Rust Rovmoval Test #1 - Paiting It On
Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 11:57 pm
The cost of this project is a consideration so I'm trying to strike a balance with a little benefit-cost analysis, for you economists out there. I ran across a bottle of "The Must for Rust" by Krud Kutter at Wally World and thought I would give it a shot. I think I paid $4 for an 8 oz. bottle. Not the most economical, but fine for testing.
I started with the combination saw blade I got from my dad. It's in rough shape. Lots of rust, pitting and rust buildup. I didn't want to pour the stuff into a container large enough to submerge the blade because that would use up the whole bottle. So I squirted the stuff on the blade and used a chip brush to spread it around in what I thought was a fairly thick coat.
Here's the blade before treatment. The darker areas are caused by penetrating oil from removing the saw arbor.
[ATTACH]10989[/ATTACH]
"Painting on" the Krud Kutter. Notice that surface tension tended to retract the rust remover from areas that weren't coated with penetrating oil (bottom right).
[ATTACH]10990[/ATTACH]
After 10 hours and a Brillo pad.
[ATTACH]10991[/ATTACH]
As you can see, painting on rust remover isn't the most effective technique. At least not for this brand. Still, it has some effect. I'm sure a few more coats with the same process wouldn't hurt.
It's worth noting that the darker teeth at the top of the photo correspond with the teeth that DID NOT get soaked with penetrating oil to remove the saw arbor that the blade was stuck to. Moral of the story: penetrating oil will aid in rust removal.
Here's what the blade looks like after 15 minutes with a stout abrasive wheel on a drill motor. The darker area at the top is simply a function of sheen.
[ATTACH]10992[/ATTACH]
Moral of the story: need more cow bell... err... soaking with rust remover. See Test #2 for "the rrrrest of the story."
I started with the combination saw blade I got from my dad. It's in rough shape. Lots of rust, pitting and rust buildup. I didn't want to pour the stuff into a container large enough to submerge the blade because that would use up the whole bottle. So I squirted the stuff on the blade and used a chip brush to spread it around in what I thought was a fairly thick coat.
Here's the blade before treatment. The darker areas are caused by penetrating oil from removing the saw arbor.
[ATTACH]10989[/ATTACH]
"Painting on" the Krud Kutter. Notice that surface tension tended to retract the rust remover from areas that weren't coated with penetrating oil (bottom right).
[ATTACH]10990[/ATTACH]
After 10 hours and a Brillo pad.
[ATTACH]10991[/ATTACH]
As you can see, painting on rust remover isn't the most effective technique. At least not for this brand. Still, it has some effect. I'm sure a few more coats with the same process wouldn't hurt.
It's worth noting that the darker teeth at the top of the photo correspond with the teeth that DID NOT get soaked with penetrating oil to remove the saw arbor that the blade was stuck to. Moral of the story: penetrating oil will aid in rust removal.
Here's what the blade looks like after 15 minutes with a stout abrasive wheel on a drill motor. The darker area at the top is simply a function of sheen.
[ATTACH]10992[/ATTACH]
Moral of the story: need more cow bell... err... soaking with rust remover. See Test #2 for "the rrrrest of the story."