Shopsmith Forums

I use knee switches on all of my stationary tools that I can adapt to the machine so I thought why not on the SS? This method also makes it much easier to remove the motor pan, just remove the drive belt from the motor and drop the whole thing just by removing 5 screws. No more scraped up hand from trying to reach through that ridiculous little hole under the nameplate.

Sorry the picture didn't make the trip. I guess I don't have it figured out yet.

I think I figured out the attachment thingy. I also cut off the webs beside the old switch hole and screwed on a metal tag from elswhere on the machine to cover the hole.

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DT aka Agent Orange is a POS
Liar Liar his wonky comb over is on fire

Yes I ground the ribs away with a die grinder. I buy the Switches at http://www.busybeetools.com and they ship to the U.S.

judaspre1982 wrote:I like the idea of a knee switch.
I also moved the switch on my Greenie to the motor pan.[ATTACH]11183[/ATTACH]

I find it easier to see when performing some sawing operations along with making it easier to drop the motor pan as you said.
Did you cut away the area around the old switch location to get the plate mounted flush?

Dave


PS--where did you get the knee switch?

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bestdust wrote:Yes I ground the ribs away with a die grinder. I buy the Switches at http://www.busybeetools.com and they ship to the U.S.

Great link. Looks like they might have the proper replacement switches for the standard safety switch on the newer Mark Vs as well. Very cool.

I like the placement of the switch down below as well. Easier to find, plus it will make dropping the motor that much easier since all the wiring is now only in the motor pan.

justdust

good idea and smart thinking.

thanks for the link

did the box fix the curve of the motor pan, or did you do some fancy grinder, it looks like a perfect fit.

thinking about doing that to my shorty, as the red button switch is acting strange at times.

Hi sorry I didn't get back sooner, I cooked the power supply in my computer. The electrical box that I used had four little ribs on the back, one on each corner which made it fit the curve perfectly. One thing about theses switches is they are not a standard size so I had to grind the inside a wee bit to make it fit.

Great idea, thanks for the post, and the link.