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table height tubes

Posted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 4:13 pm
by holsgo
Do any of you have any extra main tables (old 500 etc) that you have parted out or are considering? I'm looking for two table height tubes. I know that a rollpin has to be pushed out to get them out. I'm trying to make a special purpose table but I only have my existing. Of course I'll post the table once I get it done but it would be for a table that could raise and lower but it needs to fit flush with the top of the carriage.

Posted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 6:22 pm
by JPG
holsgo wrote:Do any of you have any extra main tables (old 500 etc) that you have parted out or are considering? I'm looking for two table height tubes. I know that a rollpin has to be pushed out to get them out. I'm trying to make a special purpose table but I only have my existing. Of course I'll post the table once I get it done but it would be for a table that could raise and lower but it needs to fit flush with the top of the carriage.

Are you familiar with the lathe duplicator 'table'?

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/latheduplicator.htm

My manual does not have current pn's. It will fit either 500 or 505-20, and cranks up/down and has a flat top.

Posted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 6:33 pm
by holsgo
That's on track for what I need. I saw a pic of the table and tubes. The price certainly would cut into my power pro budget.

Posted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 7:26 pm
by JPG
holsgo wrote:That's on track for what I need. I saw a pic of the table and tubes. The price certainly would cut into my power pro budget.
A call to cs may help. The tubes are intended to go into a socket with a set screw retaining it(it has a groove near the end). They would probably be cheaper than the whole table. You could also inquire re the bracket that the tubes go into that attaches to the table. My duplicator part numbers are 'obsolete'.

Posted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 8:01 pm
by holsgo
I got in touch with Bill M. He is going to check for me. Thanks for the duplicator idea. If all else fails I will fall back to cs and see what they have. I'm probably pushing the envelope with some of the designs I'm working on for this machine. Most of it inspired by never finding just what I need at any store. I can't count how many times I've said "Am I the only one who needs one of these?" as I pace Lowes.

Posted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 8:03 pm
by SDSSmith
holsgo wrote:I got in touch with Bill M. He is going to check for me. Thanks for the duplicator idea. If all else fails I will fall back to cs and see what they have. I'm probably pushing the envelope with some of the designs I'm working on for this machine. Most of it inspired by never finding just what I need at any store. I can't count how many times I've said "Am I the only one who needs one of these?" as I pace Lowes.
I may have a couple if Bill cannot help you out. Email me at address in signature.

Use 1 1/4" dowels and the table height as a clamp.

Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 1:30 am
by allsas
I made a couple of tables for the carriage from 1 1/1/4" turnings glued into plywood squares, The plywood square were screwed to MDF Table or a 1 x 4 for a thin movable base.

The 1 1/4" dowels will hold a position when the table height clamp is tightened. The disc sander was used to create a flat on the sides of the dowels to bypass the table height adjuster rack (gear).

The dowels for the 500 carriage must be custom fit to the carriage holes. The 510 - 520 carriage has more clamping range.

The plywood square was cut so that it fit in the recess below the carriage top. The mortise for the dowel was positioned by how the plywood square set in the recess and the hole was marked through the carriage. The resulting dowel / plywood squares were made in pairs for attaching to the Tables or boards used for the bases. My dowels were turned and they were about 5" long, too short for some high table applications, but adequate for an ad hoc lathe duplicator table.

Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 6:57 am
by holsgo
That's an interesting approach. I never even considered wood. Now that you've mentioned it it probably wouldn't work for what I'm thinking.
As I've moved along for the last 2-3 months I'm really trying to beef this up to mill brass and aluminium. The last time I built a Federal piece I needed to cover 2 exposed corners (I'd load a picture but my son stole the batteries for his xbox). These corners faced the room and in Federal style were to be brass. Of course, there's no product I could buy that matched what I needed.
Determined, I now am going to be able to make these things myself. So, that's the need for something quite sturdy if that makes sense.

Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 10:48 am
by JPG
allsas wrote:I made a couple of tables for the carriage from 1 1/1/4" turnings glued into plywood squares, The plywood square were screwed to MDF Table or a 1 x 4 for a thin movable base.

The 1 1/4" dowels will hold a position when the table height clamp is tightened. The disc sander was used to create a flat on the sides of the dowels to bypass the table height adjuster rack (gear).

The dowels for the 500 carriage must be custom fit to the carriage holes. The 510 - 520 carriage has more clamping range.

The plywood square was cut so that it fit in the recess below the carriage top. The mortise for the dowel was positioned by how the plywood square set in the recess and the hole was marked through the carriage. The resulting dowel / plywood squares were made in pairs for attaching to the Tables or boards used for the bases. My dowels were turned and they were about 5" long, too short for some high table applications, but adequate for an ad hoc lathe duplicator table.

Since the table height lock does not 'squeeze' the tubes, but rather clamps the shaft driving the pinion gears, I do not unnerstand how it would lock the wooden dowels having a flat that clears the gears.:confused: