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I am starting my first project on my recent purchase of a 1954 greenie.
To use a 1x12 and make a 2' by 3' box basically to hang on the wall for a lightweight flatscreen to set on, I was going to use a box miter joint I believe.
First would you nail and glue (going to paint black)? Is that strong enough...
Second, I test ran a box miter on my saw and it left burt marks, but it is a new 60 tooth dewalt blade. Did I not move fast enough through?

mrhart wrote:I am starting my first project on my recent purchase of a 1954 greenie.
To use a 1x12 and make a 2' by 3' box basically to hang on the wall for a lightweight flatscreen to set on, I was going to use a box miter joint I believe.
First would you nail and glue (going to paint black)? Is that strong enough...
Second, I test ran a box miter on my saw and it left burt marks, but it is a new 60 tooth dewalt blade. Did I not move fast enough through?

Sorry mrhart, don't understand a 2ft. by 3ft box, hanging on a wall with a flatscreen sitting on it. Are you building a frame for the TV to sit in? Will not be able to answer questions about joinery.

Concerning your burning - After making sure your table and fence are parallel to the blade, you can dial down your saw speed to "lower "O". I am assuming your wood is pine or fir.

I too am not clear about a box miter joint or what exactly is being built, but I'll assume it's something like a drawer without a bottom that the TV will sit in. In that case, I wouldn't rely on mitering the corner joints and then gluing and nailing it together. There's no strength to speak of in a glued miter joint, and nails don't have the best holding power.

Were I doing something like this, and looking for a simple approach, I'd simply use butt joints reinforced with dowels cut from dowel rod. The sides would overlap the top and bottom of the frame and I'd drill holes through the sides and into the top/bottom. For 3/4" thick material, I'd use 3/8" dowels about 2" long, using four dowels per corner, applying glue to the joints as well as in the holes and to the dowels, and then clamping till dry. Screws instead of dowels might be an alternative. I'd also anchor the TV to the wall or frame (if it's securely anchored to the wall).

mrhart wrote:I am starting my first project on my recent purchase of a 1954 greenie.
To use a 1x12 and make a 2' by 3' box basically to hang on the wall for a lightweight flatscreen to set on, I was going to use a box miter joint I believe.
First would you nail and glue (going to paint black)? Is that strong enough...
Second, I test ran a box miter on my saw and it left burt marks, but it is a new 60 tooth dewalt blade. Did I not move fast enough through?

MRHART check the alignment of the blade to the groove in the table top. That might cause burning on the wood if missaligned.

I think that if you put a flat screen TV, even a lightweight one, on a 3’ 1x12 you will be asking for trouble.
I recommend you buy a wall hanging kit to securely attach the TV to the wall studs and then build a frame of ¾” stock to frame it. Since the frame will not be supporting any weight you could use normal miter joints, box joints, or some other decorative joint.

As for the burning, I assume the burning is happening when you are crosscutting. If that's the case I would check the alignment of the miter slot to the blade, and make sure the miter gauge is perpendicular to the blade.

Sincerely,

Ron309753

Ron309753 wrote:I think that if you put a flat screen TV, even a lightweight one, on a 3’ 1x12 you will be asking for trouble.
I recommend you buy a wall hanging kit to securely attach the TV to the wall studs and then build a frame of ¾” stock to frame it. Since the frame will not be supporting any weight you could use normal miter joints, box joints, or some other decorative joint.

As for the burning, I assume the burning is happening when you are crosscutting. If that's the case I would check the alignment of the miter slot to the blade, and make sure the miter gauge is perpendicular to the blade.

Sincerely,

Ron309753

Yes!
Say What???

JPG40504 wrote:Yes!
Say What???

Yeh. Make sure it isn't burning due to misalignment.

BigSky wrote:Yeh. Make sure it isn't burning due to misalignment.

If it IS necessary for the miter gauge be perpendicular to the slot, how come the miter gauge is adjustable, and the resultant cutting does not produce burning.

Only the slot(using the miter gauge) or fence(ripping) to blade will cause the 'burning' problem. The miter gauge angle is expected to vary.