Shopsmith Forums

The Academy article to which you referred mistakenly assumes, I assume, that there is no warp or twist to the broad side of the board. That most often is not the case.
Your first task is to flatten at least one side before you joint an edge. If you have a planer - which you do not list - you can build a sled to support the board on a twist/warp side so that the side being planed will be flat. Remember that the planer will force out some of the warp when going through the planer if you just run the bare board through. After planing the warp will still be apparent.
Remove from the sled and flatten the other side.
Then go to the jointer and table saw as suggested.
Forrest

Bob:

I work with a lot of rough sawn stock, some still has bark on the edges.

Take a long straightedge and draw a line down the board close to the edge. Then put a 5/8" wide blade in the bandsaw and saw down the edge. You will be amazed at how straight an edge you can cut, so straight in fact that you can usually go right to the jointer, skipping the saw.

I've done boards as long as 104" this way. For long boards it helps to have roller stands on both infeed and outfeed sides of the bandsaw table.

If there is twist in the board this can be addressed with a handplane, at least that's what I do.

I most certainly agree with Forrest! The tried and true method is to first flatten one face of the board.

Once that is done, edges, ends and the other face are squared to the first face. There are many alternative methods to use to get the edges and other face square. Hand planes and various machines are used according to the woodworkers preferences.

8iowa wrote:Bob:

I work with a lot of rough sawn stock, some still has bark on the edges.

Take a long straightedge and draw a line down the board close to the edge. Then put a 5/8" wide blade in the bandsaw and saw down the edge. You will be amazed at how straight an edge you can cut, so straight in fact that you can usually go right to the jointer, skipping the saw.

I've done boards as long as 104" this way. For long boards it helps to have roller stands on both infeed and outfeed sides of the bandsaw table.

If there is twist in the board this can be addressed with a handplane, at least that's what I do.

Good Advice!

Another thought is to use a straight edge and circular saw to cut a straight edge.

Then use the method 8iowa explains in https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=6970
post #3

You might be interested in this podcast about squaring lumber...

Podcast #17: 7 Steps to a Perfect Workpiece: Squaring Up Lumber

Bob,

I have been reading the PTWE book and on page 29, figure 2-50 they show a simple jig to cut boards with uneven edges. It seems to me once you get 1 straight edge, the others are simple. Hope this thought isn't too simplistic.

Jon

jon wrote:Bob,

I have been reading the PTWE book and on page 29, figure 2-50 they show a simple jig to cut boards with uneven edges. It seems to me once you get 1 straight edge, the others are simple. Hope this thought isn't too simplistic.

Jon

Just a little.

The faces(or at least one face) need to be done first. That gives you a large area surface to reference against the fence for edge jointing. If you first acquired one straight 'edge', that gives you a very narrow surface to reference against the fence for face dressing.

If you merely want the two edges to be (near)'parallel', you be correct.

George,
Thanks for that link. That was very helpful to a beginner who doesn't even have enough background to ask a decent question. This podcast are full of demonstrative info.