Shopsmith Forums

I got two Robert Sorby chisels for Christmas- a 1/2" bowl gouge and a 1/4" bowl gouge. I want to do some bowl turning and I think I need some sort of tool to remove the wood from the center of the bowl. What kind of chisel should I get? Is it a hollowing tool? Any suggestions for a complete set of bowl turning chisel
Also what are the specific uses for the bowl gouges that I do have? Are they used for rounding the outside of the bowl.

Sounds like you have all that is needed to make bowls. Just as the name implies a bowl gouge is for making the whole bowl. Make sure the gouges is really sharp before you attempt to use it. They are not sharp enough for use when new. I would also suggest that you take a bowl turning course or at least get someone to show you the proper use of the gouges or you will not be happy with the results. If you have a Woodcraft near by you might want to check to see when the next bowl turning class is available. I guarantee you will enjoy the experience much more after some training. Otherwise, it will be an exercise in frustration. There have been huge numbers of people give up on turning because they did not obtain proper training or at least get some hands on help.

Not knowing how much turning experience you have, either of the bowl gouges you have will work. I am attaching a link that has some useful information on bowl turning. I took a class at a woodcraft before I ever attempted to turn anything and can say that it was well worth it as I had no clue how to sharpen chisels, how to position them in relationship to the material, how to "ride the bevel" to keep from getting catches, which sometimes happen even when you are doing things right. I mount my rounded blank which I do on my band saw onto a talon chuck and turn the outside first then mount it to a tenon I cut into it while shaping the outside and proceed to hollow out the inside still using a bowl gouge. Sometimes I will followup with a scraper chisel if I didn't get the bowl smooth enough with the gouge and then sand the inside to my desired smoothness and then mounting the bowl in a jumbo jaws set that attach to my talon chuck to smooth and finish the outside. Other folks just use a faceplate to mount their blanks to, but I like the ease of using a chuck and the jumbo jaws. I also have the Universal Tool Rest setup which shopsmith sells and it makes the turning experience so much nicer and easier to maneuver. Hopefully I didn't totally confuse you. Below is the link that comes from a very useful turning website.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/turning/bwlbsics.html

I would add a suggestion to check out Neal Addy's website on getting started in woodturning:
http://www.nealaddy.org/node/39

I would also suggest going to the American Assoc of Woodturners website to find a local chapter. these clubs are a great resource for information and mentoring":
http://www.woodturner.org/community/chapters/

the Woodcraft stores and Rockler stores (among others) offer classes that include woodturning. they seem pricey, but I have almost always felt like I got my money's worth.

there are different versions of bowl gouges and each of them has a preferred sharpening technique. sharp is important. as with many things in life, these things look fairly obvious once we see them but can be very hard to communicate in type.

if you were to post links to the bowl gouges that you got (from any of the online sellers or Sorby itself), we could give you more specific answers about the 2 gouges that you got.
http://www.robert-sorby.co.uk/gouges.htm

iclark: Based on the link you posted, I have the Sorby 842LH 1/4" and 1/2" bowl gouges to answer your question. You and others have repeatedly mentioned keeping the gouges sharp. Question: Are the gouges sharp enough to use when new or do they need sharpening (vs. minor honing and touch up) before they are used for the first time? I have the SS sharpening jig (555204), is this adequate to get and maintain sharp lathe chisels?
Thank you for the wonderful links about turning. Very informative.

The sharpening jig will work fine for lathe chisels where the cutting edge is one continuous sweep or a straight edge, but not so with bowl gouges. For these gouges you need to do more that simply roll the gouge on the fixture or push the blade straight into the sanding disk. Bowl gouges can be done free hand or with a special jig. Here's one such jig -- http://lumberjocks.com/projects/22480 -- and you'll find others if you do a google search on "bowl gouge sharpening jig." Another google search for "youtube bowl gouge sharpening" will show you how to sharpen it.

Typically the gouges are ground but not sharp enough when you buy one. You can hone them with carborundum or arkansas stones, or use a fine grinding stone or strip sander. Lathe tools will last almost forever if you use the honing stones except when you damage the cutting edge such that it needs grinding. You can hold the chisel in one hand and work the edge with a small stone in the other. Grinding them is so much faster though.