1956 Mark V restoration

nuhobby · Post by **nuhobby** » Tue Nov 16, 2010 1:02 pm

Also, a new Tie Bar is p/n 50426401 at Shopsmith, also @ $15 range. Not sure they're in stock now, but you can call and check for sure. I've bought one in my past, fixing a busted Greenie....

russsaw · Post by **russsaw** » Wed Feb 16, 2011 7:13 pm

Things are starting to come along again with the Shopsmith restoration. I have take the Mark V apart and have an electrolosis bucket set up. I ordered some new paint and bought a bandsaw.

I am planning to rebuild the headstock in a week or two. I am wondering if I should just pre order new bearings and belts. Any thoughts? how hard is it to replace a quill bearing? I see them on ebay for about 12 bucks. Thanks out there

Russ

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Wed Feb 16, 2011 8:00 pm

What is your location? There may be one close to you.

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ddvann79 · Post by **ddvann79** » Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:44 pm

russsaw wrote:Things are starting to come along again with the Shopsmith restoration. I have take the Mark V apart and have an electrolosis bucket set up. I ordered some new paint and bought a bandsaw.

I am planning to rebuild the headstock in a week or two. I am wondering if I should just pre order new bearings and belts. Any thoughts? how hard is it to replace a quill bearing? I see them on ebay for about 12 bucks. Thanks out there

Russ

Russ,

You can get the quill bearing from SS for $5.00. You can gently persuade the old bearing off and the new one should slide on by hand without a press (at least mine did). All the other bearings require a puller and press to replace.

Definitely order bearings and belts from SS now so they'll be here when you need them. Since you have it apart and since your Greenie is 60 years old, they should be replaced. The beltsare as cheap from SS as you can get them on eBay. The help kit may also be worth looking into since it has the maintenance manual and assorted nuts, screws and washers that inevitably turn up missing. Here's the maintenance packet for the Gilmer system. It's taking orders from SS about a week or two for delivery.

Repair instructions

russsaw · Post by **russsaw** » Thu Feb 24, 2011 6:14 pm

I ordered the quill, motor, and drive bearings off the internet. I am wondering about the small looped bearing that goes on the end of the speed sheave. I am not sure about what I need to buy for it's replacement. my greenie is a 1956. I also have a new gilmer belt headed my way. I am going to wait to order an new idler shaft bearing until I test it as it is so expensive. I am hoping that it is still ok. I watched the entire Jacob Anderson rebuild video last night.

I am gonna see if I can't find someone with a hydrolycic bearing press. Currently I have the joiner in the electrolysis bath

russsaw · Post by **russsaw** » Thu Feb 24, 2011 6:25 pm

by the way, I am in California in the North Bay

russsaw · Post by **russsaw** » Thu Feb 24, 2011 7:57 pm

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 3D1&_rdc=1

Do I need this bearing? and if I do, what is the part # for it off the shopsmith website? I can't seem to find it. Thanks

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Thu Feb 24, 2011 8:08 pm

russsaw wrote:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 3D1&_rdc=1

Do I need this bearing? and if I do, what is the part # for it off the shopsmith website? I can't seem to find it. Thanks

It is for the Control sheave end. The button rides on the quadrant and the loop hooks over the quadrant. The Control Sheave button is only available from this company, not Shopsmith. I buy the buttons from them. I have been very happy with their products, service and speed of shipment.

michaeltoc · Post by **michaeltoc** » Thu Feb 24, 2011 8:26 pm

ddvann79 wrote: Dusty has told me on several occasions, "No Hammers."

But I was always taught that a good mechanic needs only two tools - a hammer and a bigger hammer

russsaw · Post by **russsaw** » Mon Feb 28, 2011 7:33 pm

Here's a few pictures of my electrolysis setup. The way tubes are now looking way better but they still don't shine like I would like them too despite my scotch pad and wet/dry sand paper. Any suggestions?