Measuring Runout

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charlese
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Post by charlese »

dusty[B wrote:...Is my perception correct?[/B] If it is not, that may explain why I don't understand runout numbers.

Jim in Tucson made the point that the blades and arbor must be clean. This causes me to think.....if there is a spot of paint on the blade, when I install it in the arbor it won't be perfectly perpendicular to the drive line...thus wobble, thus runout.

Am I getting this or no?
Dusty - I almost had this post sent this A.M. when my Internet connection went bonkers and I lost the post. I'll try again!

Yes, Your perception is right (or almost, as I understand it). Although I feel Ed covered it quite well, here's my take.

When I first came across the term "runout", it was referring to the possible wobble/wiggle in the shaft of a router. Too much runout and you either needed a new set of bearings, a new motor or a new router. Excessive runout here will produce a cut that is full of ridges and gouges. If such cuts are usable, they need much sanding. Half inch shafts give a stiffer router bit and less ridges in the finished work, but it cannot stop runout. As I understand it, the runout it is any motion of a spinning shaft that is perpendicular to the axis of the shaft itself. A quarter inch shaft bit used on a router may produce some vibration that will produce a rough cut, but that is not runout. If a half inch shaft bit smooths out the cut, there is no runout although "wobble" or vibration was seen from the smaller bit.

Runout on a table saw (sideways movement of the quill/arbor/that is perpendicular to the axis of the spinning arbor shaft) will give a wobble of the blade from side to side (as viewed from either the front or top of the spinning blade). I suppose if one puts a foreign object, such as a wedge, in the arbor before tightening this will produce blade wobble. I'm not sure one can call this runout in the true sense, but it will have the same effect.

I think all turning shafts have some amount of runout. Runout on a circle saw will always result in blade wobble. Most folks don't worry much about the small amount of acceptable runout on a circle saw the size of a table saw or hand held saw. The radius of the blade is small enough that the resulting small amount of wobble does not present a problem. The extra kerf produced by a little runout is not very detectable (if at all). I don't know what the acceptable runout is, (I have the feeling that Nick mentioned this in one of his posts) but feel if it becomes excessive the user will know it by sound and action of the saw. (see the next paragraph for effects of runout).

Excessive runout of a motor shaft and arbor on a large circle saw as used in a sawmill can, and has, caused problems. These blades usually cut a quarter inch kerf and as a log passes by the blade (or blade by the log) there is a large amount of pressure exerted on the front of the saw arbor. This can produce an effect similar to having a mis-aligned blade on a table saw as well as the other runout (wobble) forces. Chips fly, slabs fly, weird, screaming sounds happen and machinery can break. Similar things happen on smaller saws, but to a much smaller degree.

If we were to try to discuss the various vectors of force on a spinning saw blade we'd get lost in a hurry. There is at a minimum the circular torque force of the spinning arbor/blade - there is a possible left or right wobble force caused by off balance blades and wood grain - there are the forces of the wood being fed into the blade which pushes back the front of the blade and can induce other forces depending on wood grain and sharpness of the blade.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
ericolson
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Post by ericolson »

Dusty;

Do you see what your dial indicator has done to you?:) Waaaaayy too deep! I do my set-ups with a combo square and, when necessary, a level. To jump on the box with Ed; I've seen too many articles in the different woodrags (FWW, PW, WJ, Wood, etc.) that have people measuring tolerances to machinist standards and if you don't get your tool or machine that standard, then you just aren't a woodworker!! At least not one of the elites, Heaven forbid! I think folks have forgotten that machinist tolerances are for steel. Now, steel (metal) does expand and contract, but nowhere near the amount wood does. I see absolutely no purpose trying to adjust tolerances to within .0001 when working with a material which expands and contracts with a minor variation in humidity levels. Again, I will go back to my argument that if furniture makers in the 1700's and 1800's could create masterpieces of art which are still in use today, using candles for light and all of the other "primitive" acoutrements of woodworking of their time, then dial indicators and .0001 tolerances really aren't all that necessary.
Eric
Rock Creek Designs


Win if you can, lose if you must, but always cheat!
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popstoyshop
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Runout-runout-runout

Post by popstoyshop »

Amen Eric.

Like I said a few posts ago. When I checked out my club's dial gauge set-up kit one point the instructions made was "a human hair is about .003 in diameter.
To rephrase this it's close enough for government work.

Also as you pointed out it has little to do with measuring the blade. The more the distance from the arbor & toward the outside edge of the blade the more magnified the the error of measurement. This is due to the inclusion of blade flatness etc. It's all about the movement of the machine shaft itself.

Last after spending the 1/2 day monkeying around with the dial gauge I came to the same point you made. Plus or minus a 32nd. is about as good as it gets when working with wood.

Bill G.
One who works with his hands is a laborer.
One who works with his hands and his head is a craftsman.
One who works with his hands, his head and his heart is an artist.
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dusty
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Measuring Runout

Post by dusty »

If my work was accurate to 1/32", I'd be happy as a "pig in the wallow".

Since my tools are accurate to the thickness of a human hair, I guess the only one to credit with my misfits is me!

Thanks for the input, I do believe I now understand runout (as it applies to a TS) and the various factors that can cause excessive runout.

I am pleased to say that when I checked runout on each of my mounted saw blades, the greatest runout is .003. One was .005 but I relocated the blade on the arbor and it came in at .001. Incidently, that was a Shopsmith carbon combo.

Again, thanks for the help.

I hear that this subject or a kin to it was discussed on the first Hands Online Sawdust Session on Saturday. This session will be available for viewing online beginning sometime Monday. I don't know exactly where/how but I'll figure it out sometime Monday.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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