a shield with ear muffs, designed for use when operating a chainsaw, that is great for turning. The problem I found with the face shield that is plastic is that it gathers dust. This thing has a wire mesh face shield but really doesn't get in the way of seeing what you're doing. At the risk of starting an off-topic discussion, I bought it at Harbor Freight for about $12, primarily for use with my chainsaw. The ear muffs work exceptionally well and the shield flips up and down easily.

I got the Husquevarna(sp) version of this that is built in to a hardhat (from Lowes, I think). other than the odd reactions from the neighbors, I like it a lot when trimming trees with dead wood. it had not occurred to me to use it with the lathe (Doh!).

thanks for the idea. I will definitely give it a try at one of my lathes with a higher spindle.

my one concern is whether a large object (wood or tool) thrown from the lathe is more likely to snag in the mesh versus slide off a plastic shield. safety glasses under either type is still a good idea.

iclark wrote:my one concern is whether a large object (wood or tool) thrown from the lathe is more likely to snag in the mesh versus slide off a plastic shield. safety glasses under either type is still a good idea.

Yeah, you still get sawdust flying up under the shield, especially in my drafty old barn, so a good set of safety glasses, even a dust mask, is a good idea.