Shopsmith Forums

I had the good fortune to acquire a second Mark V. This one has some rust damage which is fixable. The problem I'm having is that the floating sheave is jammed against the motor sheave and I cannot free it by hand.
The motor shaft is keyed all the way to the end of the shaft and the end of the key is visible about 1 and 1/4 inch from the end. Is that the proper distance or has the key shifted causing the problem.
I hesitate to remove the spring and try to disassemble the sheaves not knowing if there is an easier fix. Any help would be appreciated. I already have benefited greatly from some excellent posts in other areas during this restoration and thank those who have been so helpful. jmoser

jmoser wrote:I had the good fortune to acquire a second Mark V. This one has some rust damage which is fixable. The problem I'm having is that the floating sheave is jammed against the motor sheave and I cannot free it by hand.<<<<Any pressure must be applied equally from all sides or it may bind.
The motor shaft is keyed all the way to the end of the shaft and the end of the key is visible about 1 and 1/4 inch from the end.<<<<NORMAL Is that the proper distance or has the key shifted causing the problem.
I hesitate to remove the spring and try to disassemble the sheaves not knowing if there is an easier fix.<<<<Probably the best approach if you cannot get it sliding otherwise. Any help would be appreciated. I already have benefited greatly from some excellent posts in other areas during this restoration and thank those who have been so helpful. jmoser

Taking it apart will allow you to detect any 'hidden' issues!

Your best bet is to go ahead and break it down, check for burs on the sheaves, clean and lubricate well and then reassemble. If that doesn't fix it then start troubleshooting mechanical issues.

Removing the spring is not a big deal. Rather than using bungee cords or rubber straps to compress the spring I used ratching tie down straps. I suppose you could also use band clamps.
I put one board under the headstock and the board with the hole in it on top. I compessed the spring as much as possible by hand and then slid the straps on both ends of the boards and then cranked down on the straps to compress the spring. I kept the top board as level as possible and adjusted it from time to time to keep the hole centered on the motor shaft. I compress the spring just enough to remove the retaining clip. Then I slowly released the ratchets to safely remove the spring.
Reinstallation is the reverse process.

Sincerely,

Ron309753

Thanks for all the input regarding the stuck motor sheave. I used a hardwood board with a "horseshoe" cut out on one end to fit around the spring/washer. It worked fine and I was able to find and fix the problem. Actually it just needed cleaning and lubricating. Everything is back together and working properly. I would like to establish the correct rpm and adjust the speed dial. Using the method described in the sawdust sessions video on speed dial adjustment, the belt is about 1/4 inch from the outside edge of the sheave and it sounds like it is way too fast. The belt may very well be worn but looks in good shape. Is there a strobe light method of determining the rpm once and for all.
The restoration is going well and I am about finished with bandsaw. One last problem (I hope) is removing the rusty set screws from the the fence base. I have soaked them with liquid wrench but to no avail. Also heated them with a propane torch but still would not break loose. Has anybody tried freezing them with liquid nitrogen? Any ideas on this? Hope to hear from anyone that has had success with rusty bolts, etc. Thanks. jmoser P.S. Another solution would be to find a used rip fence base Part #501483 is not available from Shopsmith. Anyone with old parts laying around and would be willing to sell please let me know through this forum. Thank. jmoser