Shopsmith Forums

Hey everyone,

I've been using a shopsmith since I was a kid but I only recently acquired the mortising attachment. I tried to use it a couple times and I was only able to barely penetrate the wood- I got about a centimeter deep (at most) before it started to feel like I was going to break the handle right off the quill. I was at my friend's shop recently and he had a dedicated bench-top mortiser and I tried it out- I couldn't believe how easy it was to use. So I'm wondering if a) I might have doing something wrong or b) shopsmith is just not the way to go for mortising or c) if shopsmith sells a bigger quill handle that would give me more torque or d) if anyone has any other advice. Thanks!

If the square chisel is sharp, then here is a tip that Nick had on setting the mortising clearance. This should get you going.

Be sure to use the right bit. Those mortisers are great.

In addition to sharp chisels and bits, you'll need some serious support for the table on the shopsmith. A length of 4x4 from the floor to the bottom of the table directly under the workpiece and quill will do wonders.

Sharp chisel. Sharp bit. Sharp chisel. Sharp bit. Sharp.......

Thanks everyone. The chisel and bit were brand new, straight from Shopsmith directly, so I should be OK there, right? I do really like the idea of supporting the table though. I think that might have been the problem in fact. So everyone is happy enough with the quill handle for mortising then?

furniturebypete wrote:Thanks everyone. The chisel and bit were brand new, straight from Shopsmith directly, so I should be OK there, right? I do really like the idea of supporting the table though. I think that might have been the problem in fact. So everyone is happy enough with the quill handle for mortising then?

Unfortunately like lathe chisels nothing can be further from the truth.!!!:(

They do need to be sharpened prior to use. You can 'get by' on soft wood, but hardwoods require a very sharp chisel.

It is not the handle that causes 'problems', but the table deflection. The handle is quite capable of exerting more than enough force(the table deflection illustrates that!).

See my previous post!!!(#5)



P.S. This attachment is not one of a shopsmith's strong suit. It will get it done, but....

furniturebypete wrote:Thanks everyone. The chisel and bit were brand new, straight from Shopsmith directly, so I should be OK there, right? I do really like the idea of supporting the table though. I think that might have been the problem in fact. So everyone is happy enough with the quill handle for mortising then?

The quill handle is not a problem. Did you check the link Mikeg gave you? If you had I am guessing your problem would be solved...

Ten Cent Gauge

Another thing. Just because it is new doesn't mean it is sharp enough when it comes to chisels. The bits? Yes, but not the chisels.

Oops! I guess JPG is a tad quicker than me.

curiousgeorge wrote:The quill handle is not a problem. Did you check the link Mikeg gave you? If you had I am guessing your problem would be solved...

Ten Cent Gauge

Another thing. Just because it is new doesn't mean it is sharp enough when it comes to chisels. The bits? Yes, but not the chisels.

Oops! I guess JPG is a tad quicker than me.

The dime will not 'cure' a dull chisel. It does allow the chisel to work properly. The debris created by the chisel needs an exit path. The 10¢ gauge assures it.

Well I cannot watch videos at work, but I did watch that video some months ago, when I originally attempted to set up the mortiser. The dime trick is to have a dime's width space between the bit and the chisel, right? I did purchase a sharpening stone with my chisel and bit, but I'm not really sure how to go about using it- any advice? Also, even with the dime trick, I was hearing some unsavory sounds when I turned the shop smith on, like the bit was in some way making contact with the chisel. Is that normal, or should that have been a red flag that I was doing something wrong?