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have begun an overhaul of my 1955 Greenie, and I think I have found out why the speed control was hard to turn. Not only had the teeth inside the speed control knob been chewed off (sent yesterday to Don Horne for his $17.50 rebuild with steel teeth -- and thanks to BillMayo for letting us know about Don's ongoing eBay auction for this rebuild!), it looks like the teeth on the quadrant also are worn and chewed up.



another question -- the existing porkchop has a spring steel piece on the top, where the end of the idler shaft(?) rubs against it. Will the new one have that as well? I have seen pictures here of other quadrants that do not have that...seems like it would last longer than just the aluminum of the porkchop.



it's obvious from this picture that there is quite a bit of wear on this one, but it has held up very well.



(the machine screw and wrench are just there to hold the piece in place for the photo)

edited to add another question: how should the various parts of the speed control be lubed? Before I disassembled it, the outer (speed indicator) ring and the small gear wheel inside (77 and 93 on the diagram -- numbered but not named) were very hard to turn. Now that I have cleaned them up, the spin easily, but I wonder what I should do to keep them that way. Also, the shaft itself...goes thru a bronze bushing - how should that be lubed?

thanks...

This post might help.

My quadrant looked very much like that and after centering the worm screw with a bolt, nut and washers (as described in other post), it worked smoothly again. You may have to file down a little of the deformed teeth, but only in places that catch.

ddvann79 wrote:This post might help.

My quadrant looked very much like that and after centering the worm screw with a bolt, nut and washers (as described in other post), it worked smoothly again. You may have to file down a little of the deformed teeth, but only in places that catch.

I thought about trying that - since I'll need to get a new one anyway - but I am not sure there will be enuff tooth left after filing...especially if the pinion gear wants to ride in the same place. maybe your bolt and nut suggestion will help as well.

thanks, I'll try them both...

gilamonster wrote:I thought about trying that - since I'll need to get a new one anyway - but I am not sure there will be enuff tooth left after filing...especially if the pinion gear wants to ride in the same place. maybe your bolt and nut suggestion will help as well.

thanks, I'll try them both...

The worm gear should not want to ride in the same place, unless the alignment again gets altered.
However unless the cause of the mis-alignment is corrected a new porkchop will end up looking the same. The leg that has been bent by either turning to slow with out pulleys rotating or too aggressively turning with them rotating. The leg(s) must be formed to position the porkchop to the worm gear. I highly recommend Bill Mayo's solution.(the #10(3/16" cap screw and leg forming).

Keep in mind that when adjusting towards slow the porkchop is pressing against the control sheave and squeezing the drive belt. This squeezing pressure is relieved by the floating sheave opening to reestablish equilibrium.

Your porkchop looks severely deformed(not sure filing will leave enough tooth). I would practice with this one to get the legs back to normal, and replace with a new one then.

Where did you see porkchops without the steel face??? They should all have them.

Also the button in the center on the control sheave 'snout' should not be rotating against the face. It should only slide when changing porkchop position. Normal wear would be a shallow groove. The square loop spring is there to prevent it rotating.

Edit: For lubrication, I prefer graphite on porkchop face and quadrant gear, and stingey oiling the worm gear shaft/bushing. The pinion gear and ring gear = graphite also.

Edit2: Use star washers between bolt head/nut and outside of legs. Use small(thin) flat washers between porkchop and inside of legs. Position bolthead towards control sheave(may eliminate need to cut excess bolt length at nut end)(gotta get it into the headstock hole).

JPG40504 wrote:I highly recommend Bill Mayo's solution.(the #10(3/16" cap screw and leg forming).

can you point me to that thread? I can't seem to find anything on adjusting the legs...

Keep in mind that when adjusting towards slow the porkchop is pressing against the control sheave and squeezing the drive belt. This squeezing pressure is relieved by the floating sheave opening to reestablish equilibrium.

Your porkchop looks severely deformed(not sure filing will leave enough tooth). I would practice with this one to get the legs back to normal, and replace with a new one then.

Where did you see porkchops without the steel face??? They should all have them.

I may have been mistaken...but I thought I saw one without a steel face on one of the long headstock-restoration threads. I remember thinking that there was a lot of wear on the one I saw...I also thought that perhaps they had changed it since mine was made in '55

Also the button in the center on the control sheave 'snout' should not be rotating against the face. It should only slide when changing porkchop position. Normal wear would be a shallow groove. The square loop spring is there to prevent it rotating.

Edit: For lubrication, I prefer graphite on porkchop face and quadrant gear, and stingey oiling the worm gear shaft/bushing. The pinion gear and ring gear = graphite also.

thanks... that's what I needed to know

Edit2: Use star washers between bolt head/nut and outside of legs. Use small(thin) flat washers between porkchop and inside of legs. Position bolthead towards control sheave(may eliminate need to cut excess bolt length at nut end)(gotta get it into the headstock hole).

I'll print this out to have it handy as I go forward...

thanks again

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=76971&postcount=10

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