Shopsmith Forums

In Sawdust Session 22 Nick shows how to remove the floating sheave spring using a board with a hole cut in it, but he uses rubber straps to compress the spring. The problem I was having was that bungees and rubber straps do not compress the spring enough. I still had to push down on the spring with one hand and try to remove the retaining clip with the other hand, which was too frustrating.

So I instead of using bungees and rubber straps I use ratchet straps. I put one board under the headstock and the board with the hole in it on top. I slid ratchet straps on both ends of the boards and then cranked down on the straps to compress the spring. I kept the top board as level as possible and adjusted it from time to time to keep the hole centered on the motor shaft. I compress the spring just enough to remove the retaining clip. Then I slowly released the ratchets to safely remove the spring.
Reinstallation is the reverse process.

Sincerely,

Ron309753

Thanks for that tip, Ron. When I saw how long that spring was when decompressed, I knew that this was a task I did not look forward to. I do not do well with springs and I can hardly ever find the parts that get scattered when I loose control.

I have fought with this spring in the past & it is a little scary. What is a Ratchet Strap?

stew wrote:I have fought with this spring in the past & it is a little scary. What is a Ratchet Strap?

I am thinking he is talking about the type of straps you use to tiedown loads. Most often found for strapping down vehicles, but also used for other stuff.

Its a great idea. The last time I did it I used my leg and my left armpit...then used my right hand on the spring clip. Not much fun, so I will definitely try this.

I use this 'tool' to depress the spring clip(newer variety).[ATTACH]11117[/ATTACH]
It is used in drill press mode. The shaft is inserted in the drill chuck and the notch on the end slips over the washer. The quill is used as a press to depress the washer and spring enough to allow removing the clip. The motor just sits on the table. The 'extra' notch in the side is left over from a previous task with that piece of steel.

And for the 'older' variety.
[ATTACH]11118[/ATTACH]
The socket(black oxide) is clamped in the chuck and the quill shaft is rotated to loosen/tighten the nut(it be left hand thread!). The motor is sitting on a board(s) raising it to quill height. The boards rest on the way tubes. I made a crude 'wrench' from a scrap and a couple of nails to hold the sheave(nails insert into sheave recesses). It has a hole in the center to allow slipping it over the shaft/spring etc. It can be seen(partially) in the background.

damagi wrote:I am thinking he is talking about the type of straps you use to tiedown loads. Most often found for strapping down vehicles, but also used for other stuff.

That's exactly what they are. They are not expensive. I should have mentioned that I use the ones without hooks. It's just a long red strap with a ratchet at one end.

Sincerely,

Ron309753